5.0 supercharged into an LR4?

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greiswig

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Oh, I was just suggesting that you might be able to find out what steel ARP uses for the stretch/strength qualities they want, get some rod stock and have it threaded at both ends a la ARP.

Take this advice with a shaker of salt, but...I would guess the head bolts across an aluminum head are more likely to need the TTY-style bolts, because of thermal expansion of a thick aluminum cylinder head. IIRC, the thermal expansion coefficient of Al is almost twice that of cast iron. So it may well be that you can re-use the bearing cap bolts. My understanding is that when you torque them properly, you're not ACTUALLY going outside their elastic range, you are purposely not doing so. So they shouldn't have actually yielded, unless some thermal expansion caused them to stretch past the yield point.

My Unimog, though, had a cast iron head, and they strongly recommended not reusing the old head bolts, claiming they were TTY. I reused them anyway on one trip (out of necessity), and it never had an issue after that. Torque sequence went just like they were new, too. So I suspect it was a CYA thing on the part of Ma Benz.
 

Tapps33

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Hmmm....good idea....now I need to find a jaguar factory manual!

Google machine, here I come!!!
 

Tapps33

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Oh, I was just suggesting that you might be able to find out what steel ARP uses for the stretch/strength qualities they want, get some rod stock and have it threaded at both ends a la ARP.

Take this advice with a shaker of salt, but...I would guess the head bolts across an aluminum head are more likely to need the TTY-style bolts, because of thermal expansion of a thick aluminum cylinder head. IIRC, the thermal expansion coefficient of Al is almost twice that of cast iron. So it may well be that you can re-use the bearing cap bolts. My understanding is that when you torque them properly, you're not ACTUALLY going outside their elastic range, you are purposely not doing so. So they shouldn't have actually yielded, unless some thermal expansion caused them to stretch past the yield point.

My Unimog, though, had a cast iron head, and they strongly recommended not reusing the old head bolts, claiming they were TTY. I reused them anyway on one trip (out of necessity), and it never had an issue after that. Torque sequence went just like they were new, too. So I suspect it was a CYA thing on the part of Ma Benz.
Yeah, I agree, one would think given the difference in expansion coefficients of the dissimilar metals the bolts should be ok....but I also thought the whole point of TTY was you torques them until they yielded....and it was this stretch yield that give you your compression. That said, it the bolts are indeed grade 10.9 or 12.9 like I suspect they're supposed to be, one would think they would rip the aluminum threads out long before they ever stretched to their true yield point. I dunno....it's a bit of a conundrum...albeit a potentially self made one...

Now that I think about it, I re-used head bolts in a lot of my Honda engine builds....and I was even running some decent boost with a lot of them....of course I was also very young...and breaking down wasn't that big a deal....and I couldn't afford pretty much anything at that point....so ARP was definitely out of the question! However! This is my wife's car...and her DD...if the engine leaves her stranded with our twin toddlers....I may have to move in with one of you guys!! LOL!!
 

Tapps33

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Nothing to report right now. Still working on it, I just had to put it on the back burner for a few weeks. I should be finishing the tear down and starting the machining in the next week or so.

Sorry for the delay, I've had to put out a few fires here first...but now, this project is about to become my priority!
 

Tapps33

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SDD tool just arrived!

I'm going to try and install the SC ECU into the LR4 and see if I can get it functioning. Yes, It'll throw a crap ton of engine codes because it's not the SC engine, but as long as I can get the immobilizer to accept the new ECU, it should....and I stress should...be a direct swap once I finish the engine rebuild.

Hopefully @SCV8LR4 is right and this is truly possible!
 

Tapps33

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Well, I'm finally getting off my rear and making some progress. I've been playing with my SDD tool and thankfully, the company I purchased from is going to team viewer in and program the used ECU. Fingers crossed it works!

Also, finally got the block all torn down and it's headed to the machine shop!! (I should add, this is the point where my friends/parents come look and say, "That thing is never gonna run again! What have you done?!?!?").

IMG_3770.jpeg
IMG_3771.jpeg



Unfortunately though, I had a main cap shoulder bolt snap off.... Hopefully the machine shop can extract it....without messing up the aluminum block.
IMG_3772.jpeg


Fingers crossed when the machining is done, everything is within spec! I'm a little worried about the #2 cylinder as it looks like the spun bearing provided a little too much play and the bottom of the cylinder looks like it may be worn....time will tell.

Also, you can kinda see in the above picture the oil squirter on the inside of the block. As I understand it, the presence of the oil squirters is the only difference between the NA and SC blocks....but it's a big one! (I'll take a better picture today when I take it to the machine shop.)

I also think I'm going to shift the rebuild to a new string, that way it'll be a good reference for anyone else crazy enough to attempt this! I'll keep up with the updates about the SC swap as I move forward....specifically whether the ECU programs in.
 

Shaggy

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Well, I'm finally getting off my rear and making some progress. I've been playing with my SDD tool and thankfully, the company I purchased from is going to team viewer in and program the used ECU. Fingers crossed it works!

Also, finally got the block all torn down and it's headed to the machine shop!! (I should add, this is the point where my friends/parents come look and say, "That thing is never gonna run again! What have you done?!?!?").

View attachment 21692View attachment 21693


Unfortunately though, I had a main cap shoulder bolt snap off.... Hopefully the machine shop can extract it....without messing up the aluminum block.
View attachment 21694

Fingers crossed when the machining is done, everything is within spec! I'm a little worried about the #2 cylinder as it looks like the spun bearing provided a little too much play and the bottom of the cylinder looks like it may be worn....time will tell.

Also, you can kinda see in the above picture the oil squirter on the inside of the block. As I understand it, the presence of the oil squirters is the only difference between the NA and SC blocks....but it's a big one! (I'll take a better picture today when I take it to the machine shop.)

I also think I'm going to shift the rebuild to a new string, that way it'll be a good reference for anyone else crazy enough to attempt this! I'll keep up with the updates about the SC swap as I move forward....specifically whether the ECU programs in.

Wow! That this is torn down for sure! So what will the machine shop be doing overall?
 

Tapps33

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Well, a lot of it depends on how much it's gonna cost...but, here's a list of what I want them to do:

-Hot tank the engine block
-Hone the cylinders
-Extract the broken main bolt
-line hone the crank journals (Due to the ARP upgrades)
-re-deck the cylinder head mating surfaces
-Balance and hot tank the crank shaft
-Modify the con rods to accept ARP rod bolts
-Line Hone con rods (if ARP bolts used)
-Hot tank the Cylinder heads
-Re-deck the cylinder heads
-Valve job for the cylinder heads (need to properly seat all new valves)
-Install new valve guides (if I can find new ones)
-Clean some various parts in the hot tank
-Install the M11 head stud update kit (I may do this on my own as there's a really nice jig that come with the kit...but if it isn't too pricey, I may just have him do it...he can probably get it A LOT straighter than I can)

Things I may have done if I have any money leftover:

-weight match all piston/rod assemblies (I have a scale, but it's only "so" accurate. If his is better than mine, he can make sure all the piston/rod assemblies are perfectly matched)
-Port and polish the cylinder heads for better flow (my guess is this is gonna be WAY outta my budget)

I'm sure I'm forgetting something, but that's the basic list....right now. :hmmmm:
 

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