Some suspension fault codes this morning

[scott schmerge]

So, interesting thing.

Got the parts in late Thursday, so didn't have time to mess with it until today.

Put the frame on 4 jackstands before I deflated the EAS using the GAP tool. When I deflated it, the rear actually raised, lifting off of the jackstands. When I removed the valve block right near the compressor, air rushed out when I removed the fitting going towards the air tank, and one other fitting (can't remember which), but the rear is still extended, even with the entire valve block removed and the air lines just sitting there open.

Does this seem wrong?

hmm. Might be your rear valve block then. But I’d start with your reservoir block.

mine dropped to all four bumpstops when I dropped it.

it might have raised your rear though because the reservoir valve couldn’t vent the pressure.

fortunately you have the o rings for your rear valve too...always look on the bright side of life! ;-)

I believe the center block vents between the front and rear blocks and if you’ve got an issue with the center block, this would make sense. What I don’t understand is why the rear valve would not vent after disconnection unless it disables as soon as the vehicle senses it is done venting.

 

[ryanjl]

hmm. Might be your rear valve block then. But I’d start with your reservoir block.

mine dropped to all four bumpstops when I dropped it.

it might have raised your rear though because the reservoir valve couldn’t vent the pressure.

fortunately you have the o rings for your rear valve too...always look on the bright side of life! ;-)

Haha. Yep. And I was going to do that job sometime soon anyway. And the wife's out of town, so it's a valve block party in the tv-room.

 

[scott schmerge]

Haha. Yep. And I was going to do that job sometime soon anyway. And the wife's out of town, so it's a valve block party in the tv-room.

it’s actually a fun job. Not technical or messy. I had a p38 and this suspension is far superior in design and ease of repair. Quite an improvement by the design crew. If they had only thought this hard about the plastic crossover pipes!!!

 

[ryanjl]

I am having a hell of a time getting this back together.

I know this picture is from a front or rear valve block, but the piston on the left is the same as the single piston in the center valve block. My issue is the rubber gasket that marked by the red arrow on the top left. I can get it on fine, but I absolutely cannot rotate that round plastic clip to lock it in place once the new gasket is there. The new gasket is a bit thicker than the one I removed. I'm considering just cleaning and reusing the old gasket.

Any tricks I'm missing?

 

[scott schmerge]

Absolutely just clean and reuse if o ring is a different size. That’s odd. Might put some silicone lubricant and really clean well just to make sure you’ve got a clean o ring that’ll slide when needed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ryanjl]

Well, after doing the center valve block, one of the codes is gone, but C1A36-01 is still there and all the problems still remain. Tried to deflate the system again and now the front is at the bumpstops and the rear is still extended.

I need to do some more research on how to get that rear valve block out of there. There are two air lines that face the inside of the vehicle that are going to be a big PITA. I removed the spare, but not sure that helped access at all.

 

[scott schmerge]

From the wsm

 

[scott schmerge]

Well, after doing the center valve block, one of the codes is gone, but C1A36-01 is still there and all the problems still remain. Tried to deflate the system again and now the front is at the bumpstops and the rear is still extended.

I need to do some more research on how to get that rear valve block out of there. There are two air lines that face the inside of the vehicle that are going to be a big PITA. I removed the spare, but not sure that helped access at all.

says to remove the block first before removing lines.

also, wondering if you try to depressurize now after returning to height, with center block functionality, if it will drop

 

[ryanjl]

Got the rear block off. Removing the rear block allowed the back springs to depressurize.

The inside of the rear block looked really good, with one exception: the tip of the inside of the middle plunger (right above the middle red arrow in the picture above--the one right below the spring) had about a half-millimeter of dessicant powder on it. I'm hoping that't it, because the rest of it looked good. We'll see when I go to install it. Given the symptoms I've seen, if this isn't it, it's a wiring problem or something.

Also, the rebuild kit I bought isn't very good. Aside from the too-thick bushing I've talked about above, I had to re-use some of the original bushings on the middle plunger in the back valve block. A few of the new bushings that were provided were just too big and sat loose on the parts they were supposed to sit tight on. I'm just glad it was in good condition and the rubber bushings still nice and rubbery.

I'm not sure what other options are out there for rebuild kits, though. I read some older posts here and other forums where people used a British Parts of Utah kit, but what they have right now looks the exact same as what I got off Amazon. The price on the older kits mentioned on other forum posts was a bit more: $35 per block. I paid less than that for one kit that does all 3 blocks. Guess you get what you pay for, but I'm not seeing a more premium kit anywhere.

Sad to say, but if my valve blocks were really borked, I'd probably need a whole new valve blocks.

 

[ryanjl]

Well, after a day of rebuilding the center and rear valve blocks, I'm right back exactly where I was this morning. Same two error codes.

C1A13-64 Pressure does not decrease when venting gallery - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure

C1A36-01 Exhaust valve - General failure information - general electric failure

After I installed the rebuilt rear valve block, I took the car off the jackstands and the whole thing was on the bumpstops, as it should be. But then I started the car to see the same error message. Cleared the code, let it sit for a bit, watched it as (thankfully) it went back up to at least access height, then immediately when I hit the button for it to go to normal height, the orange triangle returned.

It's got to be an electric issue. It's almost as if the ride-height button is a button that activates the dash warning light--it's that instant.

Looking at this old thread: https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/suspension-fault-c1a36-01.29216/, looks like the same problem I'm having (and the poster did the same thing I already did trying to chase the problem). His wound up being a worn wire. I have no idea how to even begin looking for something like that, so this thing might be mechanic bound. Hell, maybe even dealer bound, as I'm not sure I know an indie who can deep-diagnose an issue like this.