LR4 Transmission Fluid Change: Pan Swap Option

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txfromwi

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OK, I took another look.

Looks like removing the protective shield, the big one under the engine, will allow access from the top of the frame member back to those 4 questionable bolts. Looks to be plenty of space when the shield is removed.

But does anyone have any actual hands on knowledge?
 

Michael Gain

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OK, I took another look.

Looks like removing the protective shield, the big one under the engine, will allow access from the top of the frame member back to those 4 questionable bolts. Looks to be plenty of space when the shield is removed.

But does anyone have any actual hands on knowledge?

Yes. I talk about it here and show the tool that I used to remove the bolts. https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/what-did-you-do-with-your-lr4-today.42436/page-9

It's not a bad job and I posted the procedure somewhere.

Basically, remove the heat shield. Drain the pan. Remove the bolts. Pull straight down on the pan until the filter neck disengages from the mech unit. Then, levitate pan over the front cross member, rotate 90 degrees to clear the cat, and lower to the ground. Install is the reverse.
 

CRYA

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Yes. I talk about it here and show the tool that I used to remove the bolts. https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/what-did-you-do-with-your-lr4-today.42436/page-9

It's not a bad job and I posted the procedure somewhere.

Basically, remove the heat shield. Drain the pan. Remove the bolts. Pull straight down on the pan until the filter neck disengages from the mech unit. Then, levitate pan over the front cross member, rotate 90 degrees to clear the cat, and lower to the ground. Install is the reverse.
Did you saw or use the "****" method on filter neck? Just curious what the consensus is on the various methods of pan swap.
 

txfromwi

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Yes, I saw that thanks.

For the 8 speed, I pulled the large shield and yes, you can access those front most bolts over the top of the body member. Looks straightforward.

For the 8 speed it's either OEM at about $270 or an aftermarket at Rimmer Bros. for about $90.

(The AB kit is for the 6 speed).

Any reason to choose one over the other other than cost?
 

Michael Gain

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Yes, I saw that thanks.

For the 8 speed, I pulled the large shield and yes, you can access those front most bolts over the top of the body member. Looks straightforward.

For the 8 speed it's either OEM at about $270 or an aftermarket at Rimmer Bros. for about $90.

(The AB kit is for the 6 speed).

Any reason to choose one over the other other than cost?

I got mine off of Amazon. I ordered the OEM ZF pan first ($220), but it arrived with a damaged gasket. I returned it and got one from Miami British ($119) and installed. The only difference I saw was gasket quality. The OEM rubber gasket seemed more pliable and better quality. However, the cheaper one installed just fine and had no leaks.
 

Michael Gain

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Just to confirm I understand - the new assembly just slides right in on the 8 speed? There is enough space between the transmission and the frame member?

Correct. You still need to rotate for removal and install, but the filter neck is short enough to allow clearance between the crossmember and mech unit.
 

txfromwi

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SORRY! But Land Rover instructions in the Shop Manual are just incompatible with reality. Need your opinion.

2016 LR4 8 speed transmission

Pan coming soon, just doing a final instructions check...


Rover Manual says:
Run it through the gears.
Put it in Neutral
Hold at 2000 rpm for at least 30 seconds.
Fine, that's easy.

And now I quote, via copy and paste:

"Move the TCS to the park position and allow the
engine to idle between 600rpm and 750 rpm.
Make sure that the transmission oil has exceeded a
temperature of 69 degrees celsius so that the thermostat
has fully opened allowing full circulation of the transmission
fluid. Allow the temperature to drop below 30 degrees
celsius before checking the transmission oil level."


Just didn't sound realistic - and it's NOT.

(and it hurts to do what you see below... ouch...)

It's 80F here today, 27C
In the garage, garage door open.
Using IID Tool
Transmission oil ain't NEVER getting to 69C at idle.
In fact, it takes, and I timed it..
28 minutes at 3,000rpm to get transmission oil temp to 69C.
(So that means I am in the vehicle gassing myself....and beating the crap out of the vehicle..for half an hour..plus the below...)

And it ain't NEVER going to cool off again either
Once it does get to 69C
Leave run at idle
Turned on garage exhaust fan, dual overhead ceiling fans and a large table fan pointed under the vehicle from the front fender
Opened hood and removed top of engine plastic cover
And wow, she is HOT!
After 15 minutes the transmission oil temperature is 72C
So it's not cooling off, it's just getting hotter.
Abandon test
And I just don't ever see it cooling off to 30C unless this is performed in Alaska in winter...

When final hot fill times comes, probably early next week,
I propose to just
start it
run the gears
hold 2000rpm for at least 30 seconds
make sure transmission is at least 30C
(per the ZF instructions in this thread several pages back 30C-50C)
do the hot fill.

And abandon the 69C paragraph.

Comments?
Thanks.
 

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