DIY Oil Change for LR4

[Kuro50]

Don't forget to decide if you are vacuuming out via Topsider, or draining from below. If draining, be prepared for a holy mess. The last time, I tried using a 1-inch PCV pipe elbow which I slipped over the hole as I pulled the drain plug away. Believe it or not, this reduce the mess 80%+... will try it again next time also.

OE (Genuine JLR) or OEM filter is preferred, I'd avoid non-OEM but that's just me. Any of the oils listed will be fine if you are changing at 5-7kmi. If you want to change at 10k+ intervals then you should be more picky about the specific oil.

I feel like 7k miles is where I’d feel more comfortable in between oil changes. In saying that, will I see any tangible difference by splurging for the AMSOIL over Mobile 1 EP or Kirkland? There seems to be a significant price difference in AMSOIL ($11-$13 per quart) in comparison to the other two. I don’t mind spending a little extra for quality stuff if it truly makes a difference. But would hate to just pay more for just marketing.

 

[gsxr]

Amsoil Signature is a Group IV/V oil, better suited to long drain intervals and/or severe service. If your truck will be seeing normal service and <7k intervals, the other two (Group III hydrocracked dino, not technically full synthetic) will be fine and no, you wouldn't see any tangible difference with the expensive stuff.

Amsoil Signature really is a better oil (similar to the Red Line 5W20 that I use, $12/qt). It's not just marketing, but probably overkill for normal duty and reduce OCI's.

 

[Fuji4]

Also amsoil is only 9.5$/quart if you sign up for the preferred customer program. Which is $25/ year. If you have more than one car that makes sense. In any case I live in LA and change at 15kish miles with lots of city driving and some towing. For me the extra $24 per year over any other oil is worth the piece of mind and time saved. Getting my oil changed prematurely is a complete waste of time. And since I have it sent to black stone labs I don’t worry about it breaking down the TBN.

 

[mm3846]

• AMSOIL Signature Series 5W-20
• Mobile 1 EP 5W-20
• Kirkland Signature 5W-20

As an oil and LR4 Newb I would love to hear your thoughts or experiences with these oils. Open to other suggestions

...Also is it worth looking at other oil filter options outside of the OEM offering?

Thanks ahead!

I dont think the M1 meets the Ford/JLR spec. I know AMSOIL does, no idea about the Costco oil. I did my first change with the OEM Castrol but I'll be switching to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for the next one. It meets the spec and everything I've used that juice I've gotten good results. I'm going to be doing 7500 mi OCIs.

 

[gsxr]

Most of these oils DO NOT formally meet the JLR spec. Lots of discussion on the forum on this topic over the past few years, if you search you'll find plenty to read. Short version is, JLR spec is important if you want to stick with 15k OCI's. Otherwise, not so much.

 

[Balto]

Amsoil Signature is a Group IV/V oil, better suited to long drain intervals and/or severe service. If your truck will be seeing normal service and <7k intervals, the other two (Group III hydrocracked dino, not technically full synthetic) will be fine and no, you wouldn't see any tangible difference with the expensive stuff.

Amsoil Signature really is a better oil (similar to the Red Line 5W20 that I use, $12/qt). It's not just marketing, but probably overkill for normal duty and reduce OCI's.

Have you considered Redline 0w20? I was planning on going with 5W20 in my ‘15 even though it states 0W20. I went ahead and put the 0W20 into my ‘15 because after reading up on the redline it’s very clear that the 0W20 is a very heavy 0W20 and almost comparable to other companies 5W20.

 

[gsxr]

Have you considered Redline 0w20? I was planning on going with 5W20 in my ‘15 even though it states 0W20. I went ahead and put the 0W20 into my ‘15 because after reading up on the redline it’s very clear that the 0W20 is a very heavy 0W20 and almost comparable to other companies 5W20.

I didn't see any advantage to Red Line 0W-20 vs 5W-20, and my 2010 V8 originally spec'd 5W-20. I'm sure either will work fine in either engine.

 

[ktm525]

For the umpteenth time the JLR spec Castrol is not special and the old 925 spec is obsolete. It basically boosted the levels of the additive package to deal with possible fuel dilution from JLRs ridiculous 16k OCI and a DI engine.

Run a quality (even mediocre) synthetic and change at sane intervals. All the oils mentioned above are more than fine. Save your money for cross overs, water pumps, clutch fans and timing chain tensioners.

