Typically, LR has not been aggressive on leases (unlike BMW, who subsidizes their leases by setting artificially high residual values). To evaluate the lease you need to get a spreadsheet (I can send you mine, or there are plenty online) and plug in the price, term, payment, and residual to get the money factor (money factor x 24 equals interest rate). When I got my 2010 LR4, LR was offering 0.9% financing while leases had a money factor near 5%, so of course I financed it. A lease should be a touch more expensive because you own the option to put back the car to LR/Chase at the residual price, which could be higher than the actual market value. So, if you fit the profile of someone who might lease (drive about 10,000 - 15,000 miles a year, don't add a lot of mods, replace cars frequently etc.) it really comes down to crunching the numbers. Two last points - I always avoid putting down cash (cap reduction) at inception - if the car is totaled as you drive off the lot, the insurance pays off the lease, not the replacement value, so your cap cost reduction is lost. Lastly, the dealer can pad the money factor for additional profit, so you need to know the money factor from Chase (the residual is set by Chase and can not be changed). I have online sources to get the current month's bank money factor, if anyone needs them.
You are correct to say that a too low residual means you are paying too much for the car's depreciation during the lease. In that case, it makes sense to buy the car at the residual price and sell at the market price to recoup some of what you paid. The reason LR (and many other brands) leases have been expensive over the last few years is that the banks got killed before the financial crisis by setting residual values too high which led to losses when they had to buy back the cars at inflated prices. So, by setting really low residual values, they are trying to push you towards financing. I haven't checked financing and leasing terms lately, so please correct me if the relative value has changed.