Lucky 8 SYA Kit Problem

[djkaosone]

How many trail miles do you have with this setup? That might be a good data point to have.

I've done plenty of trails to know that I'm good with my setup. At least 12 different trails with different terrains. I rock crawled too and never had any issues.

Here's some additional info... Most people complaining about the rear limiting straps binding. Just look at the pics from this link where the suggested straps are to be mounted and contacting the wheels/tires at (partial) extension.

https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/sya-kit-limiting-straps-binding.223291/

 

[greiswig]

Sounds like you have a fair amount of trail testing with the straps this way. Good to know!

 

[Blueaz]

You're right... it's about protecting the cv joints or axles. However, if I can't put my truck into extended mode to get out of a sticky situation that's not going to work for me either.

Btw... I have the x-lifter installed and can temporarily put it in +75mm, equivalent to oem extended mode, for getting out of sticky situations.

Here's my thought and it's just me, if oem allows about 10" in the front and 14" of travel in the back. I'm not changing the range of motion. I've added the limiting strap to stop it from exceeding that motion by (guesstimate) of 1/16th slack in the limiting straps.

Hello, new member reviving an old thread with a question for djkaosone...

2013 LR4 LUX HD

I am running 275/65/18 (32") Nitto Ridge Grapplers on Compomotive wheels. I also have the X-lifter module instead of the rods.

As expected, my tires rub on full compression in the rear wheel wells on the forward side where the rear coolant hoses run on the passenger side and where the rear AC lines run on the driver's side. They also rub a bit at the top of the inner wheel arch. I'm going to relocate the coolant hoses on the passenger side because that's where most of the rubbing is. I may have an AC shop relocate the rear AC lines on the driver's side but they barely touch on that side.

My main concern is air suspension failure that drops me to my bump stops. I've had a few instances on the road where I get a suspension fault code and then I have about 15 seconds to get to the side of the road and stop before the damn thing drops to the bump stops and the tires rub like hell if I'm not stopped. Restarting the vehicle clears the fault. It happens every now and then with no apparent cause or actual problem. I'm at 114k miles and I just replaced one front air strut that had a small leak. The other 3 are original. My compressor is original. Everything seems to work fine except for the occasional suspension fault code that drops me to the bumps.

The major problem would be having a total air suspension failure when I'm far offroad. I worry about this every time I head out for a weekend.

I've done some research and reached out to Lucky 8 and it looks like the SYA spacers are the key to preventing dropping me on top of my tires.

My question is how do the SYA spacers work with the X-lifter module instead of rods? Would I just use my Gap IID tool to recalibrate with the +height of the spacers (which I think is about 2 or 2.5 inches) and then run with the dash suspension setting in Normal? Are there any limits with using the X-lifter that I should know about? Or is it all the same, you just reset everything to be +2 or +2.5 inches (or mm equivalent)? I've actually used the GAP IID to reset to +25mm now because my tires would occasionally kiss the wheel arch lining on big bumps on the street.

I'd also use the limiting straps. I just downloaded the SYA installation instructions from Lucky 8 and it looks like they still show the strap installation at the top of the spacer (see pictures). I'd try your placement at the bottom of the spacer as you've shown in your photos.

Thank you for any advice you can offer!

 

[djkaosone]

@Blueaz

As expected, my tires rub on full compression in the rear wheel wells on the forward side where the rear coolant hoses run on the passenger side and where the rear AC lines run on the driver's side. They also rub a bit at the top of the inner wheel arch. I'm going to relocate the coolant hoses on the passenger side because that's where most of the rubbing is. I may have an AC shop relocate the rear AC lines on the driver's side but they barely touch on that side.

A few of us had to relocate the coolant hoses for the rear HVAC, specifically over the RH front and rear tire well. The front frame horns had to be cut too. I didn't have to mess with the AC lines.

The major problem would be having a total air suspension failure when I'm far offroad. I worry about this every time I head out for a weekend.

That's the main reason why I have the SYA (Save Your A$$) kit, and it has more pros than cons. I've had my fair share of suspension failures and dropping down to bump stops on the trail. With that in mind and previous experiences, I tend to over prepare. I have the SYA kit and it's a peace of mind knowing I'll be able to drive out. I also have an emergency eas bypass that I made.

