Alloy LR rim with 255/65-70 Michelin tyre weighs in at 58 pounds I recall on the 95 D1. The spare stub housing flange with hub, disc and bearings mounted on a plate, bolted to a 3" square tubing pedestal column allows spinning wheels off the ground. Applying the 1960's era "Shoe" spin balance motor with drive roller able to spin up unloaded wheels hence any slight out of balance condition is detected as well seen shaking even if slightly out of balance. Wheels weighted down, LR app 12 to 1,400 pounds per wheel will smooth out masking or hiding small amounts of out of balance conditions, power steering also hides this condition vs manual steering feedback.The butt-O-meter will detect a 1/4 plus oz. out of balance condition, not what I want.
Wheels the same applies to a out of balance driveshaft, under load vibrating a little then duplicating the same speed this time in neutral unloading the driveshaft the out of balance vibrations will be intensified.
Not a fan of mount and balance new tyres vs mounted then driven 20 to 50 miles letting the sidewalls flex in to what I call normalize. Arriving home jacking up removing the still heated tyres before they cool off plus not sitting parked ending up with flat spots. Then have them spun balanced. As mentioned above you may, I say should have 90% chance requiring a slight balance correction after 4-5K miles by that time the tyres have worn slightly and now round. This an easy DIY balance with a static wheel balancer of a horizontal axle (wheel vertical) supported by two close flanged ball bearings not those goofy JKC Whitney bubble balancers with wheel laying flat which will not correct for axial out of balance conditions. Ball park at best.
Detail corrected rebalance with weight added in center between the rim beads.
I haven't a clue what type of hub and disc with double race ball bearing assembly the LR3's and 4's have including how much unsprung weight is involved.
Solid axles on the D1's have a lot of unsprung weight vs independent suspensions able to absorb a little out of balance condition. Solid axles never have to worry about alignment issues and tyre wear, not easy to bang out of alignment. Rock solid last time checked 82K miles ago. Original tie rod ends and rear diff centering upper "A" arm ball joint with still factory stiff joints. Drilled and tapped, installed zerks.
Another ******, tyre shops fixing a flat many not marking the tyre at the valve stem to remount as the wheel has already been balanced then charging you for a balance, ripoffs.
Also seen LR's alloy rims with the super high safety lock of the rim almost impossible for the tyre shops to break the outside bead. This with horizontally mounted machines (Hunter). The shoe with ram pressing upwards with 175 psi to the ram of app 4" bore diameter. Do the math talking 2,200 psi, warped rims coming up while you wait.
Soft aluminum cast rims will bend not crack, your now screwed!
Common problem found with super light (expensive) aftermarket rims for the 87 325is BMW as example now wobble city. Mount and spin before buying any used rims, new ones also.
Axial slight wobble within reason rims can be mounted on the Bridgeport mill, mounted outboard facing down to the mill table taking between 0.011" to 0.017" before establishing full milled contact at the rim to hub mounting surface. Saved a lot of rims that way not reducing the rim's structural strength. Lug nuts turned a 1/4 turn more at most.
PROST......~~=o&o>......
vibration
Wheels the same applies to a out of balance driveshaft, under load vibrating a little then duplicating the same speed this time in neutral unloading the driveshaft the out of balance vibrations will be intensified.
Not a fan of mount and balance new tyres vs mounted then driven 20 to 50 miles letting the sidewalls flex in to what I call normalize. Arriving home jacking up removing the still heated tyres before they cool off plus not sitting parked ending up with flat spots. Then have them spun balanced. As mentioned above you may, I say should have 90% chance requiring a slight balance correction after 4-5K miles by that time the tyres have worn slightly and now round. This an easy DIY balance with a static wheel balancer of a horizontal axle (wheel vertical) supported by two close flanged ball bearings not those goofy JKC Whitney bubble balancers with wheel laying flat which will not correct for axial out of balance conditions. Ball park at best.
Detail corrected rebalance with weight added in center between the rim beads.
I haven't a clue what type of hub and disc with double race ball bearing assembly the LR3's and 4's have including how much unsprung weight is involved.
Solid axles on the D1's have a lot of unsprung weight vs independent suspensions able to absorb a little out of balance condition. Solid axles never have to worry about alignment issues and tyre wear, not easy to bang out of alignment. Rock solid last time checked 82K miles ago. Original tie rod ends and rear diff centering upper "A" arm ball joint with still factory stiff joints. Drilled and tapped, installed zerks.
Another ******, tyre shops fixing a flat many not marking the tyre at the valve stem to remount as the wheel has already been balanced then charging you for a balance, ripoffs.
Also seen LR's alloy rims with the super high safety lock of the rim almost impossible for the tyre shops to break the outside bead. This with horizontally mounted machines (Hunter). The shoe with ram pressing upwards with 175 psi to the ram of app 4" bore diameter. Do the math talking 2,200 psi, warped rims coming up while you wait.
Soft aluminum cast rims will bend not crack, your now screwed!
Common problem found with super light (expensive) aftermarket rims for the 87 325is BMW as example now wobble city. Mount and spin before buying any used rims, new ones also.
Axial slight wobble within reason rims can be mounted on the Bridgeport mill, mounted outboard facing down to the mill table taking between 0.011" to 0.017" before establishing full milled contact at the rim to hub mounting surface. Saved a lot of rims that way not reducing the rim's structural strength. Lug nuts turned a 1/4 turn more at most.
PROST......~~=o&o>......
