Voltmeter / USB charge port install

[manoftaste]

TCM and Mike, I am curious if there is any technical difference/benefit to doing what you guys did vs picking up something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/IZTOSS-Unive...rd_wg=3FZtu&psc=1&refRID=W9QWT8W6T6N3ABN1KE9Y

or:

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Tempera...rd_wg=jUs9v&psc=1&refRID=ABGK7CMS2G66692X4FY1

I am very much interested in purchasing something like above, for the thermometer aspect, have always been curious whats the cabin temp compared to outside when the air conditioning system is on.

Would I be hurting anything, vehicle' electronics, etc, by using any of the two above?

Also, did you guys go the surgery route for the fact that the thing sits flush and looks part of the console?

 

[TCM75]

If you don't mind, I'd like to drop a couple of pics here to show what I had to modify- it should save the folks with gear levers some time.

Thanks again,

Mike

Pfunk951, it looks great! I don't mind at all; it's all about the collaboration.

 

[TCM75]

Manoftaste, the short answer is "yes"; I wanted a clean and flush install. Protrusions, wires, and add-ons really irk me for some reason.

I'm with you on the temperature display. When I finished the install, I was thinking it would be perfect if I could find the same form-factor product as the USB/voltmeter with a temp display in place of the voltmeter to use in the opposite side. This way I could replace the dummy plug and have more "functionality". Part of me wonders if the voltmeter circuit could be easily replaced with a thermocouple chip and utilize the same display and housing...it may be worth another $15 to check it out.

Lastly, I don't see how either of the plug-in devices you listed would affect anything. It just consumes 12V power from the lighter socket which offers fused protection to your electronics system.

 

[Pfunk951]

Agreed, once the plug was installed it looked factory- which is what I wanted.. I love the way that it looks, except for the fact that I now know I need a new battery..! Both USBs fast charge my phone, so that extra 12v source is now a useful spot on the console.. I'll shoot up some pics tonight about the install..

Mike

 

[Pfunk951]

For the consoles with the shift knobs, there were a couple of challenges I found:

1. While sitting in the driver's seat, the location of the hole needs to move a little up and right. This is not a big deal, but necessary to clear the silver gear selector bezel:




Highlighed in red is where you want to remove the material until it fits:






2. As TCM75 pointed out, this plug attaches with a threaded bezel that screws on the back of the plug. In order for the plug to sit flat, this bezel needs to rest flat against the metal frame (not the plastic cover on top of it, see pic below). You need to open up the hole in that plastic cover larger than I have in the picture, when this is all re-assembled the bezel and plastic cover will be near flush..

3. The metal frame I was talking about? It's not flat- there is a bump in the metal that will interfere with the seating of the bezel. It needs to be Dremmeled to make sure the entire surface where the bezel sits is flat.


When TCM75 mentioned cutting apart the factory wire connector, he meant just that- there is no wire cutting/soldering/etc required for this job. The idea here is to keep cutting pieces away at the orange plastic connector sheath until the metal connectors come out- these will click right on to the new plug.

Bonus content for those with the shift lever: If your gear selector's flexible plastic cover is dirty, sticky, or doesn't operate smoothly, now is the perfect time to slide it out of the rails (it pops right out) and clean it up.. After dousing with Armor All I oiled the sides, it is much smoother now and is not coated with coffee slime and child filth anymore.



That's it- hope this helps and avoids a few headaches!

Mike

 

[BznLR4]

This is a very nice writeup and clean result - almost tempted me to do the same! However, after considering the work, I opted for a plug-in solution. I really only want to monitor voltage occasionally for diagnostic purposes (ie suspect battery is dying...), so got a plug-in module ReVIVE Dual USB with Voltmeter. It is working very well and looks pretty decent. Sure not quite as clean as the OP, but a lot less work to install!

BTW...turns out that battery was not happy with repeated short trips (up to 30 min, but rarely more). A $25 Battery Tender trickle charger for occasional overnight boost seems to have revived the battery.

 

[cperez]

BTW...turns out that battery was not happy with repeated short trips (up to 30 min, but rarely more). A $25 Battery Tender trickle charger for occasional overnight boost seems to have revived the battery.

Did you go with the Schumacher 1562A? My driving pattern is very similar to yours during most weeks. I am not crazy about the way the LR4's headlights dim very noticeably each time I start it in the garage. I bought this battery maintainer for my son's car while he's off to college but may put it on Rover duty for a few nights.

 

[BznLR4]

I'm using Battery Tender Junior, it is dinky but seems just fine for my purposes. I like that it is very compact and unobtrusive.

The Schumacher 1562A is a charger (vs just maintainer). I don't need to recharge, just topping off/maintaining.

I keep an AntiGravity XP-3 in my 2011 LR4 after several times being in trouble and needing a jump. Getting in & out repeatedly (camping, bike race, etc), lights drain the battery. 2015 Evoque seems to have a much smarter processor, it kills all interior lights when the battery is low. 2011 LR4 just keeps draining the battery until it won't start. On a camping trip this could be a real problem, hence the XP-3. I've used it a handful of times, both for the LR4 and for others - works great! Plus, it is convenient for charging electronics with the USP ports.

 

[cperez]

The Schumacher 1562A is a charger (vs just maintainer).

The Schumacher is both. It is labeled as a battery maintainer and after topping off a battery it goes into float mode to keep it topped off without damaging it. Works pretty well for a $22 gizmo.

I've heard a few reports about bulging with the AG XP booster batteries but I'm still considering getting one for the reasons you mentioned.

 

[Frank8]

The flush-mount installation is very slick, indeed and those terrific pictures/descriptions should make installation a breeze. However, being old and lazy, I bought

https://www.amazon.com/IZTOSS-Unive...rd_wg=3FZtu&psc=1&refRID=W9QWT8W6T6N3ABN1KE9Y

Although not as attractive as the flush installation it seems to work well.

Temp in in Celsius so I’m getting good at multiplying small numbers by 9/5!!

But how to interpret the volt reading?

When I’m driving I’ll see anywhere from 14 to 15+ volts, then idling 12.4 or so.

Can someone explain to this dotard what’s being read? Does any of this relate to battery or alternator health?

Thank you

Frank