Control arm fail

[david cook]

I am knew to this control arm issue: car about 50K miles (2013) and failed inspection.

Mechanic said I should replace lower front right/left control arms. I do sense a suspension issue starting to show as the car goes over speed bumps and turns. It has not done any off-orading.

Two questions for everybody thats an expert here:
1. How do I know that its lower control arm or upper has to be replaced?
2. The Lemfoeder that he quoted me is 4 times the price thats available on-line. I know they have to mark up, but 4x. Whats your recommendation? Tell him I bring the part or go to some place where I bring the part?

 

[f1racer328]

Lower control arms are super common on these. Uppers not so much.

If you put your car in drive, accelerate to 5 mph or so, and slam on the brakes you will feel the clunk of the control arms.

How much did he quote you for the parts/install? Remember you need an alignment afterwards too.

 

[ftillier]

Uppers don't take nearly the load of the lowers, which is why they last so much longer. Is labor in addition to the 4x priced parts, or is that the total cost including labor? If labor is in addition, ask if you can supply the parts. There is no reason they need to mark up the parts, especially if they're not official JLR parts. If you're mechanically inclined, the lower arms are doable in your garage, they're just heavy and awkward. Then it's just an alignment.

 

[f1racer328]

Uppers don't take nearly the load of the lowers, which is why they last so much longer. Is labor in addition to the 4x priced parts, or is that the total cost including labor? If labor is in addition, ask if you can supply the parts. There is no reason they need to mark up the parts, especially if they're not official JLR parts. If you're mechanically inclined, the lower arms are doable in your garage, they're just heavy and awkward. Then it's just an alignment.

They’re doable in your garage, but it’s almost essential to cut the old ones off if they’re seized. Mine were and my vehicle is rust free.

I used a Milwaukee M18 Hackzall.

 

[ftillier]

They are also torqued to a ridiculous level, which can make getting them loose difficult if your clearance is limited (i.e. you're on jackstands)

 

[MRLR4]

Tell him I bring the part or go to some place where I bring the part?

He's probably using a local supplier. Some do mark them at 600 each. Tell him to mail order from AutohauzAZ or such similar place, let you BYO, or you'll go elsewhere. Can also order in MeyleHD from anyone for about $150.

Mechanic you use is irrelevant. Easy job (for a shop) and gets realigned afterwards anyway. Loyalty isn't worth a grand on an old Rover.