Lr4 5.0 serpentine belt issue

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Stuart Barnes

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You could also tape the phone to a stick and gingerly hang it in there while you get some video to see if there’s a wobble.
But if it’s relatively easy to have the pulley off and reinstall then I’d go straight for that and not waste your time.
 

DaytonaRS7

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You could also tape the phone to a stick and gingerly hang it in there while you get some video to see if there’s a wobble.
But if it’s relatively easy to have the pulley off and reinstall then I’d go straight for that and not waste your time.
Not a bad idea. But i have a feeling the phone would be damaged when the belt inevitably comes off.
I may be able to try and record from a small viewable area between coolant lines and coolant tank.

I don't think its wobbling. Immediatly after ps pump install, and the truck was running correct, I watched everything. No wobble.
Maybe things changed? At this point, I need to invest the time to reinstall for peace of mind.
If that doesnt work, could be a tow to a shop for diagnosis. That last resort though.
 

ktm525

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Make sure both little alignment bumps on back of tensioner are in correct place when installed.. it’s easy to get one out which will change angle
That is a great suggestion. I had mine cockeyed and I couldn't get the belt back on. It took me a few minutes to realize that the tensioner was not seated properly.
 

DaytonaRS7

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Update:
Removed the ps pump pully. Checked the bolts holing the ps pump in place. 1 of them felt loose. I tightened it and the pump kind of shifted/clicked into place. I'd say maybe only 1/32 or 1/16 of movement. This could be enough to solve the problem by making the pulley appear to be spinning straight, but not in plane with the others.

Unfortunalty, when reassembling the car, I couldnt hold a vaccuum on the coolant system. found what appears to be a superficial crack in the water pump outlet pipe. More importantly the black ****** at the water pump was hissing (leak)... I assume when moving coolant pipes out of the way, this got damaged. Then when removing the water pump small black ****** pipe, the retaining ring on the water pump cracked...part of the water pump.
Can't seem to catch break with this car recently.

So now I'm waiting on a new water pump, water pump outlet hose, and hose assembly to replace the black ****** pipe.

Hopefully in a few more days, after parts arrive, I'll be able to actually start the car and verify the original serpentine issue is fixed.
 

ryanjl

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I suppose that would make sense. Over time, whatever bolt in the power steering pump worked loose, and the belt alignment went from ok to not ok.
 

BeemerNut

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Belt tensioner arms over time and mileage bind up then jump instead of taking up and releasing belt tension smoothly. This will increase belt tension increasing strain on the belt as well all the accesory items driven on their bearings vs maintaining a constant tension during hot and cold thermal expansion cycles of the engine, components and belt.

That PS stunt with coolant in the system, how many times has the system been flushed by draining and refilling with PS fluid to remove all traces of coolant from the system? Coolant is the enemy of rod bearings as example but now it's in your complete PS system, ouch it may (will) bite you in the butt later in parts replacements and labor.

Had me thinking your starting in a cold climate, if a low ratio of coolant to water mix were added the water mix in the PS unit turns to ice, boom frozen pump and broken belts.

You should of had the LR towed to a dealership and let them do everything required to make everything right then presented the bill to the shop that screwed up which sounds like a court case a big cash settelement, parts and labor all in your favor.

Dealing with a scumbag extended warranty vs out of pocket replacement engine in my case I also had the LR dealership also fighting for me. Service writer and mechanic also personal friends for years.

Months of delays no vehicle parked inside the dealership while the clock kept ticking running out on the 7/100K warranty, Western General kept stalling and delaying the dealership from investigating deeper into the engine preventing them from coming up with more internal damage to be added to the warranty coverage bill. Their replies not being answered to several questions sent to them.

It took a letter with an attorney letterhead across the top to convince Western General their 7/100K mile extended coverage after they were ordering the dealership to do a patch job on the wounded engine to function an additional five plus weeks longer being just over the end of their 7/100 coverage before the engine would of failed again.
Nope, factory new LR shortblock installed along with replacing the timing cover replacing the faulty oil pump with a new timing cover / pump assembly that already had damaged the engine. New shortblock along with new timing cover / pump assembly.

Would of hated going to court but hated more spending over $8,700 out of my pocket my money when all said and done.

