Had the front and rear pads and rotors changed on my '11 LR4 with 46k on the clock. The cost was $1847 including tax. With the dealerships "rewards" program I get 20% of that on my account towards the purchase of my next vehicle. I should have also been given a jar of Vaseline.
Lr4 Brakes
- Thread starter daveny
- Start date
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I may have just had a mild heart attack...
Reply to all on brakes
Well, since my post a few days ago I sat down and spend some quality time doing research. I also paid a visit to a LR Dealership in Pasadena, CA (from where I bought the car).
I learned something interesting:
1. No matter how much I look for OEM parts they will not perform as well as some aftermarket parts (I did only say "SOME"). I found aftermarket parts at less cost, better performance, longer longevity and less brake dust. Actually there's quite a few brands out there. Personally I'm considering EBC as a brand but haven't decided yet.
A LR Service Tech told me after I asked him to be 100% honest with me, and I told him he is never going to change my brakes, that he himself use aftermarket brakes because they are less expensive and simply works better.
2. Installing rotors, pads and sensors is surprisingly easy. I'm not super handy but this I can figure out. There's a whole bunch of do-it-your-self on YouTube. Sure it will take a little extra time and effort the first time but I will rather pay myself than a mechanic.
3. This is the "best" part:
I had my car in for a 30K Service at a Indy shop who suppodsely is very good and has a great reputation. Well a couple of notes on that:
Land Rover states that an oil/filter change is only needed every 15K miles if using specified oil. LR in Pasadena confirmed it to me several times as I have a hard time trusting even the best synthetic oil for 15K miles/1 year.
The Indy shop (who said they used the correct oil but didn't specify it on the service records) said I should change the oil every 3K miles..... Who to trust???
Going forward I am going to change it myself every 7500 miles and will be using full synthetic 5-20. Which btw is the exact same oil I use on my racetrack motorcycle, which gets beaten up pretty good every so often. It's a bit expensive at $10-15 per qt but cheaper than going to LR Pasadena and/or paying an Indy shop to do it. The 20 minutes it takes is cozy time for me in the garage with a cup of coffee.
For the 30K miles service at the Indy Shop: They adjusted the tire air pressure, installed a new pollen filter and air filter as well as topped up all fluids. Well, I should say I paid for that. Because two days later I went to LR in Pasadena to get a leaking waterpump replaced under warranty. Check this out: LR in Pasadena did a free inspection of my car, adjusted air pressure in the ties and recommended me to replace the pollen filter.....
Who do I trust?
LR Pasadena or the Indy Shop?
LR Pasadena could really just have looked on the computer thinking my car was due for the 30K miles service that was done elsewhere two days earlier - and then have based their recommendations on that. Which would explain why they also recommended to change and top up the oil (Which I had just got changed and checked and found to be full to it's max!).
The Indy Shop could have charged me for filters etc but not actually changed it. They said they did and showed me my old air filter, which was fairly dirty. But did they truly show me my filter or just an old dirty one? I wouldn't know for sure would I?
I am by nature suspicious because I've caught service repair shops in the past screwing me over on jobs they didn't perform or did not need to perform. Like the one time I had an older Mazda 6 tuned and fully serviced by a mechanic who I trust 100% (he will not work on LR however). Next day I had a tiny issue and dropped by a Mazda dealership who fixed it for $20 and told me I needed an oil chance and showed me a dirty air filter and told me I needed it replaced. Back then I walked the mech over to me car and demanded him to open up to my air filter where the brand new from the day before was still sitting there.... That was where I lost trust in mecs.
So, the morale of this story and what I am going to do: Learn how to at a minimum check stuff myself - and try to do it myself too.
This coming weekend I will check the condition of the pollen and air filters (they should still look new as I barely will drive this week). Also, I will look at my brakes and order new ones.
Well, since my post a few days ago I sat down and spend some quality time doing research. I also paid a visit to a LR Dealership in Pasadena, CA (from where I bought the car).
I learned something interesting:
1. No matter how much I look for OEM parts they will not perform as well as some aftermarket parts (I did only say "SOME"). I found aftermarket parts at less cost, better performance, longer longevity and less brake dust. Actually there's quite a few brands out there. Personally I'm considering EBC as a brand but haven't decided yet.
A LR Service Tech told me after I asked him to be 100% honest with me, and I told him he is never going to change my brakes, that he himself use aftermarket brakes because they are less expensive and simply works better.
2. Installing rotors, pads and sensors is surprisingly easy. I'm not super handy but this I can figure out. There's a whole bunch of do-it-your-self on YouTube. Sure it will take a little extra time and effort the first time but I will rather pay myself than a mechanic.
