Suspension Fault

[Mach1s]

I wondered the same about the Mr. Glasscock post. This is what they sent me. Marion said he will try to come up with something else. It is a pdf. file. Can't upload it. Dam, not really any good info anyway. Will try to change file type.

 

[Houm_WA]

So are you implying that if you pull the correct suspension fuses, at any time, the vehicle would then be incapable of lowering itself?

So then for instance, if you were on the trail and wanted to avoid the risk of being stuck on your bumpstops, you could simply pull the fuses at the trail head?

 

[hell pie]

Yes, pulling the correct suspension fuses will keep the vehicle from raising or lowering by itself. The fuses are F3E and F26E, both in the engine compartment, and also F35P in the passenger compartment. I got this info again from bbyer's posts on disco3. You'll get a suspension fault warning, but the vehicle will not lower. I don't think this is meant to be a long term solution for anything. In my case, it was just something I did to keep the vehicle usable while awaiting a replacement EAS compressor. The vehicle slowly began to go down after a few days, but I think that was due to a different issue (leak perhaps?) You could pull the fuses at the trail head, but I think you would lose a lot of off-roading functionality, such as cross linkage.

 

[Houm_WA]

Yes your conclusion is correct; you'd lose off-road functionality and hence articulation. I suppose that the thing to do is just have the necessary stuff for a field repair:

sensors, maybe some 6mm tubing, straight-unions and a knife/pruners...and of course an external air compressor! Then theoretically a person can, if they are on the bumpstops, remove the fuses and then cut the airlines, splice into them with the union and pump up each airsping.

...hope that never hapens, but is this not feasible? Hammy? Ryan? Anyone with some hands-on experience care to chime in?

 

[hell pie]

This company makes a product that does exactly what you are describing.

http://www.opcionesavanzadas.com/faskiting.htm

Each air spring has one line that allows air to go in or out. The Faskit unit splices into each of the four air spring lines. Using switches on their unit, you can then independently close or open the four lines to prevent any air going in or out. You can also attach an external air supply and fill each air spring. From the looks of it, there are no electronic parts, just basic mechanical parts. This would be a great project.

 

[Houm_WA]

That looks pretty slick, especially for 325 Euros.

I just spent $22 (incl shipping) for some air line unions. That'd get me off the trail and could be used to re-connect the lines once the EAS is repaired. Anyone know if the airlines are located in a place that can be accessed on the trail?....feasibly.

 

[blackforestham]

In theory, the Fastkit system sounds plausible. I just hesitate to believe the hype due to the required psi to inflate the bags. Our systems rely on pressure, not volume for inflation. At 215psi or whatever it actually is, your standard compressor or "gas station" will not be able to fully pressurize. I have used a 400 psi compressor in construction and it was sweet. Made in Japan and quite spendy -

http://www.google.com/products/cata...sult&ct=image&resnum=3&sqi=2&ved=0CDoQ8gIwAg#

So all you really need is a portable generator, high pressure compressor and an adult beverage to toast yourself as the system re-inflates.

 

[hell pie]

Somebody needs to make a bulletproof compressor like that for the LR3 air suspension! My refrigerator compressor is still running after 10 years of daily cycling. Wish the same would be true for the suspension compressor.

From what I've read, the air springs are typically at about 130 psi for the front and even less for the rear. It looks like the actual number is 240 psi for the air tank and not 215 as I originally stated.

 

[Mach1s]

I am picking up a used Expedition compressor tomorrow from my friend @ Ford. I will post pics of the pump. Took my OEM pump apart today... Everything is good but the small circuit board @ the base of the motor. If anyone has an old pump laying around, I will pay shipping??? I will post pics of the OEM pump as well.

 

[Houm_WA]

So while schematically what I'm saying will work...the little Black & Decker electric pump that I have won't do me any good on the LR3, is that what y'all are saying?