All the best getting back up and running again. Check all idler pulley bearings or replace them as they have a hard life spinning two to three times faster the the engine. I'd also carry a spare belt along with wrench to unload the tensioner arm. Broken belt on the side of the road just a belt failure not any accessory or idler bearing failure you'll be glad you had that spare belt and wrench. I don't leave home without them along with tools, digital meter, spare distributor, alternator, tape, gallon of coolant and quarts of oil. All this as important as having the spare tyre. Failed starters not an issue I can bump start this five speed.......~~=o&o>.......
 
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DaytonaRS7

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Belt tensioner arms over time and mileage bind up then jump instead of taking up and releasing belt tension smoothly. This will increase belt tension increasing strain on the belt as well all the accesory items driven on their bearings vs maintaining a constant tension during hot and cold thermal expansion cycles of the engine, components and belt.

That PS stunt with coolant in the system, how many times has the system been flushed by draining and refilling with PS fluid to remove all traces of coolant from the system? Coolant is the enemy of rod bearings as example but now it's in your complete PS system, ouch it may (will) bite you in the butt later in parts replacements and labor.

Had me thinking your starting in a cold climate, if a low ratio of coolant to water mix were added the water mix in the PS unit turns to ice, boom frozen pump and broken belts.

You should of had the LR towed to a dealership and let them do everything required to make everything right then presented the bill to the shop that screwed up which sounds like a court case a big cash settelement, parts and labor all in your favor.

Dealing with a scumbag extended warranty vs out of pocket replacement engine in my case I also had the LR dealership also fighting for me. Service writer and mechanic also personal friends for years.

Months of delays no vehicle parked inside the dealership while the clock kept ticking running out on the 7/100K warranty, Western General kept stalling and delaying the dealership from investigating deeper into the engine preventing them from coming up with more internal damage to be added to the warranty coverage bill. Their replies not being answered to several questions sent to them.

It took a letter with an attorney letterhead across the top to convince Western General their 7/100K mile extended coverage after they were ordering the dealership to do a patch job on the wounded engine to function an additional five plus weeks longer being just over the end of their 7/100 coverage before the engine would of failed again.
Nope, factory new LR shortblock installed along with replacing the timing cover replacing the faulty oil pump with a new timing cover / pump assembly that already had damaged the engine. New shortblock along with new timing cover / pump assembly.

Would of hated going to court but hated more spending over $8,700 out of my pocket my money when all said and done.

All the best getting back up and running again. Check all idler pulley bearings or replace them as they have a hard life spinning two to three times faster the the engine. I'd also carry a spare belt along with wrench to unload the tensioner arm. Broken belt on the side of the road just a belt failure not any accessory or idler bearing failure you'll be glad you had that spare belt and wrench. I don't leave home without them along with tools, digital meter, spare distributor, alternator, tape, gallon of coolant and quarts of oil. All this as important as having the spare tyre. Failed starters not an issue I can bump start this five speed.......~~=o&o>.......
I agree completely, but I kind of have a separate issue that required this car running asap.
I'm early trading in my second car, and the new car isn't arriving for 5 months. So this had to be reliable by this coming Thursday to be used as my daily driver. No time to abandon my car at a dealer or shop while it gets fought over.
And I brought it up to the shop (mavis) they flat out lied and said they did no such thing. I can't prove they did it. Inevitably it would have been alot of headache for slim to no chance of winning.

That said, I started the car twice without coolant in it today. Temp is 20 degrees f and only ran it for 5-10 seconds each time, and Belt stayed on.

I've got my fingers crossed that it will work after I get the coolant hoses.

And as far as flushing the ps system, I drained it and ran 4 quarts of fluid through it.
 

DaytonaRS7

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For some closure, the car is up and running again.

It goes without saying...double check your diy installs.

My entire problem came down to a slightly improper ps install. Causing the belt to break, damage wiring, fan, coolant hoses, and sensors along the way.
My arrogance caused me to think my ps pump install wasn't the issue; Ended up it was. Lesson learned. Glad to have my car running again.
 

ryanjl

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Alls well that ends well.

By the way, what led you to replacing the power steering pump?
 

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