Repeatable Vibration Issues

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Michael Gain

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2018
Posts
612
Reaction score
283
Location
Clarksville, TN
So, I am getting vibration in the steering wheel. Sometimes it starts around 30mph, but most certainly appears at 50mph and does not go away. If I put the transmission in neutral, the vibration stays--speed dependent and not RPM dependent. However, I do not feel it while accelerating. This did not happen before the two cylinder misfire caused by the injectors, but appeared after the injectors, ignition coils, and plugs were replaced. I did have to drive the vehicle home (about 12 miles) on the misfire, but I am not sure if that damaged something in the transaxle....I also replaced the supercharger snout and coupler, intake manifold and intercooler gaskets, and the rear cross-over pipe, but do not think that would be related.

I dropped it off at an indy last week. They kept it a couple of days but could not find an issue. I called a closer mechanic, but they (and I quote) stated, "We'll pass" and would not even look at it

The original indy checked for an exhaust manifold leak, checked the fan, and they checked all of the suspension components. They stated that all of that was good.

To date, I have replaced the rear drive shaft, the front UCA / LCA / Wheel bearings / sway bar bushings / sway bar end links / inner and outer tie rods. I have not touched the rear suspension, but did replace the rear diff pinion seal.

For the sake of sanity, the vehicle is aligned and the wheels were road force balanced, but that did not remove / change the vibration---it is a vibration, not a "shimmy". I plan to swap the stock wheels back on this weekend and see if the vibration stays or not.

Barring the wheels / tires this is what I am thinking:
-front drive shaft inbalance / worn
-engine / tranny mounts (sometimes lurches when put into drive)
-unbalanced front rotors (a lot of rust and rotor material fell out of the vanes when I "encouraged" the rotors to release from the wheel bearings

Some other thoughts:
- I had to put the tranny in neutral and move the transfer case output shaft to realign the rear drive shaft bolts-- for some reason the new driveshaft did not align
- I torqued the axle nut down with an impact wrench and then checked torque---if I over-torqued the axle nut, would that damage the wheel bearings?
- The shaft of the new, right-side upper ball joint did not seat all the way into the hub assembly and I elected to replace it, but the witness marks are not perfectly aligned when I pressed the new one in.

I am wracking my brain, but I am stumped. I appreciate all feedback!
 

ktm525

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2017
Posts
2,588
Reaction score
1,259
Location
alberta
Did the rotors and or the hub mounting surfaces get out of whack upon removal? I would check the hub and rotor run-out while mounted. First check the runout of the hub and if it looks good mount the rotor and check the run out again. I assume the hub and rotor mounting surfaces were cleaned before reassembly?
 

DaytonaRS7

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2020
Posts
589
Reaction score
304
Location
11743
my first guess wodl have been tire balancing. seems you checked that off the list with road force balance.

you also seem to be checking in all areas of the car. you cant determine the rough area of where its coming from? you've looked all the way form the cooling fan to the rear axle.

is the vibration heard, felt, or both?
Id recommend checking all heat shields. car resonance combined with wind could cuase a slightly loose heat shield to vibrate against its mounting point.
Check any other underbody panels/guards. make sure they are all tight.
long-shot, but also check the exterior A-pillar trim and windshield cowl. tape them down and test drive. see if it changes.
 

Michael Gain

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2018
Posts
612
Reaction score
283
Location
Clarksville, TN
I reused the rotors, but wheel bearings are brand new. Yes, sir! Cleaned and applied some antiseize. Good suggestion!

Did the rotors and or the hub mounting surfaces get out of whack upon removal? I would check the hub and rotor run-out while mounted. First check the runout of the hub and if it looks good mount the rotor and check the run out again. I assume the hub and rotor mounting surfaces were cleaned before reassembly?


I was just listing what has been done so far in the event someone smarter than me could point it out. I've narrowed it down the the front. It is felt in the steering wheel.

