Coil Springs for my LR4 in the future as it ages

[Jazzy]

I'm with jwest and avslash on this one...there are several youtube videos and forums w/pics on how to replace air struts if not experienced; this is what I relied on when installing spacers on air struts (to help drive or get off trail if air compressor goes belly up), pretty easy once you've done one. In addition to carrying an extra strut when hitting the trails, there's a lot of ways to fix a faulty strut on the trail, from IID tool to replacing it to, worst case, fix a flat, just browse the web.

I definitely understand the allure of coils as we all want to reduce liabilities on the trail, but of everything I've read its rare that a strut fails...I prepare for the catastrophic air fault and then I enjoy the trails much more. Not only is the air a better ride, but I think with the coils you only get 2" lift, whereas the different air suspension settings will give you greater total lift, as well as lift rods, spacers, and bigger tires

 

[avslash]

Interesting. Can you clarify for the uninitiated? I'm just now getting around to looking at the shop owners manual that runs almost 2000 pages, so I'm not completely familiar with changing out the air suspension. I will be soon tho.

The other guys covered most of what I would have said.

Basically I am referring to the fact that if an actual air spring rupture is a concern for your travels, you can carry 1 front and 1 rear spare air strut. With a minimum of tools, these can, and have been changed on the side of a trail. IME, a true physical rupture of an air bladder is unlikely. A failure of both front or both rear air bladders at the same time is something that I have never heard of.

Every other possible air suspension failure mode can be temporarily cured trailside by the use of something similar to the GOE Emergency Air Kit. This modification allows you to use an alternate air source to individually and independently inflate an air strut in the event of a system failure that would otherwise have it on the bumpstops via a Schrader valve. I have mine plumbed such that you don't even have to open the hood or rear hatch to access the valves. Simply pull apart a quick-disconnect fitting, attach another fitting with the Schrader valve, and inflate.

With a spare front/rear, and the GOE kit, I have no qualms about driving my rig anywhere.

 

[avslash]

he coil struts do not have the range of travel which is why from a movement purpose, are inferior to the air struts which have 13" range in the rear! That's like what you get on an older discovery with coil cones to keep it aligned when you pull the axle too far away from the body after removing the sway bar in the rear to get crazy articulations.

The lr3/4 coils cannot do all that and with the suspension design, i cannot imagine how scary the handling would be on the highway if you removed the sway bars. Could be cool as **** on trails though.

Anybody ever quantify what articulation (if any) would be gained by removing the sway bars, or if removal of them would lead to any other issues such as over extending the CV joints or air struts?

I have looked at the quick disconnect fittings used by the Wrangler crowd, and it doesn't look like it would be a bear of a job for my local fab shop to custom make something similar for the LR.

Likely not worth it once second or third order effects are considered, but what the hell, when you are as far down the rabbit hole as my LR4 is at this point, everything is on the table for discussion.

 

[jwest]

Anybody ever quantify what articulation (if any) would be gained by removing the sway bars, or if removal of them would lead to any other issues such as over extending the CV joints or air struts?

I have looked at the quick disconnect fittings used by the Wrangler crowd, and it doesn't look like it would be a bear of a job for my local fab shop to custom make something similar for the LR.

Likely not worth it once second or third order effects are considered, but what the hell, when you are as far down the rabbit hole as my LR4 is at this point, everything is on the table for discussion.

I shouldn't have mentioned it because if you think about it, this suspension already reaches right to it's physical limits after which breakage will become almost certain. Even with the strut spacer one has to be careful of the front joints especially.

 

[avslash]

I shouldn't have mentioned it because if you think about it, this suspension already reaches right to it's physical limits after which breakage will become almost certain. Even with the strut spacer one has to be careful of the front joints especially.

About two minutes after I made that post, I thought that it probably doesn't matter, because I already have the limit straps installed with the strut spacers.

 

[Fugi Snow]

I can replace one in under 2 hrs in a driveway or on a trail. These really do not "fail" like you make it sound. Many big industrial vehicles are on air springs including buses running millions of miles on them.

The weakest points on the lr are not the struts but if the compressor gives out or somewhere in the lines or a valve block fail.

The best way to safe guard a failure is to install the strut spacer or to use stock size to 31.5" tires. Though the strut spacer plus a 32-33" tire provides the most ground clearance even without air in the system.

Good to know! So a strut spacer instead of the Johnson Rods? Does the spacer effect ride quality? I've heard raising the LR can at times be problematic for the computer. Thanks

 

[ryanjl]

If you use the strut spacer, you'll need the Johnson Rods too (or something similar). It's really the only time the Johnson Rods are recommended.

 

[Fugi Snow]

Thanks for all the info! I prefer the air springs as far as ride quality so its good to know that the springs can be changed out easily and that I can get decent size tires on 18" wheels without modifications. Strut spacer? What tire size benefit does it offer and is there a trade of on ride quality? I plan to go off road but not crazy serious stuff in the near future.

 

[Fugi Snow]

If you use the strut spacer, you'll need the Johnson Rods too (or something similar). It's really the only time the Johnson Rods are recommended.

Got it. The rods are a replacement for the factory rods and to fill that gap the spacers are needed. Understood. Looking at the Johnson Rod site and gauging if the additional height and complications is worth the 2.5" gain. Thanks again for steering me in the right direction.

 

[jwest]

Thanks for all the info! I prefer the air springs as far as ride quality so its good to know that the springs can be changed out easily and that I can get decent size tires on 18" wheels without modifications. Strut spacer? What tire size benefit does it offer and is there a trade of on ride quality? I plan to go off road but not crazy serious stuff in the near future.

There definitely trade offs. At 32" and smaller, no strut spacers are needed. Nor do you need the rods unless you have the strut spacers.

I used 32" for about 5 years and in some aspects, it's the best choice all around because they weigh a lot less so they handle much better braking and anything really. They are easier to deal with for swapping/rotating. They are generally cheaper and they fit in more situations with less trimming needed.

Of course 31.5 is the total no-hassle size.