Transmission taking too long to shift

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Tapps33

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Sorry, late to the party here. First, we have a ZF 6HP28 in these trucks, not the 26. For the most part, there are no differences, but it's the internals to the mechatronic that are slightly different.

As for his issues, I agree with everyone above, change the fluid, and replace the mechatronic seals. If it were me, I'd just go ahead and do the Sonnax Zip kit and new solenoids while I was in there. Mainly because getting the pain on and off, and then charging the fluid properly is a giant pain in the rear....so I only want to go in once...not twice. The only down side is that you have to order a new separator plate when doing the zip kit, and in theory, you need to get the old mechatronic out in order to verify you get the right one....although I have always found it to be the A163/B163 plate. (but I've only worked on 8 different LR transmissions...knowing my luck, yours would be different.)

As for how to add the fluid, you don't even need stands, put it in off road height and you have enough room to slide in from the passenger side. Look around, and there are some neat little tube extenders in order to help you get over/around the cat when filling. Just be careful, if you do use stands, make sure you get 4 of them and get the whole vehicle level, because if the front is in the air and not the rear, you'll get a false "reading." FYI, the "reading" is one to three drips a second. give or take. (Google changing the trans pan, AB has a great video for it.)

Here's a generic tool kit off amazon:


I splurged and picked this system up from FCP Euro....definitely makes it A LOT easier and I know exactly how much went in...but I've used mine 3 times already, so it's kinda been worth it:


As for transmission temp, I just use an IR temp gun...or you could use the GAP tool, but honestly, all you really need is the vehicle to be at running temp. So, just let it idle for a hot minute (pun intended) and you should be fine, in the absence of a GAP tool or IR temp gun.

Quick edit, referencing your temp, 40C sounds about right. Also, if you don't pull the mechatronic and just swap fluid, plan on about 10 liters, if you do pull it, plan on 14 liters. You'll probably have some leftover...but that's not a bad thing.
 

Al Pizzica

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Agree you do not need jack stands or for the wheels to be free moving to do this procedure. I've done it twice and you don't need to. It's not just a waste of time its a dangerous one at that. Once you refill the first time, you put it in all the gears for a 10 seconds to fill up all the channels and then you go through the final fill/level procedure which you can do in off road height with a glove and a fluid evacuator/fill pump quite easily.
 

ftillier

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How do you go through all the gears? Or do you mean just D and R? Can you shift beyond 2nd while the car is stopped? I know snow/gravel mode will have you start in 2nd, but assumed the TCU would prevent you from starting in 3rd or higher.
 

Tapps33

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You don’t need to manually shift 1-6, just, R-N-D-N-R-P. Just make sure you pause for 10-15 seconds in each gear to allow for all the air to be purged from the channels.
 

itsaguything

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I suppose you could connect to the ODBII port to read the temperature but I just use a hand held IR.
I don’t have the document in front of me but if I recall accurately, doesn’t ZF state shifts in the transmission during the refill process??
 

Longtrail

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Folks - Thank you so much for the additional help. I was going to tackle the job this weekend but I think I'm going to punt for a few days. I'm reading mixed advice on here (I say that with gratitude):

- stands vs no stands
- all gears vs R-N-D-N-R-P
- fluid only vs zipkit vs solenoids vs solenoids + zip kit

I've already committed to just doing fluid initially; if I have to go under again then so be it. I'll do additional research and report back on the other topics! The good thing is there's no rush. FWIW I have both the GAP tool and an IT tool; and, I don't relish the vehicle just on jack stands, I concur that it seems risky.

Good to know that it's the 6HP28 transmission, I suspected this.

The vehicle will be on level ground.

I have a fluid pump, hoping that will work.

Right now I have 7 liters; how come the British Atlantic kits only provide 7 liters, there's a discrepancy there as well.
 

Tapps33

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Folks - Thank you so much for the additional help. I was going to tackle the job this weekend but I think I'm going to punt for a few days. I'm reading mixed advice on here (I say that with gratitude):

- stands vs no stands
- all gears vs R-N-D-N-R-P
- fluid only vs zipkit vs solenoids vs solenoids + zip kit

I've already committed to just doing fluid initially; if I have to go under again then so be it. I'll do additional research and report back on the other topics! The good thing is there's no rush. FWIW I have both the GAP tool and an IT tool; and, I don't relish the vehicle just on jack stands, I concur that it seems risky.

Good to know that it's the 6HP28 transmission, I suspected this.

The vehicle will be on level ground.

I have a fluid pump, hoping that will work.

Right now I have 7 liters; how come the British Atlantic kits only provide 7 liters, there's a discrepancy there as well.
Aside from the sheer cost of the fluid, the beauty of “just doing” fluid is that you don’t have to pull the pan. Once you pull the pan, that’s when all those options come into play.

That said, in truth, I went in the first time I did mine and only swapped mechanic seals and upgraded to the new metal pan and it shifted like a brand new transmission. I only went back in because it started acting up…and what I thought was a mechatronic issue turned out to be a leaking trans cooler in the front of the engine.
 

Longtrail

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Aside from the sheer cost of the fluid, the beauty of “just doing” fluid is that you don’t have to pull the pan. Once you pull the pan, that’s when all those options come into play.

That said, in truth, I went in the first time I did mine and only swapped mechanic seals and upgraded to the new metal pan and it shifted like a brand new transmission. I only went back in because it started acting up…and what I thought was a mechatronic issue turned out to be a leaking trans cooler in the front of the engine.
Thanks, yep fluid only at the moment, if I have to do it again then so be it, the fluid will only get "cleaner" as a result. I will take the pan off hence the pictures. How much fluid do I need, is it the 7L per British Atlantic, I suspect it is per one of the ZF manuals I found:

1727540879302.png


I'm still doing research!
 

ftillier

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I am always worried about going under the car without jackstands, especially with it turned on - what if the EAS system detects an issue and drops it to the bump stops? I would suggest extended height, with jackstands just to make sure it can't fall on you while you're underneath. I can't imagine getting it into 6th gear while on stands, you'd certainly want the wheels off or you'd have a risky situation with those heavy wheels spinning at highway speeds.

So my recommendation would be:
- extended height
- jack stands for safety
- RNDNRP for gears, once in "normal mode" and once in "winter/gravel" mode just to get 1st and 2nd going. I have no basis for this other than it can't hurt.
- fluid/pan/filter

When I had ours done, it shifted so much better just with the fluid/filter change. They did do the seal for the wires going into the transmission, but don't think they touched the mechatronic otherwise.
 

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