Lifted lr4 alignment question

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Lr4_nut

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So I finally installed my lucky8 SYA kit and lift rods. I went 3” in the front and 2.5” in the rear. I’m running 25mm spacers, 18x8.5 +44 wheels with 33x12.5 nitto mud grapplers.

It rides surprisingly well and to me feels like stock handling. Just feels a bit taller. Anyway my question is with positive camber specs.

So I decided to do the alignment since. Of course all 4 corners have just slightly positive camber. Am I going to have to live with this or is there a fix with shims or different eccentric bolts?
 

maxx4wd

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I'm right with you with almost all your mods - I'm running 2.5" all around with 32s but I still have tire wear issues, so I'm interested to see if anyone has heard of a shim kit for these vehicles but my guess is we're just out of luck if we lift it. All I know is my 60k nittos are probably going to last about 40-45k at the current rate...I'm about 35k on this set and showing some pretty decent wear (I did replace all the upper and lower control arms etc. at just about the same time as the new tires so it should be a decent guage).
 

greiswig

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The way the ellipticals work on the LCAs, there is a pair of ridges cut and stamped into the frame side of the mount that the ellipsis on the alignment bolt works against. Just recently replacing one of mine, I found that one of the previous alignment shops had tightened the bolt down on one of those ridges, flattening it back into its own cut.

I welded a new piece of steel there to act as the limiter on that side, same place as stock. And the alignment went well, even though I am lifted; well within specs and nearly perfect according to Firestone. But if you were adventurous and desperate, you could do what I wrote in paragraph 1 on purpose, and change where the range of adjustability sits.
 

Lr4_nut

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The way the ellipticals work on the LCAs, there is a pair of ridges cut and stamped into the frame side of the mount that the ellipsis on the alignment bolt works against. Just recently replacing one of mine, I found that one of the previous alignment shops had tightened the bolt down on one of those ridges, flattening it back into its own cut.

I welded a new piece of steel there to act as the limiter on that side, same place as stock. And the alignment went well, even though I am lifted; well within specs and nearly perfect according to Firestone. But if you were adventurous and desperate, you could do what I wrote in paragraph 1 on purpose, and change where the range of adjustability sits.
I think that’s what it’s going to come down too. I did notice the camber adjustment points on the frame are pretty worn. I may have to get creative as you suggested.

I’m not really concerned about the camber right now. I cannot for the life of me get the steering wheel straight! No matter what I do the steering wheel is to left about 5 degrees.

Front and rear toe according to the alignment printout is bang on but as soon as I start to drive it’s crooked. I even pulled the air bag out to make sure the wheel was lined up. It is.

I adjust the rear toe to perfection, then to the front, numbers are perfect. Still crooked!!
 

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