5.0 supercharged into an LR4?

Hermes

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Ok, finally got back today to do my oil change and mess with the many still unresolved issues it has (coolant leak, need to bleed the system, multiple faults etc) but want any input on a particular issue I've run into: Whenever I try to start it, it takes 3-5 times of pushing the start, holding the brake down and 30-45 seconds of it turning over before it either starts and then idles fine OR dies and I start the starting procedures again. I know this is a completely new area as a SC in a LR4 hasn't been done before, but what could be causing such issues with start up? When I brought the car in for the swap it had all the SC modules and ECU from a RRS in it but the original NA engine with both a headgasket leak and misfires yet it never struggled like this is to start, it just idled horribly while this SC engine struggles to start but idles fine once it actually starts. To add, when it starts I usually have to rev it once to get it going and idling well.

Any input would be appreciated.
 

jlglr4

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Since it’s idling fine once it starts, I’d be thinking fuel delivery first. Could be a weak fuel pump (either hp or lp) taking too long to pressurize. I assume when you turn the ignition on, you can hear the lp fuel pump pressurize. You could try turning the ignition on and off several times before starting to see if that helps. If it does help, possibly a lp fuel pump or fuel filter issue. Not sure how to diagnose the hp pump besides looking at fuel rail pressure.

Could be leaking injectors (flooding while it sits - but that would not persist if you start several times in a row). Can you see any black smoke on startup?

Could maybe be a bad maf causing wrong fuel mixture.

Might also try clearing any fuel adaptations that were in the engine previously. On cold start, you’ll be in open loop and using whatever stored standard fuel mixture values were in their previously - not sure if that’s a good or bad thing.

Could be throttle position sensor or coolant temp sensor.

Vacuum leak can cause a hard start problem, but I would expect a major vacuum leak to give a rough idle as well.

Could be a weak spark, but I assume you have new plugs - still maybe weak coil packs. Probably less likely.
 

Hermes

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Thank you all for the suggestions, I did end up figuring out the culprit tonight, a fuel line to a high pressure gas pump on the engine wasn't tightened properly and leaking. My guess is that caused both a lack of fuel and mix of air to go into the cylinders.

I apologize for the lack of updates, but @Tapps33 and I have been going back and forth troubleshooting and I would just like to do a shout out to all the amazing help and resources he's provided!

We have figured out that the driver and passenger door modules also need replaced, as they are vin coded and the doors will not lock without them. Although the original modules will get the engine running, all the other systems have errors. Other vin coded modules are the HVAC, suspension, transfer case, lighting, drivers seat modules, and transmission. Although not all of those may need replaced, they will throw some codes and I ended up getting most of them from my original KVM and ECU donor inorder to reduce fault codes to try and zero in on key issues.

I have figured out that with the Blackbox solutions Nanocom paired with the CCF editor on 100% toggle from the Genesis website, one can edit the CCF entirely to match the LR4, specifically the split tailgate and rear AC/Heating (if you have it) now works.

I do have some minor and major questions though, pulled from the most consistent error codes:

ECU: Engine Management
B10AC - Speed Control Switch, Bus signal/message failure. Alive/sequence counter is incorrect

I feel this one may be because I swapped out switch packs for a 2014+ LR4 version (mine is a 2012). Anyone that has experience with this let me know.

ECU: Automatic Gearbox
U0401 - Invalid data received from engine control modules/powertrain control module
U2101 - control module configuration incompatible

These both Tapps33 and I believe are due to the transmission mechatronic unit / valves being vin coded, there are posts as well as my own dealership saying used transmission cannot be just swapped. There is two options, either swap the mechatronics from the donor into the old transmission (which I have not done) or pull them out and there are business that will vin code them for you. I am wondering if there is any way to code the VIN in without having to pull the transmission pan out.
NOTE: Flashing a new file using the Nanocom does not work. It cannot change the vin on anything.

ECU: Ride Level
B1A84 - Vehicle configuration data, system programming failure - is not configured.

Despite swapping to the right vin coded suspension module, I still cannot get my suspension up. I also flashed older firmware into it incase it had been updated for an AMK compressor

ECU: Airbags/SRS
B0090 - left frontal restraints sensor, bus signal/message failure - invalid serial data received.

This is more a "my Rover" specific problem, but is this the impact sensors or something in the drivers seat I need to check?

ECU: Body Control
B112B - steering wheel module, bus signal/message failure - missing a message.

Possibly the steering wheel switch packs again?

ECU: Body Control
U025D - Lost communication with front controls interface module

Not sure if this refers to the console controls, as those are vin coded but not swapped

ECU: Transfer Case
U0415 - invalid data received from ABS control module

This confuses me and any help would be greatly appreciated as the ABS and transfer case modules are from the same donor but have code issues between them.

