2012 LR4 with Early AMK Compressor Failure

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

jwest

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Posts
2,041
Reaction score
409
Location
Seattle WA
Your whining sound could be your alternator.

or just complaining too much LOL

I know my lr3 is on a 2nd compressor that was new probably around 75k now at 150k.

Keep in mind people, new compressor can also require programming to chat w the car properly.
 

jwest

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Posts
2,041
Reaction score
409
Location
Seattle WA
How many miles on your rig?

This is just one more reason running lifted on rods all the time is a poor choice. Not that he was doing this, but so many people want to ride around town and everywhere paved while 'lifted' via rods or iidtool which is 100% silly. Using the strut spacers is a PITA to set up but then the air struts are not extended at all and the compressor does not more work than in stock form.

Strut spacers create a 2" lift while also allowing 100% safe use of a 33-34" tire which of course also creates increased ground clearance. The net clearance increase is 2" + tire radius increase. Stock to 34" tire means 4" increase in ground clearance ! On the tires I use the most, a 32", the net is 3" which is kind of crazy considering the strut is at factory length, not overextended, not overworking the compressor.

In fact, off road you don't need to be in suspension raise mode as often, thus the compressor works less then than a stock vehicle!
 

gypsy

Active Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2015
Posts
33
Reaction score
10
This is just one more reason running lifted on rods all the time is a poor choice. Not that he was doing this, but so many people want to ride around town and everywhere paved while 'lifted' via rods or iidtool which is 100% silly. Using the strut spacers is a PITA to set up but then the air struts are not extended at all and the compressor does not more work than in stock form.

Strut spacers create a 2" lift while also allowing 100% safe use of a 33-34" tire which of course also creates increased ground clearance. The net clearance increase is 2" + tire radius increase. Stock to 34" tire means 4" increase in ground clearance ! On the tires I use the most, a 32", the net is 3" which is kind of crazy considering the strut is at factory length, not overextended, not overworking the compressor.

In fact, off road you don't need to be in suspension raise mode as often, thus the compressor works less then than a stock vehicle!

So what is considered best practise by your consideration?

IID tool and use lift mechanism when actually needed?
 

ryanjl

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2015
Posts
3,031
Reaction score
1,802
Location
KCMO
So what is considered best practise by your consideration?

IID tool and use lift mechanism when actually needed?

Just keep it at the stock height and lift it when you need to. The first tire-size limitations you reach on an LR4 don't have much to do with the ride height, so, unless you're prepared to make a lot of modifications to fit a tire bigger than a 265/65/18, just keeping the ride height stock is the best bet.
 

Graeham B

Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2019
Posts
10
Reaction score
8
Location
Atlanta, GA
So not to sounds like a total new person, I just got my 2011 out of the shop for a several thousand $$ (new radiator, tires, oil change, rear brakes) and saw a few videos on youtube that this doesn't look to complicated. My only worry is about buying the wrong one (I'm assuming some kind of aftermarket might be better than the Hitachi) and when installing it the quick connect tubes breaking (having flashbacks to an fridge that seemed to spring a new leak every time I replaced a valve). The shop I go to quoted $1200 for a new one, is that high or can I get it done myself cheaper?
 

ryanjl

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2015
Posts
3,031
Reaction score
1,802
Location
KCMO
You can do it yourself for a lot cheaper.

The caveat is that you want an AMK compressor. If your LR4 has the Hitachi, you'll have to reprogram it to run the AMK. If you have the GAP Diagnostic iiD tool, you can do it. If you don't have the GAP tool, adding the cost of it on top of the compressor gets you close to $1200, but the GAP tool is just about a must-have for a Land Rover owner, and will continue to pay many dividends on down the road.

AMK compressor:

https://www.roverparts.com/Parts/LR078650

Some people like the Arnott unit:

https://www.amazon.com/Arnott-P-2645-AMK-Suspension-Compressor/dp/B00PCQYMTW
 

horns

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2011
Posts
57
Reaction score
20
Going from Hitachi to Hitachi on 2012. Is this an easy swap I can do in the driveway without any special tools? thanks.
 

ryanjl

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2015
Posts
3,031
Reaction score
1,802
Location
KCMO
There are lots of videos online. It's the same as an LR3 or RRS.
 

ktm525

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2017
Posts
2,618
Reaction score
1,279
Location
alberta
There is one PIA bolt but yes doable on a driveway. An assortment of extensions/wobbles will help. I as still on my original Hitachi (2010). Were the original Hitachis so bad after all? I will go Hitachi again if and when this one fails.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
36,254
Posts
217,947
Members
30,493
Latest member
A562NV
Top