Seized Engine Removal
- Thread starter Hubes
- Start date
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Stuart Barnes
Full Access Member
That’s a bummer. And it’s blued as well. I hope you can machine it, not sure how readily available spare cranks are for these engines.
I’ve had a look and I can’t seem to find the torque values for the main bearings either.
I’ve had a look and I can’t seem to find the torque values for the main bearings either.
Here are pictures of the Crank removed. You can see where the journal is white in color. I believe this is part of the bearing that is still attached to the journal, as you cannot see the oil holes. I have contacted a machine shop that is going to re-condition the crank for me. I did not want to try removing these bearings as I did not want to damage the journal anymore than it already is. BTW, the journal cap bolts can be removed with a Audi/VW head bolt removal tool (T52). I just happen to have one of these from rebuilding the top end of a New Beetle 2.5L.
Should I start a new thread on the engine rebuild? Or just keep this one going?
Should I start a new thread on the engine rebuild? Or just keep this one going?
Attachments
That's a rather nasty looking journal there plus what is under the other throw's journal as well the main to the left.
JMO i'd replace the crank and one rod after checking the other one next to it, had that replacement rod checked for length, balanced both ends with an overall balance matching the other seven rods.
Lack of oil, what do the bores look like along with cam lobes and the complete oiling system also requiring a complete cleaning as there must be metal particles from that failed journal.
Cast crank or steel, another thing to consider, I bet it's cast being cheaper vs any steel crank which can be welded up then ground to spec considering the time, labor and cost involved.
Rescuing a forged one off $troker crank is a different $tory being magnafluxed, having welded up journals then refinished to spec, rechecked for straightness then rebalanced.
That being a money no object rescue checked with the massively higher amperage magnaflux unit charging the crank end to end vs the "loop method" in the example below. We had at United Airlines engine rebuilding facility their magnaflux unit available.
Small general unit here as example; http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/70746-magnafluxing-info.html
As mentioned above a no limit cost rescued one off custom crank vs in your case a common crank to be had and replaced.
A "cooked journal" restored vs a replacement crank without second guessing i'd replace it.
While your at it have that crank or any replacement crank balance checked as LR failed in that department bigtime in the past producing shakers installing as cast and ground journals checking being "good enough balanced". Felt in the steerring wheel and your **** out of balance some LR's considered "good enough" LR's past production quality control.
Even a factory new shortblock, removed rods and crank and had everyrhing rebalanced before assembly with rods at each end equal before the big end equalized along with pistons, flywheel and damper which were all off balance from a factory new crate shortblock. After this not trusting LR's engines unless having a smooth lucky engine.
I'd sure as heck would install 1/4" OD x 2" long strong rare earth magnets drilled and epoxied into drain plugs plus an external magnet onto the **** end of spin on oil filters as added protection, one out of a microwave magnatron unit they work great.
While apart have checked those two fuel pumps before reassembly making sure your not running on only one all the time as read on LR forums as an issue with only one operating then your stranded.
These LR's have a oil pressure gauge or just an "idiot light"?......~~=o&o>.......
JMO i'd replace the crank and one rod after checking the other one next to it, had that replacement rod checked for length, balanced both ends with an overall balance matching the other seven rods.
Lack of oil, what do the bores look like along with cam lobes and the complete oiling system also requiring a complete cleaning as there must be metal particles from that failed journal.
Cast crank or steel, another thing to consider, I bet it's cast being cheaper vs any steel crank which can be welded up then ground to spec considering the time, labor and cost involved.
Rescuing a forged one off $troker crank is a different $tory being magnafluxed, having welded up journals then refinished to spec, rechecked for straightness then rebalanced.
That being a money no object rescue checked with the massively higher amperage magnaflux unit charging the crank end to end vs the "loop method" in the example below. We had at United Airlines engine rebuilding facility their magnaflux unit available.
Small general unit here as example; http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/70746-magnafluxing-info.html
As mentioned above a no limit cost rescued one off custom crank vs in your case a common crank to be had and replaced.
A "cooked journal" restored vs a replacement crank without second guessing i'd replace it.
While your at it have that crank or any replacement crank balance checked as LR failed in that department bigtime in the past producing shakers installing as cast and ground journals checking being "good enough balanced". Felt in the steerring wheel and your **** out of balance some LR's considered "good enough" LR's past production quality control.
Even a factory new shortblock, removed rods and crank and had everyrhing rebalanced before assembly with rods at each end equal before the big end equalized along with pistons, flywheel and damper which were all off balance from a factory new crate shortblock. After this not trusting LR's engines unless having a smooth lucky engine.
I'd sure as heck would install 1/4" OD x 2" long strong rare earth magnets drilled and epoxied into drain plugs plus an external magnet onto the **** end of spin on oil filters as added protection, one out of a microwave magnatron unit they work great.
While apart have checked those two fuel pumps before reassembly making sure your not running on only one all the time as read on LR forums as an issue with only one operating then your stranded.
These LR's have a oil pressure gauge or just an "idiot light"?......~~=o&o>.......
WOW BeemerNut, thanks for the information. I will be dropping the crank off at the machine shop next week and will see what they say as far as rescuing this crank. Then I will have to weigh options: new/refurb crank or short block depending on their analysis. There is definite contamination of the journal oil passages, I can see slug buildup there. This is a testament to why you need to keep up on your engine maintenance and don't push oil change to 10K miles.
BTW, still looking for the engine rebuild specifications for this engine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
BTW, still looking for the engine rebuild specifications for this engine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
