Jimmy Brooks
Full Access Member
That’s interesting and i thought it only had 14 too, Ill take a picture later when I’m home but in the 2013 LR4 catalog it calmed it had an 825w 17 speaker Logic7 system.
2012 LR4 HSE Speaker Upgrade
- Thread starter JangoSW
- Start date
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Tapps33
Full Access Member
Eh, it’s probably something silly like LR “upgraded” 3 of the speakers to 2 way speakers or something like that. That probably wouldn’t be apparent in the manuals. I dunno....
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Jimmy Brooks
Full Access Member
Turns out that they did indeed make the car a 17 speaker system. After looking further into the deal I figured out that the front center speaker as well as the 2 mid speakers in the cargo area were converted into tweeters plus mids. As for all the other ones due to the significance power increase you can tell that they redid all the mids, tweeters, bass, and the sub. As you can see in the pic down below it’s much different then the speakers in the 10-11 Logic7.
Jimmy Brooks
Full Access Member
Now that i see I could pick up the whole system with speakers and everything for about the same price as putting a sub in the back I’m really considering doing the upgrade instead of doing the sub. My main goal was to add more bass for the back seat/second row passengers as well as more for myself but seeing this system for about the same makes me thing I could do a lot more for about the same price. My only worry about not putting a sub back there is that the bass problem won’t be fixed. What do you think I should do.
Tapps33
Full Access Member
I don’t know what to tell you. Truthfully, I would do it all, but that’s just me....and I’d build it better!
The book says the system is pushing 50 watts per channel, but it doesn’t specify whether it’s RMS or not. My guess is that it’s peak power which means you’re really closer to about 20-25 watts RMS, which, if you want to use the stock amp limits your ability to swap aftermarket speakers in....which is what I’d prefer to do. I built a JL audio system for my truck that was only a 10 speaker system, but it was amazing to listen to! That said, there’s something about the whole plug and play ease of installation by going with the Rover system....[emoji848]
The big question is, where can you get the entire set of speakers and amp from? (For a 2012 or greater my) Just curious as it might be worth the effort, especially if I dynamat the doors while I’m in there!
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The book says the system is pushing 50 watts per channel, but it doesn’t specify whether it’s RMS or not. My guess is that it’s peak power which means you’re really closer to about 20-25 watts RMS, which, if you want to use the stock amp limits your ability to swap aftermarket speakers in....which is what I’d prefer to do. I built a JL audio system for my truck that was only a 10 speaker system, but it was amazing to listen to! That said, there’s something about the whole plug and play ease of installation by going with the Rover system....[emoji848]
The big question is, where can you get the entire set of speakers and amp from? (For a 2012 or greater my) Just curious as it might be worth the effort, especially if I dynamat the doors while I’m in there!
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Jimmy Brooks
Full Access Member
I agree. I would definitely have bought the set up and done all of it.... if I had the money to. Because I want to buy 18’ rims with 265/65/18 ridge grapplers and rock sliders plus put the oem black grills on my car to compete the black package I’m a bit short on the money to make my car a studio. The link to an aftermarket stereo system is actually a brilliant idea. If I had the money I’d but some mid speakers in the roof as well as a 1000w with 2 subs one under each of the front seats and I’d be set for life. But since I’m not that rich I’m afraid that I couldn’t do that all. My budget is pretty small at $1,000 for a sub installation. The sub package I’m Thinking of getting is a “300w bass package” Link: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_700BPKJL3/JL-Audio-300-Watt-Bass-Package.html
I plan to Dynamite all the doors as well as route the sub to already existing sub in the back and just magnify the volume so there’s more bass in the second row as well as a little more up in the front. There was an LR3 Form where someone did this I’ll show pic of it so you can see where I’ll put it and everything. Now my only fear is that there won’t be enough bass for me. Do you think 300 watts is enough???
I plan to Dynamite all the doors as well as route the sub to already existing sub in the back and just magnify the volume so there’s more bass in the second row as well as a little more up in the front. There was an LR3 Form where someone did this I’ll show pic of it so you can see where I’ll put it and everything. Now my only fear is that there won’t be enough bass for me. Do you think 300 watts is enough???
Jimmy Brooks
Full Access Member
Here is what he said prior to all of that
Tapps33
Full Access Member
Truthfully, whether or not 300 watts is enough all depends.
300 watts RMS to a speaker designed to handle that amount of power will sound quite nice.
As an example, I ran a JL Audio 900HD amp in my truck, and that pushed 500 watts RMS to my sub, which was 2 10” JL audio woofers, rated at 300 watts RMS each....and it sounded amazing! Actually, I had to keep it turned down as it would get a little obnoxious after a long day in the truck.
That said, the truck’s cab is much smaller...but I was blasting straight up instead of straight forward like in the Rover.
Personally, if I’m running a single sub, I’ll run a 400 RMS amp to a single 10 in the tailgate, and I think that should be plenty of bass.
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300 watts RMS to a speaker designed to handle that amount of power will sound quite nice.
As an example, I ran a JL Audio 900HD amp in my truck, and that pushed 500 watts RMS to my sub, which was 2 10” JL audio woofers, rated at 300 watts RMS each....and it sounded amazing! Actually, I had to keep it turned down as it would get a little obnoxious after a long day in the truck.
That said, the truck’s cab is much smaller...but I was blasting straight up instead of straight forward like in the Rover.
Personally, if I’m running a single sub, I’ll run a 400 RMS amp to a single 10 in the tailgate, and I think that should be plenty of bass.
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Jimmy Brooks
Full Access Member
Ok, I can tell you know a lot more about matching amps to subs. So this is the point where I turn to you. I’ll send you the stats on the amp and the sub and could you tell me if you think it would or wouldn’t be a good match because I want to make sure I’m satisfied before I dump $1000 into a project that could make me as ****** as I would have been happy if it worked properly haha.
here are the pics
here are the pics
Tapps33
Full Access Member
That setup look pretty good! I also liked the pics of the installed version. I unfortunately have too many kids and too much junk that gets thrown in the back...so even though there are some sound quality issues with the tailgate sub box, in my case I think the whole system will survive longer if it’s hidden! [emoji6]
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