Long crank, no faults

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16FujiDisco

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I know this might not be the most scrupulous idea, but how about buying a warranty then submitting a claim after a month or so? Chalk it up to revenge for all the spam calls….
 

BigBriDogGuy

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Okay, so take this with a grain of salt, because I am an idiot. (It's a known issue.) I just realized I don't have to continue to press the keyless starter button until the engine catches (as I have been doing this entire time). All I have to do is put my foot on the brake, press and release the button, and the the starter will crank until the engine starts. There are also instructions in the owner's manual on what to do if the starter doesn't work at all or if the engine will not start. There is a sequence of actions that you are supposed to go through, put your foot on the gas peddle until it goes all the way down, etc. and it is supposed to reset the keyless starter (at least that's what I got out of it anyway). Again, take this with a grain of salt because I'm an idiot and something that simply probably has nothing to do with it.
 

Jimmy Brooks

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I’m back now that I finally have more free time so I decided to finally jump on this myself. Decided to use a borescope and pull the plugs just to be sure that I don’t have leaky injectors. My question, is this a normal carbon buildup pattern for a car with 143,600 miles? The center of all of my pistons look clean, almost a little too clean…Also does anyone notice any moisture? Here’s the best photos I got.
 

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Jimmy Brooks

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More photos
 

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Adrien

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Hey there Jimmy! Just wanted to chime in as I have an identical long crank issue on my '11 RRS.
Went through the usual diagnostics from various shops (LPFP, HPFP, timing, plugs, etc).
Finally a shop discovered that while long crank was occurring, there was no spark.

Lived with the long crank for nearly 10,000 miles, then suddenly during a hot day while coasting down hill the engine started running rough and I had no acceleration. Pulled off, turned off the car and no codes and restarted just fine.

Month later and I discovered that this poor running is caused by the charging voltage dropping in the low 12s (sometimes even 11.9!) in hot weather. Then finally through lots of log keeping, I discovered that on days where the charging system behaves (13+v) there is no long crank. Battery resting voltage before a long crank is 12.1-12.3v (Not great but I figured not bad). When starting voltage is 12.6+ no long crank. All throughout this there were no charging system faults of warning lights. No codes whatsoever.

Now this could be a coincidence, however I would assume if the coils were going out, they may require a higher input voltage. I will keep experimenting, and I promise you I feel your frustration lol.

For record, work done to try and resolve this issue so far:

- New Alternator
- New Battery
- New Plugs
- Fuel Pressure Sensor (First shop was convinced it was a fuel issue)

Can't wait to hear any discoveries you make regarding this issue! I will continue updating as well in case our rovers are plagued by the same virus.

Cheers

Quick Edit: forgot to mention Crank sensor was also replaced, as well as both MAF.
 
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gsxr

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@Adrien, did you see the post at the link below related to the charging system?

 

djkaosone

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I'll attest to the TSB helping with my charging system. Just move the brown/blue wire from the (+) battery post over to the (+) main fuse block. It's been about a week and I've driven it maybe 3 days, and it's 1000x better than before.

I'm still not convinced that this will fix the long crank issue.
 

Adrien

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Just did the TSB, just the part regarding moving the wire from the battery positive to the fuse box. Charging voltage is now higher (13.8v on startup during hot day vs. 12.8v-13.4v before TSB). I will drive for a few days and report back on if the long crank issue persists!

I agree it seems odd that this would be a fix, then again nothing phases me with this car anymore lol…

Thank you for bringing that TSB to my attention!
 

Jimmy Brooks

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Hey there Jimmy! Just wanted to chime in as I have an identical long crank issue on my '11 RRS.
Went through the usual diagnostics from various shops (LPFP, HPFP, timing, plugs, etc).
Finally a shop discovered that while long crank was occurring, there was no spark.

Lived with the long crank for nearly 10,000 miles, then suddenly during a hot day while coasting down hill the engine started running rough and I had no acceleration. Pulled off, turned off the car and no codes and restarted just fine.

Month later and I discovered that this poor running is caused by the charging voltage dropping in the low 12s (sometimes even 11.9!) in hot weather. Then finally through lots of log keeping, I discovered that on days where the charging system behaves (13+v) there is no long crank. Battery resting voltage before a long crank is 12.1-12.3v (Not great but I figured not bad). When starting voltage is 12.6+ no long crank. All throughout this there were no charging system faults of warning lights. No codes whatsoever.

Now this could be a coincidence, however I would assume if the coils were going out, they may require a higher input voltage. I will keep experimenting, and I promise you I feel your frustration lol.

For record, work done to try and resolve this issue so far:

- New Alternator
- New Battery
- New Plugs
- Fuel Pressure Sensor (First shop was convinced it was a fuel issue)

Can't wait to hear any discoveries you make regarding this issue! I will continue updating as well in case our rovers are plagued by the same virus.

Cheers

Quick Edit: forgot to mention Crank sensor was also replaced, as well as both MAF.

Wow crazy coincidence. I actually first started to notice the long start after a night time off roaring trip I went on where my engine temp was around 210 and trans temp was around 205ish. My volts on the IID tool were reading 11.9 with my light bar high beams and fog lights on yet when I turned them all off it didn’t increase. In fact, it barely increased above 12.4 and I could see my battery’s estimated state of charge dropping via IID tool. Also noticed in the cold, 45°f and below cold start, my voltage would hang low until I got on it then it would rise a bit. All weird to me. Now I know that this reading isn’t directly from the alternator or the battery itself but it’s odd that we both have issues with starting the car and voltage going weird.

Just to ask what battery is your RRS running?

Random but could be a key to see if ours has the same issue, when your in the middle of a long crank and you stop cranking does it sound like the car almost starts running for a second. Almost makes me think that the coils start firing as soon as voltage is freed from the starter cranking.

I was about to post a form asking how to diagnose the low pressure fuel pump check valve to see if my gas was actually receding into the tank after the car runs. However this is making me think it’s more electrical related


Edit: so your saying the car isn’t getting spark? This would line up with the fact that it seems like fuel is being sprayed on my pistons which is causing that big clean spot
 
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