Setting myself up to do this right...

[jmrivera]

Also, did you happen to see my question above that asks what are the more specific differences between an S and SE model? Wondering if you could weigh in on that too. I thought S models had vinyl seats but then I am seeing some advertised with leather (?). Also, do S models come with 16" tires and SE's with 18". Looks like I can save money getting an S model but I am trying to understand all the goodies I will be giving up.

Thanks again! A.J.

Strange about the leather in the S model, according to the Land Rover brochure, and the S comes with 18's.

See below and/or go here for model information (click on the Discovery tab):

http://www.landroverusa.com/us/en/V...ed_Pre_Owned_Overview@__link__InfoBlockLink_6

 

[joey]

jmrivera, great info there... sorry it took so long to show, the forum software required a moderator to approve the post (helps keep spam down)

damnskippy, if you look in my signature line you will see a link to powerchip 91 Gold... click on it, it will provide you with a lot of info. Just make sure you order from someone other than powerchip, since you can get it cheaper... I found out after the fact that Nathan at Discount British Parts is an authorized reseller...

 

[damnskippy]

Jonathan, that is a great chart you found- very useful. Thanks for finding and posting it. How's that '03 working out for you so far? You got all the bells and whistles on that one, didn't you? I hope it's bringing you much joy!

Now, back to Joey, I still don't know what an ECU is (an emissions control unit??), let alone why I should plan on reprograming it. I read your posts regarding Powerchip. It appears your last posts on that subject were in February basically pertaining to savings on gas, are you still seeing benefits? Are you recommending to me I get my ECU (of course have to buy a vehicle first) reprogrammed because of the overt amount of mountain pass driving I will be doing so as to save gas or are there other benefits of reprogramming ECU as well? And if not Powerpoint to do it, who would do it? What exactly would I be asking them to do? Sorry for so many questions but I'm curious about this suggestion.

Thanks again you guys!!

 

[joey]

ECU = Engine Control Unit... it controls the fuel mapping for the engine as well as timing.

The rover is basically running in a rich state all the time, remapping the ECU will allow the engine to run better all the time, remember all vehicles are set up for emissions reasons, so they have to meet certain standards at an idle... the rover does this by running richer. This also causes it to use more fuel and not perform its best.

I am basically saying that I know in my case my Rover runs a lot better, and I am still averaging 15+ MPG in the city... not bad for 245/75/16 tires and a 300 lbs front bumper and almost 200 lbs of running boards and around 100 lbs of tools in the trunk....

So far I would recommend an ECU upgrade to anyone that owns a rover.

Powerchip is just one of the companies that does this, but for the money they are probably the cheapest... I know of a company in the UK, but cost is around $1500 US money, so I figured for the price I prefer the powerchip option.

 

[jmrivera]

ECU = Engine Control Unit... it controls the fuel mapping for the engine as well as timing.

The rover is basically running in a rich state all the time, remapping the ECU will allow the engine to run better all the time, remember all vehicles are set up for emissions reasons, so they have to meet certain standards at an idle... the rover does this by running richer. This also causes it to use more fuel and not perform its best.

I am basically saying that I know in my case my Rover runs a lot better, and I am still averaging 15+ MPG in the city... not bad for 245/75/16 tires and a 300 lbs front bumper and almost 200 lbs of running boards and around 100 lbs of tools in the trunk....

So far I would recommend an ECU upgrade to anyone that owns a rover.

Powerchip is just one of the companies that does this, but for the money they are probably the cheapest... I know of a company in the UK, but cost is around $1500 US money, so I figured for the price I prefer the powerchip option.

Joey,

Do you happen to know anyone that has done a ECU upgrade on the 4.6L engine? I checked out Powerchips' site and for $500 it can be done, but I am not sure if the 17hp and 21 ft-lbs. are worth it... What's you're opinion? Would I really feel (in terms of power) or see (in MPG) any difference without any other mods?

Thanks,
Jonathan

 

[joey]

Power wise I would say it is an expense upgrade for cost to HP ratio, but the fuel mapping does change the full range of the power curve, I know I see better idle and mid-range power. Not to mention the fuel economy...

They will tell you that you may not notice the fuel economy side, because most people that do this drive it like they stole it.... I on the other had prefer if I do have to drive long distance to average 20 mpg rather than notice the increase in power going up hills.

I know of a 1 or 2 people that has done the powerchip, I am pretty sure that Will Tillery at Roverguy.com did his 4.6, and was very please. He is also a reseller.

 

[MUDiscoveryII]

2) From reading through forums, I feel the more I pamper my 'lil Landy, the happier it will be so where can I learn to be hands on? I did think I could pay my trusty mechanic a few hours to show me some stuff. Changing break pads sounds like a daunting task to me, but maybe it isn't so hard, I can change tires easily enough and am a female willing to learn more.

Changing brake pads/rotors is a fairly easy task. There are plenty of good step-by-step directions on the web. I found some good ones at http://en.allexperts.com.

To save the $105 - 125/hr labor, I chose to replace my front rotors and pads, and hopefully do more work in the future as needed (dealer quoted me $628, and I spent $400 on parts with shipping). I just did my rear pads last night and it took about 30 minutes.

A couple of things you will need when you do the rotors that were not mentioned in the directions I found: a #4 phillips for the bolt securing the rotor to the drive flange (if you can't find one in stores, you might be able to grind down the tip of a #3), and depending on the age and mileage of the vehicle, some heat. I held a small butane torch over it to help loosen the bolt (no more than 250-300 degrees for 30 seconds to prevent damage to the bearings). The bolts are a softer metal (brass I believe) and can strip easily if you use a smaller phillips (they give you new ones with your rotors). The piston caliper tool required when installing the new pads can be purchased at Sears, or another store, for $20.

Good luck with your endeavors.

Michael