Wife driving the disco II and notice it was sputtering as she was driving like it was trying to shut off. She said she noticed that the temp gauge rose to the line beneath the overheat. She parked the disco. What gives?? I had the head gasket and water pump changed in july. its a 2000 disco II with 108,000 miles. I havent gotten to it yet but what could it be?? A friend stated to check the belt, maybe its shot. He drove the car a week ago and thought he heard a squeal sound when he started it. I did notice the night before that when I strted it it idled rough, I assumed it was cold. I went to get gas. Turned off the disco, pumped the gas, strted it again and again ran rough with the engine light blinking.
sputtering/temp gauge rising
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Fuel pump....?
okay the saga continues, got over to the disco, added antifreeze, the 2ndary tank was near bone dry. Which is weird cause I added fluid not more than 3 weeks ago. I let the disco run for a while to get to to normal temp. Things looked good. Oil on dipstick looked fine. So I got in and drove, initially same power loss or serious hesitation on exceleration. After coming from a stop. I then noticed alot of smoke coming out the tail pipe. Same weird idle, then the temp gauge starts creeping to the red. I got it to my mechanic before it redlined. Opened the hood, again antifreeze tank appeared empty. There also was a weird smell, not anti freeze, but like a burning maybe, oil, I can really descibe it. Also, I was running the heater to deal with the rising tempand low and behold I was getting no heat just cool air. I am calling the mechanic today. I spoke with a nother mechanic and site unseen he said it sounded like the head again?? Dang that means I'll be rolling the lumina for a while until I can bring the disco back to life. Me in a chevy. Well absence makes the heart grow fonder. If you guys and gals have any insight let me know. I will keep you updated on the saga. Never know when your story matches someone elses.
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Chongo
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Dropped liner ?
Sounds to me like a poor headgasket job or dropped liner. What do you think Joey ? might want to perform a cylinder leak down test. In any sense, the coolant system has to be sealed internally and externally or the coolant cannot perform it's job.
Chongo
Sounds to me like a poor headgasket job or dropped liner. What do you think Joey ? might want to perform a cylinder leak down test. In any sense, the coolant system has to be sealed internally and externally or the coolant cannot perform it's job.
Chongo
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I will agree with chongo on this... he knows more about the engine internals then I do.....
Hi
If the head bolts were not replaced the last time that would be your problem. they are stretch bolts and must be replaced each time at approximately $ 100.00 a set. Also reface the heads they warp. Just went through this two months ago in a D1. I had up to .010 warp. You will have some coolant in your oil,Change it and again in 500 or so miles. (OMO)
If the head bolts were not replaced the last time that would be your problem. they are stretch bolts and must be replaced each time at approximately $ 100.00 a set. Also reface the heads they warp. Just went through this two months ago in a D1. I had up to .010 warp. You will have some coolant in your oil,Change it and again in 500 or so miles. (OMO)
Chongo
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Not using new head bolts could very well be the problem, and if this is true you certainly have some issues with your mechanic. and yes the blocks warp too, when overheated, and so do the liners, "sleeves"
Here's some old post of mine I copied and pasted for you.
Head gaskets :
I took a good look
how the head gasket is designed and it comes with a sticky adhesive on the
composite part of the gasket. This will work beautiful if both surfaces are left
perfectly dry, and free of oil, i.e. lacquer thinner. Use NO OIL PERIOD on the head bolts, You’ll regret it if you do. You see the oil you put on the threads, like the book tells us to, will push off the threads as you thread it into the threads of the block and it
gets between the block and head pushing into the gasket areas ruining the effects of
the adhesive on the gasket, Oil and adheasive isn't usually a good combination......
What I did and this works well, I put only 2 layers of Teflon Tape on the threads of the new head bolts and a small amount of grease just under The bolt head. What this does is not let the bolt head gall into the heads and lubes The threads into the block without any oil. I believe this is an area where a lot of people have got themselves into trouble, and they followed the book. This would probably cause gasket failure in a few thousand Miles or so, and would probably be blamed on the mechanic or machinist, when it is A procedure problem. Use the Teflon tape on the bolts, it runs in nicely and life Is good.
