sucking air between engine and transmission

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avslash

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edit. My previous answer was wrong. I thought it was blowing not sucking. A PCV releases pressure so it allows the system to "blow" if over pressured. Sucking? Not sure.

Did you mess with the heads? It sounds like an air leak between the valley and the intake (ie. bad intake gasket seal).

I thought this as well, but I'm looking at pictures of the block it does not appear a leak in the valley could make it's way to the bell housing unless there is vent or other pathway that is not apparent from pics.
 

ktm525

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Krill: If you loosen your oil fill while running are you getting excessive suction ?
 

Krill

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Krill: If you loosen your oil fill while running are you getting excessive suction ?
What is excessive suction? I’ll take a video in the morning if me opening the oil cap while it’s running. I agree sealing the hole is a pretty dumb idea....as is spending another 3500 to get a seal replaced:( that’s a good idea trying to get a camera in there to see the seal. As of now there is no oil leak. The only work I had done was the injectors so the head wasn’t messed with. Only thing that happend when the injector stuck open is after running the car for a few minutes. If you shut it off and tried to restart it 5 minutes later the #8 cylinder would be full of fuel and would hydrolock the motor( pulled spark plug and cylinder was full of fuel) no check engine codes( not even anything stored) it runs perfect while driving.
 

Krill

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One guy at the shop was talking about a “washed out cylinder” from the fuel being compressed past the rings but the owner of the shop said that would be a constant issue not just idling and create pressure in the crank case not suction( accompanied with check engine lights for sure) he said. Not sure how the vacuum system works but could the pump be screwed up some how
 

Krill

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Could it be a damaged intake valve and it’s sucking air through the rings creating suction in the crank case. Don’t even know if that would be possible.( doesn’t seem likely) it’s one of those nights you lay starring at the ceiling running any possible idea through your head and dreaming of selling a kidney and liver to pay for the repairs lol
 

avslash

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We know there is a separate vacuum pump on the engine, thus I'm assuming LR designed the 5.0 to operate with the crankcase under vacuum. I never heard of this before googling around for your issue, but it seems to be a well known engine strategy.

If that assumption is correct, then there must also be a corresponding air inlet to control the amount of vacuum present.

Logically, a clogged inlet would cause excessive vacuum. I'm guessing the rear main is the next easiest point for air to enter the crankcase.

This would also explain your lack of oil leakage. Under vacuum, oil is not going to be leaking past that seal. When vacuum is not present, seal is not deformed and is doing it's job and keeping oil in the case.

I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn last night, but if if my first assumption is correct and the 5.0 is a vacuum case engine, I would be poring over the service manual looking for something labelled crankcase inlet, breather, ventilation, etc, and investigating that.

You guys feel free to shoot holes in my theory, but obviously vacuum is getting to the bellhousing by some route.
 

avslash

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Removing the oil cap while engine is idling( cold start)

That seems consistent with my theory.

I'm guessing their is no suction present at the bell housing when you remove that cap?

Do you have access to a service manual? If not, I might have some time tomorrow to look through mine to see if I can guide you to a specific part.
 

djkaosone

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If you haven't figured out the idling issue yet and if you have the IIDTool BT, try to Clear Adaptation Values. It's on page 120 of the IIDTool guide. When cleared, it'll take about 100-200 miles before it relearns the proper values.

You can also plug in a regular ODBII scanner to check the ODBII Readiness Monitors to check the O2 sensor and Catalyst reading OK. If it reads INC (incomplete), then you'll need to drive it over 50 mph or over 2500 rpms for about 5 minutes after it warms up. My trick was to warm it up, park it in my driveway, jam the gas pedal at 2500 rpms, and wait till the OK readings to appear.

I had to do this after replacing the timing chains, all injectors, all coil packs, pcv valves, and walnut blasting the intake valves. My idle was funky and I also had to do a smog check, so clearing the adaptations and waiting for the O2 and Catalyst to register was key in my idling issue.
 

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