scott schmerge
Full Access Member
thats good news! I don’t have my fuel rail off yet on the drivers side so can’t quite see it but looks obstructed. That’s a relief
2011 LR4 Misfire/rough idle
- Thread starter TheDave
- Start date
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thats good news! I don’t have my fuel rail off yet on the drivers side so can’t quite see it but looks obstructed. That’s a relief
mklinker
Full Access Member
I think that's pretty excessive for number of hours. It requires removing the battery and tray, LH tray, engine covers, coil/injector harness, fuel rail, and injectors. I would say around 5 hours with the proper tools, but that's just my guesstimate. If anyone needs this done, I'll be happy to replace your injectors for $400 with you supplying all new parts.
It would probably be cheaper for me to fly you to boston for the weekend then go to the indy shop.
scott schmerge
Full Access Member
If anyone is interested. I bought my NGK plugs from this site. They were $96.12 for 8. Here is 15% off which would bring you to just over $80 or $10 a plug. Not bad
mklinker
Full Access Member
FYI, here is something weird.
My car has been sitting for 3 days. Before I let it sit, I had been running it off half a tank of gas with two cans of Iso Heet injector cleaner. I had run the car a bit while I was running around and trying to debug the issues.
Low and behold, today my car was running fine again, no misfires. I took it for a ride and it felt okay, a bit of hesitation on really hard acceleration.
SO maybe having the injector cleaner saturated gas cleaned up whatever was clogging the injectors up.
I'm still going to do the injector and sparkplug swap. I also have to do my water pump and transmission cooler lines, so I'm already digging deep into my car. My adventure starts Friday afternoon.
My car has been sitting for 3 days. Before I let it sit, I had been running it off half a tank of gas with two cans of Iso Heet injector cleaner. I had run the car a bit while I was running around and trying to debug the issues.
Low and behold, today my car was running fine again, no misfires. I took it for a ride and it felt okay, a bit of hesitation on really hard acceleration.
SO maybe having the injector cleaner saturated gas cleaned up whatever was clogging the injectors up.
I'm still going to do the injector and sparkplug swap. I also have to do my water pump and transmission cooler lines, so I'm already digging deep into my car. My adventure starts Friday afternoon.
scott schmerge
Full Access Member
Good luck. Keep us posted on progress!
While you're in there, I seriously recommend walnut blasting your intake valves. These trucks are direct injected and the blowby from both valve covers causes carbon buildup on the intake valves, mainly the RH (looking from inside the cockpit) valve cover is the culprit. The carbon build up on your valves will affect your engine's performance. Assuming you have good compression. Cleaning the injectors is just a 3rd of it, making sure you get an even flow and spray pattern. The another 3rd is spark, which you're replacing the spark plugs will fix that. The last 3rd is air, air flow is also important. Mine actually created a lip at the edge of the valves causing air to rise and create a loop, but air was present.
You might as well do the entire cooling system, front and rear crossover pipes, oil cooler pipe, and thermostat. Just be careful with popping the 90 degree ****** on the water pump, it can break and end up costing you a new updated version of the cooling pipes. It's a push fit connector, just push the black connector inwards and gently pull the 90 degree ****** out.
mklinker
Full Access Member
I've got the front crossover pipe, water pump, oil cooler pipe to swap out. I also have to swap out my transmission cooler lines which are leaking (theres a TSB about it).
Not sure if I have the heart to tackle the walnut blasting this weekend with all the other maintenance that I have to do in order to get my truck back on the road...
I did this... It's a pain in the butt and you want to have another person help guide the damn thing into place. The old one might or might not have a mounting bracket that sits on top of your front diff that holds the 2 together and in place. Mine didn't have it and it rubbed up against the front diff causing the leak. Anyhow, to put the new ones in, I removed the bracket from the 2 cooler lines and slide them in from front to rear. Once I have both in place, I mounted the bracket, snapped the 2 cooler lines in place, and just for added security I zipped tied it.
mklinker
Full Access Member
How much transmission fluid did you lose during the job?
Not much fluid in the lines, but I did lose quite a bit when it spewed out. When I tried to fill it when the truck has been sitting for a day, a lot of fluid spilled out of the fill plug. So I didn't fill it, I recon I am missing about 1 quart including all the fluid I lost before replacing the pipes. A master mech told me that I have to loosen the fill plug, start the cold truck, remove the fill plug, pump the missing quart or so back in, and replace the plug. I just haven't had time to do it. I've driven it almost 1k miles like this, but need to do it soon for a peace of mind.
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