$1k for Duratracks NOW vs $3k for ko2s on steel LATER

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morrisdl

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I would not be comfortable going <20psi on my 275/65r18 duratracs

I always get an alignment with new tires. The first 5,000 miles were quite. Used to rotated tires with every oil change, but the inside shoulders of the rears would cup. With rotation eventually all 4 were cupped and loud.

I also recently replaced very worn rear wheel bearings and control arms - certainly didn't help tire wear. Best alignment I have had in years now.
 

Bryan Jones

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As someone else stated,I wouldn't air down my 255/55r19's <30psi
 

Fuji4

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Likewise on the not airing down below 25psi. that would be my min Psi. I have had teh duratracs and now have the conti ATcontacts. the Conti's have way less road noise. The duratracs were killer tires, but about 40k miles in they got little noisy. I got 52k Miles out of them though, which is great. We will see how the conti's do over time but they are a less aggressive, more AT tire, and the duratrac has chunkier lugs, so the noise thing makes sense.
 

Troy A

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As someone else stated,I wouldn't air down my 255/55r19's <30psi

When Andrew St Pierre White took his LR4 up and over Baboons pass in Lesotho Africa he went the other direction and put the tires up to MAX pressure and let the traction control do the work. He said it was the only way to protect the sidewalls.


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m_lars

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Good point. All my Duratrac sidewall cuts occurred in KY, NC, VA, PA, WV, VT, and NY. All very rocky. Maybe the perfect tire for FL and UT

Jeeps and LR# are apples and oranges. My buddy with JKU hates same Duratrac E rated tires for harsh ride. Same tire rides great on LC80 and LR3.
Not UT (Utah)! That’s where I’m at and they didn’t do me well.

My reference to the JKU is because fully outfitted they weigh as much as the GVWR of an LR. They air down lower and have more sidewall. All things that require a strong sidewall. It’s relevant to the sidewall strength discussion. In a previous discussion I was lambasted for saying you don’t need E rated tires for the LR. E rated tires run just about double the weight rating needed for the GVWR of the LR. But apparently everyone other than me overloads their rig and only drives on 2 wheels.

My point really has been don’t be fooled into believing that an E rated tire automatically gives you an off-road able sidewall. The Duratrac proves that is not true.
 

m_lars

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Yeah I don't think we should be comparing them at all. This conversation got me curious so I went and looked at typical wheel/tire/load combos of the JKU vs. the LR4
I was referring to the modified rock crawlers that are approaching 7000lbs when outfitted, not stock. 1 ton axles, 37”+ tires, armor, etc. Add lower air down and taller sidewalls I’d say they need a strong sidewall. E rated tires are not the norm.
 

hatch

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I don’t know how much time you all spend driving in deep sand, but in my experience, going >15psi = getting stuck. I know several beach areas that won’t even let you on with more than 15 lbs in your tires because they know it means, before long, they’ll be sending someone to winch you out.

I’ve had my OEM Contis down to 12 and 13 many times. Didn’t love it, and would probably push 15-18 with newer tires, but a tire that can’t be aired down to at least 15-18 is, in my experience, useless in deep sand.

Are those of you cautioning not dropping below 25 or 30 speaking from actual experience in sand?

Thanks for the continued thoughts.

And continued thanks to Land Rover for putting these monumentally stupid 19” tires on my LR4 and not even extending the courtesy of offering 18” wheels, meaning that I have to ship them from a third party on the other side of the ocean if I want to pony up an extra $1700 to get into real tires.
 

Troy A

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And continued thanks to Land Rover for putting these monumentally stupid 19” tires on my LR4 and not even extending the courtesy of offering 18” wheels, meaning that I have to ship them from a third party on the other side of the ocean if I want to pony up an extra $1700 to get into real tires.

LOL. Or 16s.


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Troy A

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I was referring to the modified rock crawlers that are approaching 7000lbs when outfitted, not stock. 1 ton axles, 37”+ tires, armor, etc. Add lower air down and taller sidewalls I’d say they need a strong sidewall. E rated tires are not the norm.

I really think the load index is a red herring and that the real value of the E-rating is the 10 plies and the tread depth and ideally the hopefully strengthened sidewalls that should theoretically come along for the ride with the 10 plies/tread.

I will continue to strongly and respectfully disagree that the highly modified JKU running at 7000 lb (2000 lb over factory GVWR) running 37" tires on 15" wheels with 9"-11" sidewalls is in any way relevant to this conversation.

I think we can all agree that 1) more sidewall is good; 2) strong sidewalls are important; and 3) whatever tire you can get to deliver 1 and 2 is good.

Too bad there is no objective measurement for sidewall strength.


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