THE first thing I would do before you head out this weekend is to recalibrate your suspension with the Gap IID Tool or something similar on level ground. After you recalibrate the suspension, calibrate the xlifter too.

My question is how do the SYA spacers work with the X-lifter module instead of rods? Would I just use my Gap IID tool to recalibrate with the +height of the spacers (which I think is about 2 or 2.5 inches) and then run with the dash suspension setting in Normal? Are there any limits with using the X-lifter that I should know about? Or is it all the same, you just reset everything to be +2 or +2.5 inches (or mm equivalent)? I've actually used the GAP IID to reset to +25mm now because my tires would occasionally kiss the wheel arch lining on big bumps on the street.

Yes it will work without lift rods, BUT you're going to have a hellova time recalibrating your suspension in any emergency or at all. You will want the 2.5" lift rods, because the 2" spacers will actually give you a -2" drop and adding +2.5" lift rods will offset that drop and net you a +0.5" lift. With the 0.5" lift you're able to simply add 1/2" to your calibration for each corner, and it's well within spec.

For me, I exclusively use the xlifter for ride height adjustments. I most often leave the xlifter on +25mm, pretty much set it and forget it. I can change the ride height at 80 mph freeway speeds anywhere from 0 to +55mm over a few minutes, just to let the compressor cool down in between each adjustments. The only time I would use the factory height adjustments is for Rock Crawling Terrain Response mode, and I would put the xlifter anywhere between 0 to +25mm (max) before hand. That's the only time that I'll use the factory height adjustment in conjunction with the xlifter.

I'd also use the limiting straps. I just downloaded the SYA installation instructions from Lucky 8 and it looks like they still show the strap installation at the top of the spacer (see pictures). I'd try your placement at the bottom of the spacer as you've shown in your photos.

The limiting straps illustrated in the Lucky8 instructions aren't configured at the optimum locations. The rear limiting straps on mine are bolted to the sway bar end links at the sway bar. The front is the bolted between the spacer, above the top hat and spacer. This will give you the optimum droop, similar to regular Off Road mode.

 

[ryanjl]

My main concern is air suspension failure that drops me to my bump stops. I've had a few instances on the road where I get a suspension fault code and then I have about 15 seconds to get to the side of the road and stop before the damn thing drops to the bump stops and the tires rub like hell if I'm not stopped. Restarting the vehicle clears the fault. It happens every now and then with no apparent cause or actual problem. I'm at 114k miles and I just replaced one front air strut that had a small leak. The other 3 are original. My compressor is original. Everything seems to work fine except for the occasional suspension fault code that drops me to the bumps.

My advice would be to get your suspension problems addressed first. It's only going to get worse. What is the suspension code you get? Regardless, at your mileage you are way overdue for a compressor if you legitimately are on your first one. Most go at around 70k miles. You may also try cleaning out your three valve blocks or just replacing them.

Replacing just one air strut also seems a bit perplexing. You should at least replace the other side if you are replacing one.

 

[Blueaz]

@Blueaz


A few of us had to relocate the coolant hoses for the rear HVAC, specifically over the RH front and rear tire well. The front frame horns had to be cut too. I didn't have to mess with the AC lines.


That's the main reason why I have the SYA (Save Your A$$) kit, and it has more pros than cons. I've had my fair share of suspension failures and dropping down to bump stops on the trail. With that in mind and previous experiences, I tend to over prepare. I have the SYA kit and it's a peace of mind knowing I'll be able to drive out. I also have an emergency eas bypass that I made.

THE first thing I would do before you head out this weekend is to recalibrate your suspension with the Gap IID Tool or something similar on level ground. After you recalibrate the suspension, calibrate the xlifter too.


Yes it will work without lift rods, BUT you're going to have a hellova time recalibrating your suspension in any emergency or at all. You will want the 2.5" lift rods, because the 2" spacers will actually give you a -2" drop and adding +2.5" lift rods will offset that drop and net you a +0.5" lift. With the 0.5" lift you're able to simply add 1/2" to your calibration for each corner, and it's well within spec.

