Post Off Road Clean Up (mud!)

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rovernut

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My $.02 (I used to have a detailing business)


The regular green will do a fine job and is less harsh than the purple. If the engine is greasy then Autozone/Pep Boys sell generic purple degreaser you can dilute and use, but the regular simple green from the supermarket should be fine.

Try and keep either cleaner off the paint on the front quarter panels, bumper and grill area as it will strip off any wax that you have, or be prepared to re-wax the vehicle afterwards. The engine can be warm (actually preferred) but you should try and let it cool a little especially if you're car wash uses cold water - if there's a hot setting for the water use that. Spray the engine bay with cleaner, agitate exposed areas with a soft brush or mitt, then rinse and dry as possible. During rinsing try and stay clear of obvious electrical connections with high pressure - water will be ok, but high pressure can get past some of the seals and that's where you'll have issues.

As you are having some real heat up north, the paint should also be as cool as possible (wet it all down first if you have enough quarters) so that when the simple green get's on it there is less chance of etching, and rinse the whole front end afterwards too to make sure overspray is rinsed off.

Most self serve car washes use recycled water that's less than ideal for any "detailing" so I always would dry the vehicle afterwards.

Typical detailer scenario is start with engine compartment, clean and dry, go to wheels next, then body, starting with roof, then front end, working your way back (to the dirtiest end) rinsing each section as you go, then total dry down. Different mitts for wheels, and if you're crazy like me, different ones for upper and lower sections of panels to eliminate swirls. NEVER use the brush - unless you are the very first person to use it EVER - or you don't mind the small swirls and scratches it will leave....I always took a mitt and bucket and hand washed with that and my own soap if i have to use a coin-op bay even though signs say "no bucket/hand washing" .
 

Finlayforprez

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My $.02 (I used to have a detailing business)


The regular green will do a fine job and is less harsh than the purple. If the engine is greasy then Autozone/Pep Boys sell generic purple degreaser you can dilute and use, but the regular simple green from the supermarket should be fine.

Try and keep either cleaner off the paint on the front quarter panels, bumper and grill area as it will strip off any wax that you have, or be prepared to re-wax the vehicle afterwards. The engine can be warm (actually preferred) but you should try and let it cool a little especially if you're car wash uses cold water - if there's a hot setting for the water use that. Spray the engine bay with cleaner, agitate exposed areas with a soft brush or mitt, then rinse and dry as possible. During rinsing try and stay clear of obvious electrical connections with high pressure - water will be ok, but high pressure can get past some of the seals and that's where you'll have issues.

As you are having some real heat up north, the paint should also be as cool as possible (wet it all down first if you have enough quarters) so that when the simple green get's on it there is less chance of etching, and rinse the whole front end afterwards too to make sure overspray is rinsed off.

Most self serve car washes use recycled water that's less than ideal for any "detailing" so I always would dry the vehicle afterwards.

Typical detailer scenario is start with engine compartment, clean and dry, go to wheels next, then body, starting with roof, then front end, working your way back (to the dirtiest end) rinsing each section as you go, then total dry down. Different mitts for wheels, and if you're crazy like me, different ones for upper and lower sections of panels to eliminate swirls. NEVER use the brush - unless you are the very first person to use it EVER - or you don't mind the small swirls and scratches it will leave....I always took a mitt and bucket and hand washed with that and my own soap if i have to use a coin-op bay even though signs say "no bucket/hand washing" .
VERY helpful - thanks so much! What do you use to dry your engine bay? I usually wash my truck in the evening at a coin-operated wash (we have a good one right near me), then either let it dry if I am being lazy (it's white so no spots and it dries in the night). Or, most of the time I wash and then use a shammy dry cloth and wipe it all down. I always bring a bucket with my own mit and soap. We are allowed to do this as long as no one is waiting for the wash bay. I do exactly what you say when washing out the engine bay, but I haven't really dried it much except I try to drive for about 15 minutes after washing the engine bay. Also, I find that doing it right after you go offroading and it's muddy, etc. is the best time. Letting it stay there, at least in the engine, makes it worse.

My black pack wheels clean so easily with just soapy water and a cloth. I don't use wheel cleaner or tire dressings.

-David
 

AxelR

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My $.02 (I used to have a detailing business)


The regular green will do a fine job and is less harsh than the purple. If the engine is greasy then Autozone/Pep Boys sell generic purple degreaser you can dilute and use, but the regular simple green from the supermarket should be fine.

