Your experience about LR4 V8 5.0

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jlach993

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The V6 struggled in the Explorer, I can't imagine what it was like with an extra 1500lbs to haul around
I recall going up an incline where my foot was almost down to the floor on the gas. The engine raced up and the tranny downshifted and it gained speed so slowly. It was horrible. I felt bad for the engine with that amount of weight LOL.


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ggrupea

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The V6 struggled in the Explorer, I can't imagine what it was like with an extra 1500lbs to haul around

On LR3, the problem it have, is related with the distribution chain. You have to stay checking it all the time. But the electrónic in both cars is very different. On my oppinion, is better than the V6 2.7 diesel engines.
 

xrp86

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I think a big thing for the V8 is it’s well geared.. I pull around my can am x3 like nothing.. pulls hard and down shifts perfectly in time before loosing momentum.

It’s about 4,500lbs with trailer.

And I’m pushing 195,000 miles
 

DonMitsu

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We have 90k miles on our 2011. We've used it to tow a travel trailer and love to take it off road. We've changed the oil every 5k miles and the timing chain has yet to make any noise and is still tight. It's been a great motor for us.
 

djkaosone

'11 LR4 HSE LUX 5.0L V8
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I've personally have a 2011 LR4 v8 5.0 HSE LUX and drove all different models of LR4s including the SCV6, and I would hands down take the 5.0L V8 any day. The initial torque is 100x better than the SCV6. I off road mine and torque is important to me. Towing is great to the point where I don't even realize I'm towing something back there.

The SCV6 would probably give you better city driving, but the lack of initial boost is a turn off for me. Once it get's going it's fine.
 

Jimmy Brooks

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Personally I’m a Petrol head so I absolutely adore the 5.0 V8. Failure points that are bound to happen are the timing guides and the crossover pipes. I’ve personally only had an issue with the crossover at 111k. Watch transmission and make sure you know that the right oem parts are being used, and you should be good. These engines are prone to oil leaks. Personally mine has a couple minor ones that I’ve monitored over 7k miles and the oil level hasn’t dipped below max so I’d say that’s the least of your problems. If you have the opportunity to snag one I 100% say go for it.
 

wthammett

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5.0 are solid. Tows better than my full-size trucks...

Powerful
Feels light and nimble for a heavy beast
Faster than my D5 supercharged!!

My man said it best, it's powerful but somehow feels light.
Other than the coolant pipes and the 'click-click-click' sound upon start-up sometimes she's been great. One of the best cars and engines I've ever had - 185,000 miles as of today.
 

mpinco

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I've personally have a 2011 LR4 v8 5.0 HSE LUX and drove all different models of LR4s including the SCV6, and I would hands down take the 5.0L V8 any day. The initial torque is 100x better than the SCV6. I off road mine and torque is important to me. Towing is great to the point where I don't even realize I'm towing something back there.

The SCV6 would probably give you better city driving, but the lack of initial boost is a turn off for me. Once it get's going it's fine.

Agreed!
IMG_20200626_140521~2.jpg
 

KenBelt

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i recently picked up a LR4 (with 5.0 V8) with 140k miles.
CARFAX indicated it was maintained at the dealer through 125k miles.

But since i wasn't sure what exactly was done during the maintenance..i did the following as preventative:
replace PCV valves
replaced air filters (cabin and engine)
replaced front and rear crossover pipes
replaced coolant
replaced spark plugs
cleaned throttle body
Oil and filter change
Replaced transmission filter and pan.
Replaced transmission fluid (2x) - in order to get as much of the old stuff out.
Replaced diff fluids (front and rear)
Replace transfer case fluid
Ran a can of BG 44K though the fuel tank

Repairs that were needed:
vacuum pump gasket - oil leak at front of engine
bad left lower control arm - squeaked over bumps.

Optional repair i chose to have done:
Parking brake was broken. Required new actuator. $800 part, $1000 labor. (USD)

Id really recommend you check the timing chain before purchase. Use a long screwdriver and poke at the chain from through the oil fill cap (with engine off). if its loose, its a sign of failing chain tensioner ($$$$). use your judgement and compare to how taught a bicycle chain should be.

Great tip on how to check timing chain tension...Thanks!
 

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