DIY Oil Change for LR4

gsxr

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I have never heard of anyone using a torque wrench to tighten the oil filter cap. Congrats on taking oil **** retentiveness to the next level.
Isn't the 25Nm torque spec stamped on the cap? I also use the torque ***** because (1) yup, I'm **** and (b), I have one taking up space in the toolbox already.

Definitely worth having a couple different-range torque wrenches for general automotive use, although I'd consider shelling out for nicer brand-name units (not HF) if you do a fair amount of DIY work. The concern with the low-cost torque wrenches is they may drift out of calibration rapidly, or may be calibrated poorly out of the box. Not a big deal on the oil filter cap tho. I also use the torque wrench on the wheel lug nuts...

:ahhhhh:
 
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Kuro50

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Isn't the 25Nm torque spec stamped on the cap? I also use the torque ***** because (1) yup, I'm **** and (b), I have one taking up space in the toolbox already.

Definitely worth having a couple different-range torque wrenches for general automotive use, although I'd consider shelling out for nicer brand-name units (not HF) if you do a fair amount of DIY work. The concern with the low-cost torque wrenches is they may drift out of calibration rapidly, or may be calibrated poorly out of the box. Not a big deal on the oil filter cap tho. I also use the torque wrench on the wheel lug nuts...

:ahhhhh:
Yep, it says it on the cap and in the workshop manual. Totally agree with your points on investing in a nicer wrench if you plan on expanding your DIY horizons.

With enough experience working on cars and a general understanding the nuances of "feel" when tightning, i'm sure a normal wrench would work just fine. I've seen enough people(including myself) break things from over torquing. For the 10 bucks I paid for the thing, it wasn't worth leaving it up to my inexperience and chance.
 

cperez

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Isn't the 25Nm torque spec stamped on the cap? I also use the torque ***** because (1) yup, I'm **** and (b), I have one taking up space in the toolbox already.

I use my torque wrench to set the filter cap, too. When I first read OP's shopping list, I actually thought he had purchased a separate ratchet for the OIL FILL cap, not the filter assembly. Now that DID sound **** to me but it was my mistake.

Still, I got a good laugh out of Ryan's comment.
 

Quijote

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I may have mentioned this before somewhere here, but the filter housing design is such that the O-ring is making a radial seal against the housing. Add to that the fact that it is a fine thread, and as long as the gap is gone, you are pretty much good to go. You certainly don't want it to back off, but the compression of the O-ring will likely take care of that all by itself. Easy does it with the filter housing torque.
 
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LB Bill

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Torque Wrench: I went with the super duper cheap Harbor Freight option.
Glad it all worked out for you! Thanks for taking the time w/ the write-up. Do I use a torque wrench..yep...why?...cause I have one..and it's spec'd...am I ****?...perhaps a little.
One thing you might want to consider is exchanging that wrench you purchased for one w/ a little higher range cause you never know what might come up..like say..lug nuts! **** about that? You bet!
 

Stuart Barnes

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Yep. Torque it up. Everything has a standard or recommended torque, from a Phillips screw (I know it sounds stupid) all the way to propeller nut on an oil tanker.

But I think the danger with the filter cap is over torquing, then inducing extra circumferential stress on a plastic part.

I’m in the camp as above, the work of sealing is done by the o ring, and that’s why it should be changed each time. They get a material memory after all the heat cycles they’re exposed to and lose their elasticity.

Land Rover Engine Oil Change "lubrication for the win”
 

txfromwi

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I torque the oil filter cap. Hey the wrench is right there!

BUT, I DO have an issue with using gloves. Sorry no gloves
No project is successful until there is a mixture of some automotive fluid and blood.
Just the way I am !
 

greiswig

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New-to-me 2016 SCV6 here, and one of the first things I want to do before putting any miles on it is to change the oil. So this thread was helpful. But I do have questions:

Before oil change: "meter" in the Service menu suggested that it was completely full. As in the line went all the way to the very top of the meter. I thought I had read somewhere that the full mark was actually the middle line on that meter, which makes sense...otherwise you risk overfilling it.

I sucked out 8L of used oil after letting the vehicle sit for a couple of hours. It was pretty dark for a gasser. Changed the filter, new O-rings, etc. Hmmm...does that mean it was NOT overfilled and that the meter is wrong?

Carefully measured 8L of oil out and put it in. Meter is still at the very top mark, just as you'd expect. I looked over the IID tool and on this forum for ways to calibrate the meter, but can't seem to find anything that would enable that. Am I wrong about the midpoint of that oil fill meter being the right target? Or is there a way to calibrate it? Or is 8L actually overfilling it somehow because there was something left somewhere else in the engine that didn't come out?
 

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