3. This is the "best" part:
I had my car in for a 30K Service at a Indy shop who suppodsely is very good and has a great reputation. Well a couple of notes on that:
Land Rover states that an oil/filter change is only needed every 15K miles if using specified oil. LR in Pasadena confirmed it to me several times as I have a hard time trusting even the best synthetic oil for 15K miles/1 year.
The Indy shop (who said they used the correct oil but didn't specify it on the service records) said I should change the oil every 3K miles..... Who to trust???
Going forward I am going to change it myself every 7500 miles and will be using full synthetic 5-20. Which btw is the exact same oil I use on my racetrack motorcycle, which gets beaten up pretty good every so often. It's a bit expensive at $10-15 per qt but cheaper than going to LR Pasadena and/or paying an Indy shop to do it. The 20 minutes it takes is cozy time for me in the garage with a cup of coffee.
For the 30K miles service at the Indy Shop: They adjusted the tire air pressure, installed a new pollen filter and air filter as well as topped up all fluids. Well, I should say I paid for that. Because two days later I went to LR in Pasadena to get a leaking waterpump replaced under warranty. Check this out: LR in Pasadena did a free inspection of my car, adjusted air pressure in the ties and recommended me to replace the pollen filter.....
Who do I trust?
LR Pasadena or the Indy Shop?
LR Pasadena could really just have looked on the computer thinking my car was due for the 30K miles service that was done elsewhere two days earlier - and then have based their recommendations on that. Which would explain why they also recommended to change and top up the oil (Which I had just got changed and checked and found to be full to it's max!).
The Indy Shop could have charged me for filters etc but not actually changed it. They said they did and showed me my old air filter, which was fairly dirty. But did they truly show me my filter or just an old dirty one? I wouldn't know for sure would I?
I am by nature suspicious because I've caught service repair shops in the past screwing me over on jobs they didn't perform or did not need to perform. Like the one time I had an older Mazda 6 tuned and fully serviced by a mechanic who I trust 100% (he will not work on LR however). Next day I had a tiny issue and dropped by a Mazda dealership who fixed it for $20 and told me I needed an oil chance and showed me a dirty air filter and told me I needed it replaced. Back then I walked the mech over to me car and demanded him to open up to my air filter where the brand new from the day before was still sitting there.... That was where I lost trust in mecs.
So, the morale of this story and what I am going to do: Learn how to at a minimum check stuff myself - and try to do it myself too.
This coming weekend I will check the condition of the pollen and air filters (they should still look new as I barely will drive this week). Also, I will look at my brakes and order new ones.
BTW in regards to LR in Encino, CA.
I bought my first LR4 there last year in September. It was my dream car and I negotiated a decent deal paying only $8 more per month than I had hoped for. Overall it was a pain in the neck because they took forever and I am just as big a pain to deal with because I will only pay $X or I walk out. I made that very clear to them before I met them for the appointment. They told me they could make it happen.... 4-5 hours later I drove home in my new car not happy with the time it took. I very much felt like they tried to trick me.
Anyway, about 3-4 days later they called me that my loan was not approved because of my low credit score... Just to make it very clear that I know my credit score and checked it with all three credit agencies before I bought my car (which is why I knew what the cars hsould max cost me). So, LR Encino offered me to come and re-do the paper work. No problem with me until the told me my payment would be $200 more per month... I knew they were giving me BS. Now I know that it's a common sales technique. Let people love their new car, show it off to friends etc. and then have them pay extra. Most will not return the car because they get emberrassed.
I was prepared...
Before I originally bought the car in Encino I had tried to get it from LR Pasadena who couldn't get me what I wanted in the color I wanted unless I could wait 4 weeks.
So, on my way over to Encino to "handle the new transaction"; I dropped by Pasadena and showed them I already had bought the LR4 from Encino. The sales guy is a super nice guy in Pasadena but he got a bit sad he had lost the sale. So, I told him: "If you can get me the same car, same model, same everything at the same price as what I bought it for in Encino; then I do have the option of returning the car and buy it from you".
A couple of hours later I had returned the LR4 to Encino telling to go to hell - obviously they were trying to force $200 out of me - and I was driving the same model out of the Pasadena store for a bit less than I originally paid for it in Encino....