For me, I exclusively use the xlifter for ride height adjustments. I most often leave the xlifter on +25mm, pretty much set it and forget it. I can change the ride height at 80 mph freeway speeds anywhere from 0 to +55mm over a few minutes, just to let the compressor cool down in between each adjustments. The only time I would use the factory height adjustments is for Rock Crawling Terrain Response mode, and I would put the xlifter anywhere between 0 to +25mm (max) before hand. That's the only time that I'll use the factory height adjustment in conjunction with the xlifter.



The limiting straps illustrated in the Lucky8 instructions aren't configured at the optimum locations. The rear limiting straps on mine are bolted to the sway bar end links at the sway bar. The front is the bolted between the spacer, above the top hat and spacer. This will give you the optimum droop, similar to regular Off Road mode.

I've already ground back my front frame horns, I get just a bit of rub on full lock.

So you're saying that I should install - permanently - 2.5" rods?

After resetting the "normal" height to +25mm with the GAP IID tool, I also only use the X-lifter for height adjustment. I only touch the dash height buttons to drop to access height when I'm helping my mother get in the car and of course access height is now still +25mm over OEM access height. The main reason I bought the X-lifter was so that I could run higher than normal at speed. I was so disappointed when I bought this thing and watched it automatically drop back to normal height once I got up to speed on a long trail. The auto-leveling feature was a nice surprise and that feature alone makes the X-lifter worth the price when camping and sleeping in the back.

I haven't picked up the SYA kit yet. Not sure if I will bother....maybe just reinstall the 285/60/15 Nitto Terragrapplers I had on before and not bother with the extra expense and effort to net an extra 1 to 1.5". The real problem is the idiot who designed 31" wheel wells on these LR4s. I'd love to have the 33s (285/75/16) that I ran on my 2004 Disco with a simple OME HD suspension swap. No EAS to worry about. Of course it also rode like it had HD springs under there and the air suspension is soooo much nicer.

Regarding my EAS system, my mechanic (well respected Land Rover independent shop here in Scottsdale) has looked into it and found no issues. I'll have to grab the latest fault code with my GAP, it dropped on me about a week ago. When they diagnosed the small leak from the front driver's side strut they advised only replacing the one strut and replacing the others when they start to leak. It was a small spurt of air that would only escape when the suspension was flexing off road. I heard it last weekend off road and I assumed it was the strut but when I got home I found a big screw in that front driver's side tire. Took it in for an oil change and new AC compressor and they confirmed it was indeed the strut. At $3,382.10 out the door for AC and the strut I'm OK with only replacing one.

Oh, and I also have all the fittings and tubing to install independent air suspension fill ports at each corner, just haven't gotten around to installing it yet. Have to wait for late fall or winter to work in the garage here in AZ.

 

[Blueaz]

I've also done some more reading and I see in another thread where you explain the misconception that I also had about the SYA spacers. They are not providing +2" height or lift, it is actually -2".

 

[djkaosone]

So you're saying that I should install - permanently - 2.5" rods?

Only if you're getting the SYA kit. Otherwise, just use the xlifter.

Just looking at the images, are you measuring from the ground to the top of the wheel arch? You should measure from the center cap of the wheel to the top of the wheel arch and just by looking at it you definitely need to recalibrate your suspension with your Gap IID Tool.

Find a flat level ground before you start, leave the truck running with the driver window down, and start the guided calibration. That'll help with your suspension issues.

 

[Blueaz]

Yes, those measurements are from ground to wheel arch. Will recalibrate with GAP and then recalibrate the Xlifter too. Will also see what suspension fault code is stored.

 

[f1racer328]

The major problem would be having a total air suspension failure when I'm far offroad. I worry about this every time I head out for a weekend.

I was in Moab, 2 or 3 miles deep into a trail and had a front air strut develop a huge hole in the airbag. I was so happy that my tires weren't rubbing. That would have been the least of my problems.

I'd go for the SYA kit but like others said, fix up any problems in your suspension.