Sorry, it'll only let me attach 5 pics at a time so I have to break this up.
With the valve block rotated, I was able to get the butter most hose off:
After that I was able to remove the final hose, as well as the old voss fittings. I apologize, I forgot to get a pic of the Voss fitting removal, but it's fairly simply, you'll need to slide the threaded portion back a little to expose the brass "collar that actually gets pinched and holds the hose in place. I use to very small flat head screw drivers and gently pry the open end of the brass collar apart then you can easily wiggle/work the collar off the hose. Yes, these fittings can be re-used if you don't have new ones. Simply screw them into the new valve block. One note of caution though; Be careful when prying the collar apart as I made the mistake of pushing it towards the threaded portion and actually wedged it back into it's seat...the only problem was the "bump" on the hose wouldn't allow me to move the threaded portion back any further and I had to do some serious digging to get the collar out.
Here I've started to install the new voss fittings on the hoses. I did manage to drop the first one I was putting on and it literally took me 45 minutes find it....I looked everywhere. can you spot it? (I made it a little more visible for the picture, but in case you drop your in this spot, there's a perfectly sized notch in the strut mount...once you see it...seriously...45 minutes trying to find it!)
In case you couldn't find it, look just above and to the right of the green hose. I angled it slightly so I could get a good picture....it was pretty much flush with the mount and you can't really get your head in there to look.
After that, I started with the green hose as that was the "inner" hose on the rear of the block. I found that once I got it threaded I was able to just "spin the block onto the hose" then tighten it with a wrench. After that, the hoses got a little more difficult. I totally forgot I had used the last of my clear orange grease and my wife had my car, so spray silicone was the best I could find on short notice. Not at all ideal, but better than nothing. I was finally able to get all the lines threaded back into the valve block...and because my 4 year olds were running around there wasn't even any cursing.....externally that is! The lines aren't that bad, they're just easy to cross thread and because I didn't have the ring lube, they're very stiff to turn, and because you're already limited on access, it can get a little frustrating. Just stick with it and try not to lose your cool and you'll get it!
Here's mine with the lines reconnected just waiting on the electrical connector:
Obviously, the last step is to reconnect the electrical connector, but before I did I added a healthy serving if di-electric grease to protect the pins and connectors. I found a bunch of dust and what not inside the connector when I took it off, so I figured a little extra protection couldn't hurt....plus I do it on all my marine and aircraft engines...so, why not my car too?