I bought my first LR4 there last year in September. It was my dream car and I negotiated a decent deal paying only $8 more per month than I had hoped for. Overall it was a pain in the neck because they took forever and I am just as big a pain to deal with because I will only pay $X or I walk out. I made that very clear to them before I met them for the appointment. They told me they could make it happen.... 4-5 hours later I drove home in my new car not happy with the time it took. I very much felt like they tried to trick me.
Anyway, about 3-4 days later they called me that my loan was not approved because of my low credit score... Just to make it very clear that I know my credit score and checked it with all three credit agencies before I bought my car (which is why I knew what the cars hsould max cost me). So, LR Encino offered me to come and re-do the paper work. No problem with me until the told me my payment would be $200 more per month... I knew they were giving me BS. Now I know that it's a common sales technique. Let people love their new car, show it off to friends etc. and then have them pay extra. Most will not return the car because they get emberrassed.
I was prepared...
Before I originally bought the car in Encino I had tried to get it from LR Pasadena who couldn't get me what I wanted in the color I wanted unless I could wait 4 weeks.
So, on my way over to Encino to "handle the new transaction"; I dropped by Pasadena and showed them I already had bought the LR4 from Encino. The sales guy is a super nice guy in Pasadena but he got a bit sad he had lost the sale. So, I told him: "If you can get me the same car, same model, same everything at the same price as what I bought it for in Encino; then I do have the option of returning the car and buy it from you".
A couple of hours later I had returned the LR4 to Encino telling to go to hell - obviously they were trying to force $200 out of me - and I was driving the same model out of the Pasadena store for a bit less than I originally paid for it in Encino....
AxelR
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Wow. Pretty gangster approach to doing business.
I was offered the same deal by Land Rover Norwood (even though I purchased a certified used vehicle) but felt like in the end it wasn't fair to the sales guy at LR Hanover.
Good work.
ricker
Well-Known Member
Finally had the front brakes changed for the first time on my 2010 LR4 at 38,700 miles (2/3 city and 1/3 highway driving). This is better than my 91 RRC. Cost was approx. $900 for rotors, pads, and sensor.
Had the entire truck checked out as my warranty expires in April. Everything looks good and its running great. I will probably begin doing my own basic servicing to save some cash.
David
Updated info on brakes
So, I changed my front rotors and all pads and sensors (front and back) on my 2012 LR4 myself.
In the end I bought EBC brakes on Amazon.com and the sensors from British Imports. I ran into a slight problem lifting the car up and had to upgrade to a better jack stand. Actually I bought 4 jack stands to hold the car up solid and a jack to lift it.
All together between purchasing tools and brakes/sensors I spend about $1100.
Sure i could have had it done at the Indy shop for the same but instead of them putting on OEM parts, which wears out fast I now have much better braking power and almost no brake dust. Best of all: next time it will cost me less and take me less time as I now have the tools and know how to do it. It's really easy. I have been using the new brakes for 3000 miles already and they have only got better as EBC claimed they would.
Biggest problem I had was the sensors, which for whatever reason I had a problem fitting on. They had same dimensions (almost) as OEM but didn't fit onto the EBC brake pads 100% even if the pads had the slots drilled out for them. It was a question about just making a 2 mm adjustment with a file and it was all good again.
So, I changed my front rotors and all pads and sensors (front and back) on my 2012 LR4 myself.
In the end I bought EBC brakes on Amazon.com and the sensors from British Imports. I ran into a slight problem lifting the car up and had to upgrade to a better jack stand. Actually I bought 4 jack stands to hold the car up solid and a jack to lift it.
All together between purchasing tools and brakes/sensors I spend about $1100.
Sure i could have had it done at the Indy shop for the same but instead of them putting on OEM parts, which wears out fast I now have much better braking power and almost no brake dust. Best of all: next time it will cost me less and take me less time as I now have the tools and know how to do it. It's really easy. I have been using the new brakes for 3000 miles already and they have only got better as EBC claimed they would.
Biggest problem I had was the sensors, which for whatever reason I had a problem fitting on. They had same dimensions (almost) as OEM but didn't fit onto the EBC brake pads 100% even if the pads had the slots drilled out for them. It was a question about just making a 2 mm adjustment with a file and it was all good again.
Good to know about the sensors. I just ordered EBC pads and rotors and plan to do the work myself also.
Will using EBC or other aftermarket parts void the warranty? I believe I've read elsewhere in the forum that someone was having a warranty repair performed and they had aftermarket brakes on and the dealer wouldn't perform the service until OEM brakes were reinstalled. Is there any validity to this and is it even legal? I'm hoping to do my next break job and have been researching aftermarket parts, but don't want to actually create more of a hassle for myself.
Thanks
Thanks