ECU: Keyless Start
U2100 - initial configuration is not complete

Not sure how to resolve this one as all key modules are replaced.


Finally, has anyone upgraded to aftermarket taillights, LED blinkers, or facelifted headlights before? I have B1247,B1248, C111A, C111B errors all for lights that I have replaced with LEDs and it reads "general electrical failure - circuit short to battery or open". Just want to confirm.
 

Tapps33

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Hey Guys! A couple updates on our progress. First, I finally received the jag motor and am in the process of tearing it down to get it to the the machine shop. More on that later.

Regarding the swap process. @Hermes is going to be offline for a while, so I'll fill you in with where he's at and what we've found.

As you can read from above, his engine is installed and running nicely. He had a few engine swap glitches to fix, aka some leaky fuel and coolant connections. Once he got this fixed, his engine starts and runs fine, no heating or starting issues anymore. However, from a software standpoint, we're still battling a few glitches. He's having some communications issues between all his modules. Now, @Hermes was able to source all the VIN coded modules from his donor car. (I am not so lucky). Even after he installed them, he's still having comms issues. Which, after a lot of research, I believe to be due to battery voltage issues. I ordered a battery sustainer to use with my swap to hopefully prevent this issue. (time will tell if the purchase was worth it).

With that said, one thing that we DON'T think was a battery level issue is the fact that the CJB/BCM/ECU is having trouble talking to the LR4 Transmission Control Module. Now, this particular module is located inside the transmission, and it is indeed locked to one VIN number. I do believe I've found someone who can "zeroize" the TCM so that it'll lock to the first VIN the BCM sends it. However, this will also require a TCM flash as well. (FYI, the listing is for BMW ZF transmissions, but according to the programmer it doesn't matter....my guess is that the coding language is common across all ZF transmissions...but I won't really know until I test it).


So, if you decide to do this swap, the easiest thing would be to add the mechatronic from the donor vehicle to the list of parts you purchase in order to make the swap. After I did A LOT of research on the differences in the transmissions, the only thing I could find was the mechatronic units were all slightly different. At the end of the day, a ZF6 is a ZF6. It doesn't matter whether it's in a BMW or a LR. (Yes, there are gearing differences, but the system is all the same, as well as the repair parts). HOWEVER!!!! When I was looking through the Genesis CCF editing/ECU flashing system for the Nanocom, and after talking with their tech support gurus, I discovered the only way to flash the TCM with the correct software load is to ensure the assembly number and hardware number match for that particular TCM. What does that mean? Simple, it means if you read the TCM on your LR4, or any LR/RR for that matter, you're going to find a hardware code and an assembly code. For the most part, the hardware code is the same between LR4's and RRS's. It's the assembly code that varies greatly. Through my research, I've found that only 4 different assembly/hardware codes are the same across the LR4 and RRS SC platforms (FYI, I didn't check the RRS NA platform). Those assembly codes are:
DH32-7Z369-SA
DH32-7Z369-SB
DH32-7Z369-TA
DH32-7Z369-TB

FYI, the Genesis download page looks like this:
You must be registered for see images attach


I entered my LR4's VIN, and it brings up all the available assembly and hardware code configurations (pictured above). Further, it highlights which one it thinks is yours. If you look up a RRS SC, it has significantly fewer combinations (4 pages vs 6):

You must be registered for see images attach


Back to what this all means. Well, if you're lucky enough to get one of the cross platform assembly numbers, in theory all you'll have to do is have your TCM zeroed so it'll accept the new RRS VIN and supercharged software load. (This is just a theory at this point as it's untested). If you're like me and I don't have a common assembly number, then you'll have to either purchase the mechatronic from the donor vehicle, this is the ideal situation as there's no need to do anything to the VIN, or get another transmission/mechatronic and zeroize it to work with the modules you do have.

Let me put one final disclaimer before someone tries this and then yells at me when it gets a little sideways. I have not yet tested most of these solutions. I will be testing the mechatronic zeroing theory as soon as I do my engine install (probably a month or two depending on how long it takes the machine shop to get it back to me). I know @Hermes has had success transplanting the donor's TCM. Unless I find someone with the common assembly number, I won't be able to verify that unless it too is tested. The theory is sound, but as we all know, sometimes practical application trumps theory!

That's all for now, I'll let you know as things develop!
 

f1racer328

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Exciting news!

If my engine ever goes boom I definitely plan on swapping a supercharged one in.

Wish you guys the best of luck trying to figure this out. Always looking forward to the next update.
 
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