The Great Engine Oil Debate

jlglr4

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Question for any oil geeks: Any thoughts on the new ACEA C6 oils? I have little knowledge about what all these specs mean, but the new C6 spec is supposed to reduce risk of low speed pre-ingition in boosted engines. LR has apparently moved to a new spec for 2018 onward cars (STJLR.51.5122 replaced with STJLR.03.5006), and that later spec is being met with some C6 oils (e.g., Liqui-Moly 6600). ACEA is no longer even maintaining the old A1/B1 spec, which seems to have correlated with the STJLR.51.5122 oils (Castrol Edge Pro, Liqui-Moly Special Tec LR).

I know a bunch of people here just use Castrol Edge, and I’m not convinced any of these specs make any real difference myself. But since our V6 is boosted, wondering if LSPI is a concern and curious about the new C6 oils.
 

landylandy

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Interesting I see no one care about the WSS-M2C925-A compatibility here.
I personally think its important to get a match! only the Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-20
and the Castrol Edge A1 Professional 5W-20 meet the specs!!!! Of the 2 only the Mobil1 seams to be available to the public here in the USA.
Remember 5W-30 is thicker and fine, if you live in 90 Degrees weather, but not where it gets cold!
The question is how much damage you do long term with a wrong or cheap oil!
The engine tolerance are much tighter these days, the piston rings on the other hand have much less tension on the cylinder walls than on a cast iron block engine.
That results in more buildup of goop in your engine with usage of a too thick or cheap motor oil. Long therm it is like you would put honey into the oiling system, causing less freely movement and more stress on bearings and internal moving parts. Who is to say what could happen, I personally don't wanna find out, so I stick to the oil specs as recommended by the manufacturer, no thinner no thicker and no other detergent additives!
 

ktm525

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Mobil extended performance no longer mentions 925-A, it hasn't for years. That being said that is what I use. The only reason they spec'd a 5W-20 in the first place was for fuel economy. The 925-A spec was additive levels to ensure LR's stupid 24k km oil change interval.
oil.jpg
oil2.jpg
 
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ktm525

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No in 2010 it was 15k miles (24k kms) or 1 year. and you thought "dealer serviced" meant something :)
 

ryanjl

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Interesting I see no one care about the WSS-M2C925-A compatibility here.
I personally think its important to get a match! only the Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-20
and the Castrol Edge A1 Professional 5W-20 meet the specs!!!! Of the 2 only the Mobil1 seams to be available to the public here in the USA.
Remember 5W-30 is thicker and fine, if you live in 90 Degrees weather, but not where it gets cold!
The question is how much damage you do long term with a wrong or cheap oil!
The engine tolerance are much tighter these days, the piston rings on the other hand have much less tension on the cylinder walls than on a cast iron block engine.
That results in more buildup of goop in your engine with usage of a too thick or cheap motor oil. Long therm it is like you would put honey into the oiling system, causing less freely movement and more stress on bearings and internal moving parts. Who is to say what could happen, I personally don't wanna find out, so I stick to the oil specs as recommended by the manufacturer, no thinner no thicker and no other detergent additives!

This is incorrect. See my post #3 in this same thread.


Ravenol and Motul also meet the original spec. Moreso, they say they meet the spec right now whereas Mobil no longer does.

And if you agree the original spec has been superseded by a newer one (which some evidence indicates), there are a bunch of motor oils that meet the new spec.

Lastly, the spec was only to meet the extended oil-change intervals specified by Land Rover. If you change your oil every 7k miles or less, the spec is not as important as just using a quality synthetic oil.
 

Al Pizzica

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FWIW this is our second 2013 LR4 and I have been using the Walmart Mobil 1 exclusively since we got it somewhere north of 50k and changing it every 6k, using Seafoam twice a year for these dirty injectors and sticking with premium gas and the damn thing runs like a sewing machine at 100k compared to our last one at the same mileage.
All of this advice came from this forum thanks guys, looking forward to another 100k.
 

f1racer328

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I've had mine since 40k miles, am currently at 110k and have only ran Mobil 1 5W-20 since I've had it. Still runs great! Usually run Costco fuel as well.
 

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