DIY Oil Change for LR4

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ryanjl

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Extended Performance is the blend people use.

Really, so long as you change your oil every 6k miles or so, you're fine either way.
 

harbinger808

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Extended Performance is the blend people use.

Really, so long as you change your oil every 6k miles or so, you're fine either way.

so no big difference between EP and EP High Mileage versions?...
 

ryanjl

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So long as they have the language that they are "suitable" for the Land Rover spec.
 

Parker Freeland

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Here's a question that has probably been raised. I am a mityvac user and love the convenience and quick turn around of the oil change. Due to ignorance on my part as a relatively new LR$ owner is this question. Does the metal tube that we use to attach the mityvac extend all the way down to the bottom of the pan? Should I do a drain plug oil change every other time to make sure that the lowest part of the pan gets drained? Or, is there enough internal turbulence to mix the stuff that has settle on the bottom of the pan that it gets extracted by the mityvac? I just don't want to leave any sludge at the bottom of the pan.

Thanks in advance for advice!
 

scott schmerge

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Here's a question that has probably been raised. I am a mityvac user and love the convenience and quick turn around of the oil change. Due to ignorance on my part as a relatively new LR$ owner is this question. Does the metal tube that we use to attach the mityvac extend all the way down to the bottom of the pan? Should I do a drain plug oil change every other time to make sure that the lowest part of the pan gets drained? Or, is there enough internal turbulence to mix the stuff that has settle on the bottom of the pan that it gets extracted by the mityvac? I just don't want to leave any sludge at the bottom of the pan.

Thanks in advance for advice!
Great question, from what I’ve heard, there is a small amount of oil that remains in the pan (less than 1/2 quart) but I don’t believe it’s enough to really make a difference. I’ve heard of folks draining from below every couple of changes, but I have not seen any data that would support that this path is necessary.

On my next change, I plan to do a traditional drain as I’d like to send my oil for analysis.

I’d be interested to hear if anyone has ever dropped their pan after doing top only changes and what the results were.
 

ktm525

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I did on my first oil change, a few drips (perhaps 50 mL). Not worth the effort. Get the oil fully warmed up (and mixed) before sucking and all will be good.
 

bblake12nd

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All, first time for me and a couple of questions. I only got a little over 6 liters out of my 2012. I put 7 qts back in. Anything to worry about? Here is the readout from my oil check.

Thanks in advance
7acaa83a74d3152ff45ea6fdeba3ddd3.jpg


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scott schmerge

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All, first time for me and a couple of questions. I only got a little over 6 liters out of my 2012. I put 7 qts back in. Anything to worry about? Here is the readout from my oil check.

Thanks in advance
7acaa83a74d3152ff45ea6fdeba3ddd3.jpg


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It’s 8 liters. 8.45 quarts. You’re low man! [emoji6]


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bblake12nd

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Well, I had a dealer change at 75k and I am changing at 85k but for all the pumping I did I couldn't get anymore out of it. The readout says full though but I don't know what "Not Available " means. Sort of confusing


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