18" Compomotive with BFG A/T KO

[eljefe]

SPINNERS!!! not that is ****! That is a $4000.00 upgrade

 

[mbw]

The load index rating on my goodyears are higher than the stock continental tires.

 

[TLB]

The loaId index rating on my goodyears are higher than the stock I said ontinental tires.

Still all this tire load nomenclature is confusing.
I thought that P metric SL was for 35 PSI and xl was for running higher pressure like recommended for our stock contis. My understanding was that in order to run this higher psi for heavy lr4 we need xl rated tire.
Check the link
http://m.worktruckonline.com/article/835/how-to-determine-tire-load-ratings

Like i said i am confused.

 

[Finlayforprez]

I got the center caps on, but actually wrapped a few of the teeth in electrical tape and they stay really firm with no spinning - worked awesome and I did match up the Land Rover logo with the Compmotive lettering. On the same topic, but related to Umberto's recent post about the MY2014, I really like the new black-design center caps with the green logo. I may order those (once they are out) and give them a try. I know some folks black out their Land Rover front and rear badges, but I like the green.

I also used my IIDTool to shut off the TPMS alert and it worked like a charm. I was surprised to see so many options in the CCF menu. They even have Canadian and Swedish DRL Disabled - I wonder if I enable it if the DRL would turn on - I seem to remember Umberto saying it would not a while back? I don't want DRL anyway. I do admit, the process was a bit scary as the truck automatically shuts off, then you hear clicking and writing to a disk, then it turns on automatically, and then it tells you please shut the engine off and restart. Once I did that it worked perfect. The only annoying thing is that you have to re-set the date, time, and temperature outside to F.

The only strange thing is that after I turned off the TPMS alert and filled up on gas, my "Distance to Empty" reading was 342 miles. I have never seen it that high since I've owned it. Could it be the new tires? Seems odd because I thought for sure I would lose distance/MPGs. I did have to drive about 75 miles last night and the distance seemed to minimize and gas gauge go down just fine - I was a little worried I did something during the CCF re-write. My odometer just ticked 3,000 miles. Anyone have any thoughts? What are you all seeing for "Distance to Empty"? When I gas up, since I am down about a 1/4 of a tank, I can judge the accuracy (roughly) by how much gas is going into the tank to see if maybe the "Distance to Empty" is weird. It seems fine, but weird I would get that jump in distance.

I do plan to get TPMS in the near future as it looks like the stock TPMS (at least on a 2013 with black-design package) do not seem to properly fit on the Compomotive wheels even with a new seal/o-ring/rebuild kit. At least LR4TQ and a few folks have confirmed the source from TPMS Direct do fit nicely. I am not in a major hurry to get them, but will turn on TPMS for the four tires and turn off TPMS for the spare all at once - so I limit messing with the CCF.

So far loving the new wheels/tires!!!

-David

 

[umbertob]

When you write the revised CCF with IIDTool, one of the things that reset (in addition to date, time and default temperature in Celsius) is the trip computer. All your "historical" fuel usage averages and trip computer info is zeroed out and the computer starts fresh with somewhat "optimistic" data for fuel usage, thus the 342 miles wishful estimated range. I am sure that range will slowly adjust as the car rakes up miles and calculates your actual fuel consumption based on your driving pattern. FWIW, when I fill up I usually get a range of 310-330 miles - not too far from yours, and fairly accurate for my 50/50 city/highway usage (I average about 15 mpg overall.)

As far as I know, both types of DRL can be enabled via IIDTool, regardless of market. It's US dealers that will often refuse to turn them on when requested to do so, since DRLs are not mandatory in the US.

Have you turned on the digital speedo?

PS: The TPMS sensors should fit on any wheel (except some aftermarket ones with oddly designed and positioned valve holes), they are a universal metal valve stem with a sensor attached to the inner part and they don't custom make sensors for specific wheels... Definitely odd that your tire shop couldn't get the original sensors to seal properly on the Comps after replacing the orings. The ones you purchase from tpmsdirect.com will look just like those mounted on your 19" stock wheels, good luck with those.

