Electronic Gremlins D4/ LR4

Andrew H

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Hi There,

I have a D4 2010 HSE and i'm got a whole series of seemingly unconnected electronic gremlins, and I guess I'm hoping that people out there can tell me what's going on before I go around the bend!

The vehicle has cornering lights as an option and bluetooth.

These problems are intermittent and have been occurring on and off for over a year. They are:

1. An electronic clicking sound from the passenger compartment (?fuse box) , headlights flicker and then a warning light that the cornering lights are faulty. This has happened about a half a dozen times but in between there is no problem.

2. The car alarm randomly goes off. e.g in the garage. This is becoming more and more frequent and in the last week has occurred almost daily.

3. The engine immobiliser won't tun off. e.g car unlocked, car turns over but won't catch. new battery in smart key. Locking/unlocking car has no effect. only solution is to lock car, walk far away and wait 15-30 mins. Randomly fixes itself.

4. Bluetooth phone is down. No phone can connect (or find it in options). Have tried the following solutions from other forums. a/ Disconnected the battery - bluetooth worked but dropped out after 5 minutes. b/ Pulling the fuses 68, 67, and 64 which reset the AV system. This worked for about one trip in the car - and now doing this again has no effect. Have also replaced these fuses with new ones.

My car battery is about 2 years old. I have had a single flat battery in that time. Why it went flat I don't know - I was away for 2 weeks though. I recharged it over 2 nights and it has been fine ever since.

I'm wondering if there is a common issue that is easily fixed? Would using an OBD2 reader help pinpoint the issue? Loath to take it to the local dealer who will charge me $$$ just to diagnose the problem (which could be incorrect).

Thanks

Andrew
 

ryanjl

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My guess is your battery is dead or near-dying. 2 years for a battery, while short, isn't unheard of, especially if you went with a run of the mill battery and not a premium one.
 

Stuart Barnes

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My guess is your battery is dead or near-dying. 2 years for a battery, while short, isn't unheard of, especially if you went with a run of the mill battery and not a premium one.


What ranjil said, go for the easy low hanging fruit first and swap out the battery
 

cperez

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Would using an OBD2 reader help pinpoint the issue?

Pulling codes would certainly be a good idea. It could be one or more of the 2 dozen+ ECUs in your vehicle. For starters you can have an auto parts store pull codes for you for free, or get an inexpensive tool of your own. If you're committed to the vehicle and like troubleshooting stuff on your own, then a GAP IIDTool is the state of the art diagnostic tool for the Land Rover.
 

RobRover88

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G'day Andrew H,
Just been reading your same post on the Aussie LR Forum. So far (fingers crossed!!) I've not had similar problems with my D4 diesel in Melbourne, BUT - my Chrysler 300 diesel experienced of the same electrical
glitches in the past & currently has issues with rear wheel speed sensor affecting cruise control, Stability control & ABS. Same electronic sound in dash as you're getting in cabin - but only when turning right hard Alarm was doing same as yours. Battery went flat - dealer replaced BCM to no avail. Turned out to be a bad "stretched" lead, or so the Chrysler/Jeep dealer said after weeks of trying.
First I'd replace the battery - low voltage can cause many unexplained issues. You may have an earth-leak somewhere. Get a good LR- experienced indy auto electrician to check out everything- NOT a dealer!
My D4 is still on OE battery - coming up on 7 years old. I expect to replace it later this year before I make
my next big roadtrip now the Covid situation is improving.
Enjoy driving your fabulous tracks down there in "Tassie". I hope to get my D4 on to the boat later this year - got to get back to Granville Harbour!
 

Andrew H

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Thanks all and Rob - you've got to get over here!

Battery tested fine at battery shop (marshall) but I insisted on a new one as (I agree) seemed the easiest and most likely fix. As the system reset when the battery was swapped over, everything worked fine and I was elated. But 1/2 an hour later when she was parked in the garage it all went to custard again. Alarm went off for no reason and bluetooth dropped out again - permanently.
Code reader brought up no codes initially but going into each module brought up about 50 codes - a lot repeated. Too may for me to really make sense of.

car also told me battery was low and shut down the head unit - this is with a brand new never used battery. But car started fine and drove it round a bit and this hasn't happened again.
Alternator replaced a year ago.

SO code reader and also "secret" menu being the touchscreen says battery voltage is low (10 - 10.2 V) when car not running but pretty normal - 13.7 - 14V when car running. I thought it could be a loose wire or a short somewhere but i've hunted and hunted and can't see anything out of place. Could the battery monitor or management module be on the blink? I've pretty much given up for now and i'm very sadly resigned to paying dealer to try and diagnose the problem. I learn't today that there is JLR software called SDD that is great for diagnosing causes without trying to work out the meaning of the codes. I assume the dealer will have this and use it.
 

Andrew H

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PS Rob, yes I hear you about the dealer, I'm hoping my independent guy (who is excellent) can sort it out before, but he's super busy and i've had to book her in at the dealer for the week after next. The engine immobiliser problem is infrequent but I really can't tolerate getting stranded again.
 

Wmpaand

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Hello Andrew, I have a 2014 LR4 and when I replaced the battery I knew I had to reset the battery life counter as well as correct/update the battery type. Do you know if this was done when you got the new battery installed? I did it myself using an IIDtool BT ODB2 computer but a good Indy with original LR tools should have done it. I think not doing it could mean that the alternator is not charging the battery correctly and it may not get topped up properly.

Or, you do have an electrical issue with something leaking current. The way to check that would be to put an ampere meter on the battery, wait 20min for all computers to fall asleep and check how much is being drawn from the battery. Unfortunately I cannot guide you what is "normal" or "expected" but do some calculations on that current and it should tell you how long the battery would last and you'll know if somethings up and you would need to identify the culprit. This is now me guessing but starting to pull fuses of the main computers in the car until you don't see any more draw. But here I think the expertise in the forum may be more helpful.
Good luck!
 

greiswig

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Limited experience with the LR4 yet, but in the past I have traced similar issues to this down to something as simple as bad grounds or bad positive connections. Maybe check for corrosion on some of the key grounds, main fuses and other connection points? If there is too much resistance in the circuit, it would look to the computers like the battery is no good.

Also, are you sure the alternator is working as it should? Have you double-checked the voltage across the battery terminals when the engine is running...or can you?

Best of luck, and I hope it’s something as simple as this!
 
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Andrew H

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[ when I replaced the battery I knew I had to reset the battery life counter as well as correct/update the battery type. Do you know if this was done when you got the new battery installed? ]

No this wasn't done (I watched the whole thing) and Di didn't realise it needed to. I shall investigate. thanks
 

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