Land Rover LR4 H7 to H8 Battery Upgrade DIY

E1966

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I get a "Charging System Fault". Is it safe to just drive it as is with the light on? I really hate the truck throttling the battery at 75-80%.


I Would check the alternator and battery connections before your battery starts to ***** up with your truck. If your battery isn't at it peak in terms of battery output any sensor will be affected and will start sending codes of failure. Until it shuts down.
 

ktm525

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Has anyone tried a group 31 battery?

Looking for more reserve capacity? Compared to a H8 which is a tight fit the group 31 will fit length and width but it is fully 2 inches taller. Not sure the stock cables would reach, battery hold down would fit or if you clear the hood. A second battery system may be preferable or install a solar cell to top up the H8 I guess.
 

gsxr

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Awesome post - thanks for the writeup and photos! When the current H7 dies in our LR4, I plan to replace it with an H8 AGM.
It finally happened. My battery died, without warning. Although we are not driving much with COVID (parked for weeks or months at a time, on a battery maintainer)... the truck ran flawlessly a few weeks ago in April, but this morning the starter couldn't turn over the V8 engine. The cluster went dark and the clock reset to 12:00, then the cluster looked "normal" when the starter no longer was engaged. After 7+ years, the AC Delco Group 94R battery installed by the PO finally died. Load tested at max 250A, at a paltry 7.0 volts, on a 500A carbon-pile load tester: Dead.

So, I forked over $170 + tax for a new EverStart Platinum Group 49/H8 AGM today (link). Four-year full-replacement warranty, made in Mexico (older versions were made in Germany). The negative terminal was a pretty tight fit, pushing up against the wiring harness behind it, but it fit - barely.

I updated the CCF with GAP IID to H8, which was interesting, watching all the on/off/restarts required, totally ridonkulous IMO. As a bonus when it was done, it lost my trip odometer reading and the time/date/clock. Sigh.

This made me wonder, what does the CCF do with the battery setting? Does it look at H8 vs H7/T7 and think "ooooo, there's a bigger battery, I can run the alternator even less now?". Hmmm.

o_O
 

djkaosone

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You'll need to "reset" the battery with the iid tool. Under Service/Test > BCM-Body Control > Battery.

The "smart" charging system has to relearn the charging values for the new battery.
 

gsxr

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You'll need to "reset" the battery with the iid tool. Under Service/Test > BCM-Body Control > Battery.

The "smart" charging system has to relearn the charging values for the new battery.
D'oh! Thanks for the info... will do that ASAP.

:albertein
 

mmbirtcher

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This thread was great. Just used the information to replace my dead (2 year old WalMart) battery with an AutoZone Duralast Platinum AGM H8.

I really appreciated the additional info using the GAP tool for updating the systems.

The H8 was a perfect fit.
 

Justin Allen

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This thread was great. Just used the information to replace my dead (2 year old WalMart) battery with an AutoZone Duralast Platinum AGM H8.

I really appreciated the additional info using the GAP tool for updating the systems.

The H8 was a perfect fit.

Eww. Concerning considering I just did this upgrade with a Walmart H8 battery. I had heard they were good batteries....
 

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