Air Suspension Performance

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BigBriDogGuy

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@ugmw177 did you have to program it with a GAP tool or anything like that or was it plug-n-play?

I can see myself pulling the genuine Hitachi and servicing it while installing the cheap knock off and using that in the interim (if it works). I'll still return it if that's an option. They should, I ordered it last night and requested it be cancelled the following morning.
 
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ugmw177

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@ugmw177 did you have to program it with a GAP tool or anything like that or was it plug-n-play?

I can see myself pulling the genuine Hitachi and servicing it while installing the cheap knock off and using that in the interim (if it works). I'll still return it if that's an option. They should, I ordered it last night and requested it be cancelled the following morning.
Plug and play if you are going from Hitachi to Hitachi or "knock off" hitachi
 

Longtrail

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C1A13-64 Pressure does not decrease when venting gallery.

Ahh yes, exactly the issue I had per our previous correspondence. Without the GAP tool you have no way to identify the RLM (Ride Level Module) ECU's firmware, is it flashed for Hitachi or AMK? This may be controversial but Land Rover made a decision for one reason or another to switch to AMK; if I were spending $$$'s on a new compressor I'd follow what Land Rover engineers decided to do; so purchase an AMK compressor and re-flash the RLM ECU with AMK firmware.
 

BigBriDogGuy

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Mechanic friend of mine gave me a call from his shop. He has it apart and says the parts look identical (Hitachi/Hitachi knockoff) but he said it's going to take some extra time to swap out since the bolts securing the old unit are heavily rusted. The weird thing is I have been underneath the vehicle and there is only superficial rust on the frame and any exposed areas that you can see. I wonder why there would be more rust up inside the vehicle where the compressor is located. I trust the guy so I'm sure he is telling the truth. Bottom line, it's going to take longer to swap out than he originally estimated. I'm fine with it if it works because the knockoff was super cheap compared to the OEM and my mechanic friend is very reasonable with the rate he charges for shop hours. Not to mention the fact that, after having been involved in a few DIY projects on this rig, I have come to understand what a PITA some of this stuff can be once you dig into it. I'd rather pay him to struggle with it. He has the shop and the tools and the supplies and an inventory of new fasteners and the expertise to get it done a lot quicker, easier, and better than I ever could. I'll update this post once I find out if it worked.
 

ugmw177

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not sure why but the fasteners (three of them) holding the compressor bracket to the frame seem to rust/corrode more than some of the other stuff. Perhaps the plastic/foam shell holds water and or road salt and cannot be rinsed off as easily by hose or rain as the open areas. Anyhow last one I changed, all three of the bolts and their speed nuts were rusty and difficult to remove. I replaced all of them and the aluminum bracket which was also showing a lot of corrosion. I typically put a smear of anti sieze on the bolts when reinstalling as well. Hope it works out well for you.
 

Longtrail

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The job when the bolts are not rusty is pretty quick; I took mine off a few times; probably within 30minutes (off and on) once I'd done it enough times (which I did!)! Keep us posted BigBri.
 

San Moritz LR4

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Hi All,

Newer owner of 2011 LR4 HSE v8. Now 113k mikes.

Question on everyone’s compressor, how long does it take to go from Access to Off-Road?

Just recently rebuilt the original Hitachi Compressor and refreshed the valve blocks.

Everything seems to be in order, but going from access to off-road I feel that last push takes a bit (albeit less than a minute in total).

Curious if should get a new compressor or not.

Hi, I just got a new compressor, center valve block assembly and two new front air struts. ($2800) The rise from Access to Off-Road is 4". The back struts go from 34" to 38" in about 25 seconds. The front take about 35 seconds for the first 3 inches and 98 seconds to get to the full 4 inches. At 2 minutes 10 seconds the compressor stop cycling.

I am not sure if that is good or bad. But it does seem to me that the front takes a noticeable bit longer than before.

FYI - My compressor failed at 178,000+ miles. The root cause of the compressor failure was a pin hole in the front right air strut. Causing the air compressor to run nonstop until it burned up the motor.
 

BigBriDogGuy

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The good news is the cheapo compressor works, LR4 lifts and lowers in all 3 positions without any faults.

The bad news is my mechanic friend lost the key fob somewhere inside the LR4. We know this because you could start it without the key fob. You couldn't lock it, either with the other key fob I had on me or by pressing the square button on the door handles. Essentially, anyone could walk up to the unlocked car (that you can't lock) press the button, start it, and drive away. We searched every inch of the interior. Moved all the seats up and down and forward and back. Folded up the middle row. Put up the 3rd row seats. Looked in the engine compartment. Glove compartments. Refrigerator. Everywhere, for well over an hour, maybe two. The car ate the key fob and it is somewhere inside of it.

I finally left the vehicle with my mechanic friend and he locked up his shop. He says he knows a guy that does body work and has a wand device that should be able to put a more precise locate on the fob. I also read online that you could go around the interior with a sheet of tin foil and that would block the signal from the key fob and get the dash to flash the no key warning. The mechanic is prepared to pull the seats. I just don't want him to damage the vehicle by tearing it apart in his quest to find the key fob he should have kept safe and secure to begin with.
 

f1racer328

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If you can start and drive it without your spare key fob it has to be somewhat close to the driver in my experience.
 

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