 

[Finlayforprez]

Thanks, Umberto!

That's great - I am glad the range is fine. As for the TPMS, I am going to double check (before I order the TPMS) with a more reputable tire shop that does a lot of installs. Sorry for confusing everyone, but I know LR4TQ could not get the stock TPMS to work, as my independent LR shop couldn't, but I need to try the bigger tire places that have the rebuild kits, etc. I'll keep you posted.

I just wrote HikeNBike about another issue, as I noticed after driving about 75-80 miles, there appears to be a loss of around 2 psi in some of the tires. I need to confirm this since I put air in it late last night and was in a hurry - so it may be just my error. I was thinking perhaps they need to use more rugged valve stems or something? I'm hoping the TPMS will solve this, if there is a little air loss.

I am also trying to figure out if I need to stick to the differing psi between front and back (36/42 stock). I went with 42/46 to try it out, but wondering if I can keep all four tires at the same psi or if there is reason the rears are higher.

As for the DRLS, I won't enable them because I don't want my low beams on all the time. Maybe if the DRLS were just the LED rings, but that's a little blingy for me.

I haven't seen the digital speedo? Do you re-write the CCF???

Thanks so much!!!!

 

[HikeNbike]

For the guys with upgraded wheels/tires. You can't just use the factory PSI call outs when you switch your wheels and or tires. The recommended psi settings you read on the door jam is for the factory wheels equipped with the factory tires. Your newer and larger tires are different. Under inflating your tires will damage the tire, reduce high/low speed traction, handling, economy, ect.... It also may be the reason you are loosing pressure.

In my scenario, 275/75R18, with comps, i run 42/42 for everyday driving, and up to 46/46 when on long distance road trips.

Look at your tires (Maximum PSI) its probably around 80-90 psi. I am NOT saying to go that high, they have the buffer equipped for a reason. But you may want to do as i did, contact BFG and give them your front and rear vehicle weights and your tire specs, and they can recommend an appropriate pressure.

Hope this helps.....

 

[Finlayforprez]

For the guys with upgraded wheels/tires. You can't just use the factory PSI call outs when you switch your wheels and or tires. The recommended psi settings you read on the door jam is for the factory wheels equipped with the factory tires. Your newer and larger tires are different. Under inflating your tires will damage the tire, reduce high/low speed traction, handling, economy, ect.... It also may be the reason you are loosing pressure.

In my scenario, 275/75R18, with comps, i run 42/42 for everyday driving, and up to 46/46 when on long distance road trips.

Look at your tires (Maximum PSI) its probably around 80-90 psi. I am NOT saying to go that high, they have the buffer equipped for a reason. But you may want to do as i did, contact BFG and give them your front and rear vehicle weights and your tire specs, and they can recommend an appropriate pressure.

Hope this helps.....

Thank you SO much - this helps more than you can imagine!

I also saw your *** - thanks. Will write you back there and let you know how things are going. Took your advice and seem to be great (no loss of air).

I will contact BFG tomorrow to see if they can recommend an appropriate pressure, but 42/42 seemed to work well.

I appreciate all your help!

Regards, David

 

[Kaaae]

interesting tidbit for those with larger tires, I went to install my hitch to pull my trailer and it would not fit with the full sized spare in place. I had to remove my spare to insert the hitch receiver.... That rear bumper with tire mount is getting higher on my priority list!!!

 

[Finlayforprez]

interesting tidbit for those with larger tires, I went to install my hitch to pull my trailer and it would not fit with the full sized spare in place. I had to remove my spare to insert the hitch receiver.... That rear bumper with tire mount is getting higher on my priority list!!!

Keep us posted about your progress. I am not going to be storing my spare under the truck - more likely on the roof (for now).