Air suspension shock replacement

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ggrupea

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Hi, you can buy just the air spring (bag) or the suspension strut. In my case, I bought on ebay both front air spring and the change was very easy, there are some videos on youtube as guide.

about suspension strut, you can boy them alone. Here I attach some part numbers for you, I find them on atlantic british

Shock Assembly Front LH Or RH --> RSC500190
Front Air Spring --> LR016403
Rear Air Spring --> LR016411
 

Paul Albert

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3 months ago my 2008 LR3 4.4 V8 with 208K air Struts would bottom out. I replaced the rear control valve and corrected the problem.

Today with 115K The air struts bottom out again. I removed the fuses F 26 F3 and F35 And overnight all for air struts bottomed out. When I replace the fuses and started the engine the air struts immediately inflated.

The local LR shop told me that the drivers side air spring was leaking. I inflated all four air springs and sprayed them with soapy water and could not detect an air leak. Also when the fuses are pulled why would all four air struts bottom out?
while driving the suspension works fine.

Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated, thanks
 

Ruper

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Just finished replacing my struts. at $239/air bag and only another $50 or so I would get the struts and did. Only pain in the **** was putting the airlines back on in the limited space.
 

maxx4wd

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3 months ago my 2008 LR3 4.4 V8 with 208K air Struts would bottom out. I replaced the rear control valve and corrected the problem.

Today with 115K The air struts bottom out again. I removed the fuses F 26 F3 and F35 And overnight all for air struts bottomed out. When I replace the fuses and started the engine the air struts immediately inflated.

The local LR shop told me that the drivers side air spring was leaking. I inflated all four air springs and sprayed them with soapy water and could not detect an air leak. Also when the fuses are pulled why would all four air struts bottom out?
while driving the suspension works fine.

Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated, thanks


Sounds like an internal leak back into the tank - this is exactly what my front valve block was doing before I rebuilt it. since all 4 struts are losing air I'd check the center valve (which is also the easiest to fix / replace). britishpartsofutah sells an o-ring kit for like 30 bucks for all three air valves - hardest thing about it is taking the valves off and putting them back in (especially that rear one) but I'd highly suggest looking there first. Could also be the pressure release valve (also located on the central valve block).
 

Ruper

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Didn't read all of the threads but if suspecting a mechanical failure of a shock or shocks, Use the suspension height to go back and forth from access to off road a couple cycles, Then leave truck at rest at Normal height and pull #3 fuse, a 5 amp fuse in the engine bay fuse box. This fuse controls the self leveling which asleep system. Measure all corners from the cent of wheel hub to the fender flare, then let set 24-48 hours. Remeasure if one corner is lower then the others you found your issue, If front pair or rear pair are lower then either both rear or front leak, probability of two failing same time is unlikely, so Then I would check the rear or front valve if not previously rebuilt.
Use U tube and look at the videos from 4x4airseals, for rebuilding valves, if needed. Guy on there also shows how to do compressor rebuilds. Very good info.
Mine turned up right front when I suspected right rear. But since mine were OEM from 2005, I dug deep and replaced the three old ones as the left rear was replaced in August by a tire shop who poked a hole in it. No charge.
The issue is that sometime a small leak will be hidden due to pressure on the cuff from the shock. I had replaced my compressor there fore the system had deflated, then my leak became apparent/ I had washed a gallon or so soapy water all over the system prior to that to find a leak and it showed nothing.

So now I have a complete system back up once I rebuild my old air compressor exhaust valve seals. Saved the rear and left front shock for emergency spares, and also got valves, front back and rear, so I can switch those in a pinch and rebuild the old one as needed.
I hope I'm set on suspension failures for a while.

I went with Arnotts, Lifetime warranty, and have not heard my compressor even run for a while, which is weird but I guess the shocks with no leaks are staying at the correct height. Not sure why but I also gained one mpg on the highway as I have a 5 hour trip one way on weekends to get home, 5 hours back on Sunday night
 

Rover Runner

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I am looking for help choosing 2 rear air suspension shocks for a 2008 LR3

NEVER EVER USE <MAXSPEEDINGRODS> I was desperate and after checking prices and reviews, I went with them because of their factory warranty. They arrived and I had them professionally installed. Within 2 weeks, they were leaking. I contacted Maxspeedingrods and they said they'd send out replacements. THEY NEVER DID. After 2 more weeks I requested a refund and where to send the defective ones. They never replied. BAD COMPANY TO DEAL WITH.
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Ruper

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The center valve is the easiest to rebuild. Stay with Arnott or OEM shocks, "Buy once cray once". I would get the valve kit o rings and do all the valves, front and center anyway the rear can be a pain due to no room, but I did mine with minimum cursing. I had a front right leaking shock that wouldn't show with soapy water, but when I removed while jacking her up I heard a loud squeal as the air was pulled in thru the hole. none of the other shocks lost vacuum like that so it was definitely a shock in my case, They were the originals as the date was 2005. So it was past time for new ones.
 

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