DIY Oil Change for LR4

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Fields Carlisle

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I don't believe that is accurate. Group IV/V oils are available in USA but they are difficult to find at your FLAPS / McParts, or at least difficult to confirm as Group IV (PAO) and Group V (esters). I use Red Line in all my vehicles besides the LR4, and it's a Group IV/V base stock. Some of the high-end products from Amsoil and Motul are also Group IV/V. Most people don't want to pay the $12-$15 per quart pricetag on these oils. The so-called "fully synthetic" Group III oils available at $6-$8 per quart sound like the same thing for half the price, but they are not the same. I'm not aware of any Group IV/V oil in that price range.

Some manufacturers offer a handful of Group IV/V oils (i.e., Mobil-1) but the vast majority of current Mobil-1 products in USA are Group III. Worse yet, only a few viscosities are offered by Mobil-1 in Group IV/V; so they aren't an option for my needs. As always, YMMV, etc. A bit more info on base stocks is at this link:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil

About the Liqui Moly AA oil, yes, as I wrote in my previous post, it is not "approved by JLR. However it is "recommended" by Liqui Moly. And yes I understand those are 2 different things. I simply found it interesting that Liqui Moly shows four different products as suitable for the AJ133 5.0L engine used in the LR4 V8; while only one of them is supposedly approved by JLR.
Whatever oil you use, the most important thing is the viscosity and additives package. There are low-SAPS, high-SAPS, and much more that goes into selecting an appropriate oil. Some companies with great oils don't seek manufacturer approval as they don't have the funds.


Looking at Redline's oils... It's hard to tell if they are claiming 100% PAO or esther oil, or if it is just predominately esther-based.
 
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gsxr

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Whatever oil you use, the most important thing is the viscosity and additives package. There are low-SAPS, high-SAPS, and much more that goes into selecting an appropriate oil. Some companies with great oils don't seek manufacturer approval as they don't have the funds.
I agree 100%. It's a complicated topic.


Looking at Redline's oils... It's hard to tell if they are claiming 100% PAO or esther oil, or if it is just predominately esther-based.
Red Line is a blend of PAO and ester bases. Their tech department is very helpful both via email and phone, if you want to find out more details. Most of their street-based oils have politically incorrect levels of ZDDP which I like, and a healthy dose of moly as a bonus. To my knowledge, none of their motor oils have Group III base stocks.

:cool:
 

cperez

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I wanted to jump in with a big thank you to 94speedster for the write-up and umbertob for the extended testing on Mobil1. This was almost absurdly easy and so much cheaper than the dealer or the jiffy lube.

Thanks Guys!

For the love of everything that is good and holy please don't ever take your Rover to Jiffy Lube!!!!

And yes, the DIY LR4 oil change is one of life's cheap thrills. I did mine last weekend.
 

Pfunk951

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Quick question:

Got my filter from Atlantic British, OEM LR011279.. Filter said Made in China on it..

Doesn't Mahle make these? Kind of unnerving..

Mike
 

ryanjl

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Yeah, the genuine Rover filters got cheaper than the Mahle filters on Amazon the last time I ordered, and mine said "made in China" too. Looked the same as the Mahle filter I took out, though.
 

ktm525

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The Mahle filter in my garage was made in Bulgaria. I think this is the China of Europe lol.
 

cperez

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Yeah, the genuine Rover filters got cheaper than the Mahle filters on Amazon the last time I ordered, and mine said "made in China" too. Looked the same as the Mahle filter I took out, though.

I've used Mahle filters for the past few years and just noticed the Atlantic British knockoff for $12. I'm inclined to trust that AB would sell a product with reasonable quality. Might look into that a little further.
 

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