Remember, always use new bolts. Torque in the sequence the book tells you to follow at 15 ft lbs, then turn 90 degrees more repeating the same sequence, then an adittional 90 degrees more repeating the same sequence completes this task.
Always deck the block and heads.
An interesting concept in Land Rover design was when they decided to incorporate steel liners into the aluminum cylinder block without a lip on the top of the liner. By being machined in place with no lip on the top to decrease the possibility of liners slipping, these are straight sleeved liners. Being made of steel the expansion rate of steel is around 6 parts per million +/- while the expansion ratio of aluminum is around 13.1 parts per million +/-. In this formula the outer aluminum wall adjacent to the steel liner does not move at the same ratio. Depending on the finish on the outside of the liners, and the finish machine work in the block will decide the stability of the liners. The finer the finish the more stable the liner will be. Also the firm placement of the liner to bear against the main bearing bulkhead bottoms the liner out and secures it better.
When this engine needs a head gasket the best thing to do would be to deck the block and the heads. I know this requires a lot more work but this also explains a lot of trouble others have experienced with this engine due to the differences in materials.
When I rebuilt my wife’s engine I replaced the liners……….. About $80.00 per bore to eliminate the old liner and $90.00 per liner plus another $60.00 per liner to trim the bottom to fit and install. It costs around $1,900.00 just to change the liners. I feel it was worth every dime. No problems and we are getting around 16 m.p.g. we fitted the new steel liners and finnished the bore to use the old pistons that only had 29,000 miles on them. I know it’s expensive, but it is the ultimate cure for dissimilar materials in this environment.
Good luck.......Chongo
Here's some old post of mine I copied and pasted for you.
Head gaskets :
I took a good look
how the head gasket is designed and it comes with a sticky adhesive on the
composite part of the gasket. This will work beautiful if both surfaces are left
perfectly dry, and free of oil, i.e. lacquer thinner. Use NO OIL PERIOD on the head bolts, You’ll regret it if you do. You see the oil you put on the threads, like the book tells us to, will push off the threads as you thread it into the threads of the block and it
gets between the block and head pushing into the gasket areas ruining the effects of
the adhesive on the gasket, Oil and adheasive isn't usually a good combination......
What I did and this works well, I put only 2 layers of Teflon Tape on the threads of the new head bolts and a small amount of grease just under The bolt head. What this does is not let the bolt head gall into the heads and lubes The threads into the block without any oil. I believe this is an area where a lot of people have got themselves into trouble, and they followed the book. This would probably cause gasket failure in a few thousand Miles or so, and would probably be blamed on the mechanic or machinist, when it is A procedure problem. Use the Teflon tape on the bolts, it runs in nicely and life Is good.
Remember, always use new bolts. Torque in the sequence the book tells you to follow at 15 ft lbs, then turn 90 degrees more repeating the same sequence, then an adittional 90 degrees more repeating the same sequence completes this task.
Always deck the block and heads.
An interesting concept in Land Rover design was when they decided to incorporate steel liners into the aluminum cylinder block without a lip on the top of the liner. By being machined in place with no lip on the top to decrease the possibility of liners slipping, these are straight sleeved liners. Being made of steel the expansion rate of steel is around 6 parts per million +/- while the expansion ratio of aluminum is around 13.1 parts per million +/-. In this formula the outer aluminum wall adjacent to the steel liner does not move at the same ratio. Depending on the finish on the outside of the liners, and the finish machine work in the block will decide the stability of the liners. The finer the finish the more stable the liner will be. Also the firm placement of the liner to bear against the main bearing bulkhead bottoms the liner out and secures it better.
When this engine needs a head gasket the best thing to do would be to deck the block and the heads. I know this requires a lot more work but this also explains a lot of trouble others have experienced with this engine due to the differences in materials.
When I rebuilt my wife’s engine I replaced the liners……….. About $80.00 per bore to eliminate the old liner and $90.00 per liner plus another $60.00 per liner to trim the bottom to fit and install. It costs around $1,900.00 just to change the liners. I feel it was worth every dime. No problems and we are getting around 16 m.p.g. we fitted the new steel liners and finnished the bore to use the old pistons that only had 29,000 miles on them. I know it’s expensive, but it is the ultimate cure for dissimilar materials in this environment.
Good luck.......Chongo
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