Transmission swap

[avslash]

Good luck mate. If you were a bit closer to NJ I'd come over and give you a hand. Its always good to have some moral support. I remember changing my Series 2 gearbox over a ditch on the side of a road lol. The Rover SD1 V8 conversion it had used to destroy them. In fact after we dropped the old one out, me and my mate had a hell of a time lining the replacement back up, damn input shaft wouldn't line up, so we left it and went down the pub. Came back about 4 hours later sufficiently lubricated, and the bstard slicked right in! Even had to chuck the spare in the ditch to sit the jack on because it was a bit boggy. This is a whole other ballgame, so I'm rooting for you!

That's funny, and oh so true.

Sometimes machines just **** you off so much that raising your BAC is the only way to get back on course.

 

[scott schmerge]

It’s here! Shorter than I thought (17” tall from bottom of pan to top of bell housing). This will slide under, no problem. Teardown starts tomorrow am.

Still going to go in from underneath. Will document progress and learnings as I go!

 

[gsxr]

I don't know anything about this specific trans, but in general, it's a good idea to replace any external seals/O-rings while the trans is out of the vehicle. I'd at least do the converter shaft seal, and any other seals behind the converter area.

Looking forward to following your adventures!

 

[avslash]

Sweet. Looking forward to your reports. Hell, can you set up a GoPro?

Take a ********* sharpie and write "Schmerge Was Here" on top of that bad boy for anyone who pulls it out in posterity!

And I would definitely change those seals and the connector sleeve while it is out. If they leak in the future, you would be smashing your head into a wall.

 

[scott schmerge]

Sweet. Looking forward to your reports. Hell, can you set up a GoPro?

Take a ********* sharpie and write "Schmerge Was Here" on top of that bad boy for anyone who pulls it out in posterity!

And I would definitely change those seals and the connector sleeve while it is out. If they leak in the future, you would be smashing your head into a wall.

Haha. Done!

I’ve been debating the seals and connector sleeve. It’s brand new in my old transmission and it will be no thing. I’m already swapping the metal pan and filter


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[mklinker]

It’s here! Shorter than I thought (17” tall from bottom of pan to top of bell housing). This will slide under, no problem. Teardown starts tomorrow am.

Still going to go in from underneath. Will document progress and learnings as I go!

Godspeed brother

 

[avslash]

It's 8 a.m. central. We demand entertainment. Is this party getting started?

 

[scott schmerge]

False start. Got it up on stands and realized I need female Torx sockets for driveline (prop shaft and drive shaft).

Access looks somewhat tight from transfer case to transmission. Much more room around bell housing once exhaust removed. May try to take it out in one piece...transfer case and transmission

 

[Quijote]

The process is fairly straight forward if you get the workshop manual for the truck... it spells out every connection, hose, part you have to take off prior to lifting the body off. Frankly, nothing difficult.

Once you do all of that and take out the big body-bolts, things get more intense, especially without a lift. Our approach was to jack each side of the body up 2 inches at a time, alternating left and right, and slowly building up cribbing with 2x4's to support the body. You can jack the body up via the rails on the bottom/side of the body. We lifted the body up about ~3 feet. At this point the body was lifted, but the cribbing was under the body rails. We then built a couple of big/long beams to support the weight of the car between the cribbing towers and spread the cribbing towers apart so we could roll the chassis forward. At that point, the engine/trans/everything was accessible. Putting the body back on was the same process... just make sure the body mount holes line up.

Fun fact: You have to disconnect all of the brake lines, so you end up losing most of the brake fluid. The engine wont start until it senses you pushing on the brake, and pressure in the brake lines. Basically, until you bleed the brakes, the engine wont start and can cause severe anxiety. Ask me how we found that one out...

If someone is actually considering this, please reach out to me. There are a lot of things we learned, etc.

Awesome. This is great to know as I have a lift at home, so if I ever were to consider serious work, I'd be silly not try this.

 

[Greg9504]

Tip for putting it back in. Get 2 long bolts same thread as the bellhousing/engine bolts. Cut the heads off, thread them in opposite sides of engine, and use to guide the trans back on. Double check where you are placing them, that you have room for them to protrude toward the trans side. After trans is in place and have a few other bolts started you can remove and replace with the correct bolts.

Good luck!