Try and keep either cleaner off the paint on the front quarter panels, bumper and grill area as it will strip off any wax that you have, or be prepared to re-wax the vehicle afterwards. The engine can be warm (actually preferred) but you should try and let it cool a little especially if you're car wash uses cold water - if there's a hot setting for the water use that. Spray the engine bay with cleaner, agitate exposed areas with a soft brush or mitt, then rinse and dry as possible. During rinsing try and stay clear of obvious electrical connections with high pressure - water will be ok, but high pressure can get past some of the seals and that's where you'll have issues.

As you are having some real heat up north, the paint should also be as cool as possible (wet it all down first if you have enough quarters) so that when the simple green get's on it there is less chance of etching, and rinse the whole front end afterwards too to make sure overspray is rinsed off.

Most self serve car washes use recycled water that's less than ideal for any "detailing" so I always would dry the vehicle afterwards.

Typical detailer scenario is start with engine compartment, clean and dry, go to wheels next, then body, starting with roof, then front end, working your way back (to the dirtiest end) rinsing each section as you go, then total dry down. Different mitts for wheels, and if you're crazy like me, different ones for upper and lower sections of panels to eliminate swirls. NEVER use the brush - unless you are the very first person to use it EVER - or you don't mind the small swirls and scratches it will leave....I always took a mitt and bucket and hand washed with that and my own soap if i have to use a coin-op bay even though signs say "no bucket/hand washing" .


Thank you very much for the detailed explanation rovernut. I very much appreciate it.
So I'll look for regular simple green at the store.
Yes we've been having quite the heat wave recently, of course today as I go with the kids to the beach (summer camp) it's cold, windy and rainy!!!
I will let you know how it all comes out.
Thanks again
Axel
 

rovernut

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VERY helpful - thanks so much! What do you use to dry your engine bay? I usually wash my truck in the evening at a coin-operated wash (we have a good one right near me), then either let it dry if I am being lazy (it's white so no spots and it dries in the night). Or, most of the time I wash and then use a shammy dry cloth and wipe it all down. I always bring a bucket with my own mit and soap. We are allowed to do this as long as no one is waiting for the wash bay. I do exactly what you say when washing out the engine bay, but I haven't really dried it much except I try to drive for about 15 minutes after washing the engine bay. Also, I find that doing it right after you go offroading and it's muddy, etc. is the best time. Letting it stay there, at least in the engine, makes it worse.

My black pack wheels clean so easily with just soapy water and a cloth. I don't use wheel cleaner or tire dressings.

-David

I use the "Absorber" synthetic chamois, as they can be thrown in a washing machine and cleaned from time to time, and have some old, white, 100% cotton towels to use as follow up the exterior and to dry engine compartment. I keep one of each in the back "just in case". Towels are washed in the machine with hot water, no softener or dryer sheets. Micro fiber towels are all the rage right now but I don't think they dry as well as cotton ones, but they do leave less scratches and lint. I also use my shop-vac and a tapered nozzle end in the exhaust side of the vac to blow water out of crevices, the engine compartment and the like.

For those that care, this is a great link with lot's of helpful info....no affiliation but a great source for products and knowledge.

http://store.carcareonline.com/howto_articles.aspx

EDIT - looking back some of these are a little dated, but still good basics. Another great place to shop or see some detailing work is detailersdomain.com. Phil does great work and gives a lot of explanations as to what he does.

Randy
 
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Finlayforprez

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I use the "Absorber" synthetic chamois, as they can be thrown in a washing machine and cleaned from time to time, and have some old, white, 100% cotton towels to use as follow up the exterior and to dry engine compartment. I keep one of each in the back "just in case". Towels are washed in the machine with hot water, no softener or dryer sheets. Micro fiber towels are all the rage right now but I don't think they dry as well as cotton ones, but they do leave less scratches and lint. I also use my shop-vac and a tapered nozzle end in the exhaust side of the vac to blow water out of crevices, the engine compartment and the like.

For those that care, this is a great link with lot's of helpful info....no affiliation but a great source for products and knowledge.

http://store.carcareonline.com/howto_articles.aspx

EDIT - looking back some of these are a little dated, but still good basics. Another great place to shop or see some detailing work is detailersdomain.com. Phil does great work and gives a lot of explanations as to what he does.

Randy
THANK YOU! :)

This is VERY helpful.
 

Quijote

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The Absorber is awesome. I've been using it for years. Walmart has the best price, usually.
 

rovernut

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The Absorber is awesome. I've been using it for years. Walmart has the best price, usually.

I have one that's so old the guy pictured on the sleeve has a perm and is drying a Dodge Omni! Think it's circa 1985!
 

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