 

[Kuro50]

First, I'd just want to say THANK YOU to this community for helping me get through my first oil change ever

Sharing a couple tidbits from MY experience and decision making process that will hopefully help others get over their DIY jitters for LR4 oil changes. This is by no means gospel but it worked for ME

• Oil:Amsoil Signature Series 5W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil
  • Why did I choose this oil? I went down the "which oil is best?" rabbit hole. I chose Amsoil for a number of reasons.
    • It appears to meet the original spec for Land Rover extended mileage oil change intervals
    • Preferred Customer Program gives you 25% off. Most independent dealers will waive program cost for first year
    • It's readily available and shipped straight to your door! In a COVID world, this is as huge plus for me. I could have gone with a much cheaper alternative like Costco's Kirland 5W-20 but its rarely ever stocked at my local Costco.
    • I'm also lazy and preferred having the peace of mind incase of an extended duration between scheduled oil changes. Again.... DO NOT be afraid to use oils like Kirkland, Super Tech(Walmart), Mobile 1 EP, etc.. Based on conversations I've had with multiple land rover dealerships and recommendations across numerous forums, these will work JUST FINE.
    • It won the Project Farm Oilympics LOL (I love this guy)
    • AMSOIL FLEX LOL

• Oil Filter: In my interwebz travels I haven't seen much benefit from saving money by purchasing a cheaper filter or a high performance one, so I went the OEM option https://parts.landroverparamus.com/oem-parts/land-rover-oil-filter-lr011279 for $21.84 (at the time) it wasn't worth the time and hassle of looking around for other options.
  • Pro Tip: If you live near a land rover dealership you can avoid shipping by choosing pickup option

• Fluid Extractor: I went with the Deluxe Manual Fluid Extractor And Dispenser from Harbor Freight https://www.harborfreight.com/delux...penser-56384.html?_br_psugg_q=fluid+extractor. Why? Huge oil reservoir, Build quality in my hand felt better than the ubiquitous MV7201, and I had a 20% off coupon!
  • Pro Tip: Once you've reached about 8qts, empty the reservoir into a container and pump again. I pumped out a significant amount of remaining oil that was left in the engine on my second try.

• Oil Cap Wrench: I went with this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G15MJQX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Why? Build quality is SOLID! It appears to be a derivative design of the MX2325 Motivx which was not available at the time. It worked PERFECTLY. No skips or weird flexing. There are tons of options on Amazon that look like they follow the same design scheme.

• Torque Wrench: I went with the super duper cheap Harbor Freight option. Why? Because I'm only using it to tighten a oil filter cap to 25nm. https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-63880.html and it worked PERFECTLY. If you plan using it for other applications or want a something that might last you a bit longer, you may want to look into a nicer or more precise option (maybe digital). I'm sure you can hand tighten this cap but from my years of working on computers, I honestly just felt better about using the right amount of torque.

• Ratchet Wrench: Why? loosening oil cap. You could probably get away with not buying this but I needed one anyway https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3...king-Flex-Head-Ratchet-H100C38FLRAT/313954526

• 3/8 Extension Kit: https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-quick-release-extension-bar-set-4-pc-67976.html?_br_psugg_q=3/8+extension Gives you a bit more clearance when turning the oil filter cap

• Gloves: Why? Because I hate having dirty hands lol https://www.harborfreight.com/7-mil-nitrile-powder-free-gloves-50-pc-large-68505.html 7Mil is great general purpose thickness. This purchase is totally optional. If you don't care about dirty hands, don't spend the money.

• LR4 Worksop Manual: Why? Why not? They're relatively cheap and good to have in your back pocket if you plan on extending your DIY knowledge.
  • Pro Tip: If you're a visual learner, use Youtube.

• Simple Green or Super Degreaser: Why? Cleanup incase you make a mess (like I did) You can find both of these products pretty much anywhere.

• Oil Spill Mat: Why? Because ... oil https://www.amazon.com/Drymate-OSM2...hild=1&keywords=oil+mat&qid=1620017257&sr=8-5

Hopefully this helps! Open to any feedback or opinions. My hope is this inspires any first tine DIYers to save some money or start a fun project!

 

[ryanjl]

I have never heard of anyone using a torque wrench to tighten the oil filter cap. Congrats on taking oil **** retentiveness to the next level.