DIY Oil Changes Impossible & 2nd Battery

[crewcabrob]

Hi all,

Just trying to confirm that the first oil change is scheduled to happen around 12 months/15000 miles? I have asked the dealer more than once, and they always tell me yes.

I see some of you are changing it before then. Not trying to offend here, but should I be more ****/obsesive compulsive about the engine and oil changes?

Rob

 

[LR4ME]

Rob,
They do say 12mths, 15000 miles. I waited until 6500 miles, and could not stand it any more, had to have the oil changed. I asked the service manager if he thought I was being stupid, and he said he would do it if it were his vehicle. I dunno, it just seems like a hell of a long time to wait for a first oil change

 

[crewcabrob]

Hi,

Thanks for the reply.

6500 miles will be about all I drive the vehicle in the first year of ownership anyway. I think last year I put 5300 miles on my primary driver. I walk and ride to work quite a bit, so it is used primarily for family vacations and less frequent trips to the store.

Thanks for the info, it will certianly be useful.

Rob

 

[PALR4]

anyone tried using one of these
http://www.drpower.com/prdSell.aspx?Name=OilExtractor&src=VW64826XE2913829
for the LR4 oil change? Seems like a cheap alternative...

You could use that pump, but keep in mind you will be pulling ~8.5 quarts of oil out, so you will have to empty it before all the oil is out. The Mityvac 8.8 litre capacity pumps are only about $20 more ($40 more than the sale price) and are definately a better made product.

 

[Landmark]

I think 15k way to long also. Did mine at 6500. Getting ready to rotate and balance tires at 7300. Fronts are looking a bit worn.

 

[holygrail]

Getting more complicating than easy

Well its true that there is no drain plug, if you remove the oil fill cap you will see the a steel pipe..this pipe runs to the bottom of the engine and is the attachment point for a suction type oil change , and the oil filter is a cartridge style that you access from the top of the engine....So long story short it will take a speacil tool to change your oil but it is nowhere near 4k. I just found this and it will do the trick
Amazon.com: Motive Products Power Extractor Allows Easy Evacuation of Engine Oil, Transmission Fluid, Brake Fluid and other Fluids: Automotive hope that clears things up some

Cheers

Dave

Dave,

I have a 335i BMW and the oil cartridge is accessed right on top near the engine as well...very simple. This cartridge is can only be purchased through the dealership as well (so far), but it only costs $18. The underpinnings has a shield as well, but there is a little square cover the size of a hand...and when opened, the oil can be drained from there. I was hoping that was the case for the LR4, but I guess not. Is the Power Extractor universal. Do you know if it can be used on the LR4?

P.S. To all: The bimmers also require oil change every 15k miles, but even the BMW mechanics and manager told me that if it was their car, they would change it every 7500 miles. I figured that to be common sense anyway, and do it myself every half way point. They said oil technology is great, but not THAT great. I pay about $45-55 for parts, and $20 for labor at a local mechanic. The dealership charges $180 after your 50,000miles warranty is up. I bet the LR would be similar in price.

V/r
Chris

 

[Mtnboy]

I have been using a vacume pump for the past couple of cars (2005 Golf TDI and BMW E39 525i) and am not excited about having to crawl under the LR3 to change the oil and filter. Both the Golf and E39 have a cartridge filter uptop and it takes me about 15 min to change the filter and oil. If I am carefule, I can even do it in my street clothes. The filters are cheap, especially when I buy a case of them from the internet (~$6/filter).

I'll probably tackle the LR3 this weekend, but probably pump the engine, and then open up the drain plug, to prevent the oil surge. I am debating if I need some ramps for this.

Given my choice I would go with the LR 4 system with the top of engine filter and pump. This should take about 30 minuets less than the LR3 and the 12 skid plate bolts. I think this is more about supporting service departments with proprietary oil changes that only take about 10 min to complete. figure $50 of the change is labor, this is $300/hr of labor profit for the stealership.

Cheers

 

[vhousad]

I have now done an oil change on my 2010 full size Range Rover S/C and will soon be doing one on my LR4

Bill,
Were you able to complete the oil change on the LR4? I purchased the identical evacuator you provide the link to and the provided tubing is too large to fit into the access hole. I have been unable to find other tubing at the store small enough to fit into the small opening under the oil cap. Am I missing something obvious here?
Thanks!
Adam

 

[PALR4]

Hey,


Use the larger tube that comes out of the pump and it fits OVER the the tube under the oil cap...

I just did an oil change on my 2011 full size RR S/C (same) and it works perfect.

Bill

 

[vhousad]

Hey,


Use the larger tube that comes out of the pump and it fits OVER the the tube under the oil cap...

I just did an oil change on my 2011 full size RR S/C (same) and it works perfect.

Bill

Thanks Bill - this works perfectly now! I hang my head in shame for missing the obvious
What a simple process!