The cooling fan is just another issue lol. Well, at least for me. Indy says its normal...Last night (28 degrees) the car was idling and I turned the heat to max. I watched the temp gauge slowly descend... so now i need to check the thermostat---or it's the fan.




my first guess wodl have been tire balancing. seems you checked that off the list with road force balance.

you also seem to be checking in all areas of the car. you cant determine the rough area of where its coming from? you've looked all the way form the cooling fan to the rear axle.

is the vibration heard, felt, or both?
Id recommend checking all heat shields. car resonance combined with wind could cuase a slightly loose heat shield to vibrate against its mounting point.
Check any other underbody panels/guards. make sure they are all tight.
long-shot, but also check the exterior A-pillar trim and windshield cowl. tape them down and test drive. see if it changes.
 

jlglr4

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2019
Posts
932
Reaction score
477
Location
Northern California
Curious - you mention that the vibration goes away under acceleration. Is that true even with light acceleration, like just a little pedal to maintain speed, or only heavy acceleration (or both)?

Doesn’t seem like engine/tranny mount if it’s doing it while coasting in neutral.

With the other items ruled out, maybe front drive shafts/cv joints is the next logical thing. But I thought the drive shaft/cv would typically give more vibration under load rather than less. I suppose if its loose somehow, it might vibrate while coasting until a little load is put on it.
 

avslash

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2011
Posts
1,255
Reaction score
1,101
Location
The Lone Star State
Anybody mention tie rod ends yet?

When they go, you can feel it in the steering wheel.

They are another known failure point. Easy and relatively cheap fix, though.
 

Michael Gain

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2018
Posts
612
Reaction score
283
Location
Clarksville, TN
It goes away under heavy acceleration, but stays with maintenance throttle.

I think the mounts are just a separate issue (or maybe I am a hypochondriac when it comes this this truck)



Curious - you mention that the vibration goes away under acceleration. Is that true even with light acceleration, like just a little pedal to maintain speed, or only heavy acceleration (or both)?

Doesn’t seem like engine/tranny mount if it’s doing it while coasting in neutral.

With the other items ruled out, maybe front drive shafts/cv joints is the next logical thing. But I thought the drive shaft/cv would typically give more vibration under load rather than less. I suppose if its loose somehow, it might vibrate while coasting until a little load is put on it.
 

Michael Gain

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2018
Posts
612
Reaction score
283
Location
Clarksville, TN
Good thought, but already replaced lol. That doesn't rule out steering rack I guess.

Anybody mention tie rod ends yet?

When they go, you can feel it in the steering wheel.

They are another known failure point. Easy and relatively cheap fix, though.
 

Michael Gain

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2018
Posts
612
Reaction score
283
Location
Clarksville, TN
Finally was able to check some things:

- loosened and retightened rear driveshaft carrier bearing bracket to ensure alignment
- engine and transmission mounts are good (rubber is still pliable and stong)
- front driveshaft is tight with no play
- mounted, the cv axles are tight with no play

Tomorrow I plan on swapping the wheels out to the stock 19s. While the rear passenger side is off, I plan to pull the fender liner and trace what I think is rust forming under the paint. While the fronts are off, I will check the wheel bearings and rotors for run out, the axle nut torque, the inner and outer tie rods for play, and the splash shields for possible vibration at speed.

I will then test drive it with the stock wheels and see if the vibration is reduced.
 

gsxr

Full Access Member
Joined
May 8, 2017
Posts
719
Reaction score
315
Location
Idaho
Did you get the Road Force numbers when balanced? If the measured road force is too high, you'll get vibration. I think up to ~40 lbs is allowed for "light truck" tires, passenger car limit is 26 lbs RF. I like to see single digits or low teens on car tires.

But if the vibration really does go away when accelerating, that could be either steering/suspension play, or alignment. The vibration may also go away in a long sweeping turn as it would change the loading on the front tires.

You could also try swapping the tire front to rear, to rule out balance issues (assuming the rears are good). Edit - I see you are going to change to a different set of wheels/tires, that's even better.
 

Latest posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
36,222
Posts
217,570
Members
30,473
Latest member
OnoA
Top