LR4 2010 Suspension height issue

jlglr4

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@Chrisarobin That pick you posted appears to be a screenshot of a Technical Service Bulletin, not the codes from your vehicle. It also does not appear to be related to your problem, as far as I can tell. Those are communication codes relating to the ABS module.

Best place to start is really a scan of the DTC codes on your car. Even generic codes from a cheap $20 scanner would help, or take it to an autoparts store and have them scan it for free.

Could be the compressor, but could be something else as well, like a problem with the rear valve block.
 

Chrisarobin

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I took your advice and that if others here on the forum and finally bought an IID scanner. This is the code I pulled. I also ordered a replacement Hitachi style compressor - and tried to pull the bolts for the casing and 2 tori crews snapped and the 3rd stripped. chances are it is the compressor but any suggestions on how to get stubborn frozen bolts? this is northern New England... anyone out there good at confirming this code?
 

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Chrisarobin

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thanks - that was helpful but so far I can't find much of anything regarding this code and the GAP Toolis pretty vague regarding the issue. Feel like I could have better spent $450 and received as much information from a store bought product. unfortunately I can't find a mechanic in Norther VT that wants to touch a 2010 Land Rover. everyone is slammed and selective about what they have staff to work on.
 

mm3846

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VT is Land Rover land, right up there with the Cape as far as the Northeast goes.

There's most definitely plenty of shops that would work on it. Try Congleton Service, they specialize in RRC restoration but they work on every Rover. They're in Colchester. (802) 879-0200.
 

ryanjl

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thanks - that was helpful but so far I can't find much of anything regarding this code and the GAP Toolis pretty vague regarding the issue. Feel like I could have better spent $450 and received as much information from a store bought product. unfortunately I can't find a mechanic in Norther VT that wants to touch a 2010 Land Rover. everyone is slammed and selective about what they have staff to work on.

I'm not sure any store bought products will tell you suspension codes. If you plan on owning your Land Rover long, that iiD Tool will pay for itself multiple time over. Heck, the next time you need a new key it will pay for itself.

I would start by using the iiD Tool to clear the codes and see if one comes back, and determine under what conditions it comes back. For example, are you cycling the suspension height, does it come back immediately, after a while, on the highway, etc.

But I'm guessing it's probably the compressor.
 

Chrisarobin

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it comes back immediately and the compressor won't turn on - now have to try to remove all of those frozen hex screws and bolts to dislodge that old compressor. any tips?
 

allegro

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It might be worth a quick email to Patrick / GAP support ([email protected]) to see if he has any ideas for you. If you email him, include the full text of the fault along with the ECUs list which you can export from the app.

My 2012 manual says this for U3000-53: "This is not a fault. ECU temporarily deactivated following programming session. Please cycle the ignition to clear." Obviously it's not clearing when you cycle ignition, but it's a strange failure. Might be worth trying a vehicle reset by disconnecting both battery cables and letting it sit for a while?

On the compressor, did you get a full replacement assembly (new compressor and drier plus tubing, etc. on a new mounting plate)? Mine came with a new cover as well. If that's what you got, in the worst case you can just mangle/destroy the cover as needed to get it off, and once you have the compressor assembly out, you'll have more room to drill out old bolts and then refresh the hardware.
 

ryanjl

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PB blaster and heat.

This. As someone from the lower midwest (Kansas City), I thought the "spray it with PB Blaster the day before" was a bunch of hokey. But earlier this year I swapped my two front air struts. Did the front passenger one night, and the top nuts were a PITA. Went ahead and sprayed the top nuts of the driver's side with PB Blaster that night, and tackled that side the next day. It was amazing how easier it was.

I can only imagine it's that much worse in Vermont. Spray them down and tackle them the next day. If they still won't budge, hit them with a torch (if you have one).
 

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