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DIY Oil Change for LR4

Discussion in 'LR4' started by 94speedster, Feb 28, 2012.

  1. gsxr

    gsxr Full Access Member

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    Isn't the 25Nm torque spec stamped on the cap? I also use the torque wench because (1) yup, I'm anal and (b), I have one taking up space in the toolbox already.

    Definitely worth having a couple different-range torque wrenches for general automotive use, although I'd consider shelling out for nicer brand-name units (not HF) if you do a fair amount of DIY work. The concern with the low-cost torque wrenches is they may drift out of calibration rapidly, or may be calibrated poorly out of the box. Not a big deal on the oil filter cap tho. I also use the torque wrench on the wheel lug nuts...

    :ahhhhh:
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2021
  2. ryanjl

    ryanjl Full Access Member

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    I just tighten the oil filter cap until it fully seats.
     
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  3. Kuro50

    Kuro50 Member

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    Yep, it says it on the cap and in the workshop manual. Totally agree with your points on investing in a nicer wrench if you plan on expanding your DIY horizons.

    With enough experience working on cars and a general understanding the nuances of "feel" when tightning, i'm sure a normal wrench would work just fine. I've seen enough people(including myself) break things from over torquing. For the 10 bucks I paid for the thing, it wasn't worth leaving it up to my inexperience and chance.
     
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  4. cperez

    cperez Full Access Member

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    LOL!

    I love this place.
     
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  5. cperez

    cperez Full Access Member

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    I use my torque wrench to set the filter cap, too. When I first read OP's shopping list, I actually thought he had purchased a separate ratchet for the OIL FILL cap, not the filter assembly. Now that DID sound anal to me but it was my mistake.

    Still, I got a good laugh out of Ryan's comment.
     
  6. Quijote

    Quijote Full Access Member

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    I may have mentioned this before somewhere here, but the filter housing design is such that the O-ring is making a radial seal against the housing. Add to that the fact that it is a fine thread, and as long as the gap is gone, you are pretty much good to go. You certainly don't want it to back off, but the compression of the O-ring will likely take care of that all by itself. Easy does it with the filter housing torque.
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2021
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  7. LB Bill

    LB Bill Full Access Member

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    Glad it all worked out for you! Thanks for taking the time w/ the write-up. Do I use a torque wrench..yep...why?...cause I have one..and it's spec'd...am I anal?...perhaps a little.
    One thing you might want to consider is exchanging that wrench you purchased for one w/ a little higher range cause you never know what might come up..like say..lug nuts! Anal about that? You bet!
     
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  8. Stuart Barnes

    Stuart Barnes Full Access Member

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    Yep. Torque it up. Everything has a standard or recommended torque, from a Phillips screw (I know it sounds stupid) all the way to propeller nut on an oil tanker.

    But I think the danger with the filter cap is over torquing, then inducing extra circumferential stress on a plastic part.

    I’m in the camp as above, the work of sealing is done by the o ring, and that’s why it should be changed each time. They get a material memory after all the heat cycles they’re exposed to and lose their elasticity.

    Land Rover Engine Oil Change "lubrication for the win”
     
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  9. txfromwi

    txfromwi Well-Known Member

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    I torque the oil filter cap. Hey the wrench is right there!

    BUT, I DO have an issue with using gloves. Sorry no gloves
    No project is successful until there is a mixture of some automotive fluid and blood.
    Just the way I am !
     
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