2012 fault lights!!!!

[cperez]

the next day the dealer pulled up many codes also but were completely different than Autozone codes....

At least we now know that they were going off a collection of codes and have to trust that they did the initial repairs in good faith. Replacing the rotors for no charge also shows some measure of good faith on their part, IMO. The leaking water pump doesn't sound related to any of this but if they discovered it during other services, they saved your bacon from possible catastrophe. The failing parking brake also seems like bad luck but unrelated to the suspension warnings...just making some semi-educated guesses here.

Try to see if you can get the codes from the dealer. Tell them that you are trying to research things on your end. I don't see why they would object unless they are hyper liability-averse. Maybe the codes are already on your invoices. Barring this, go back to Auto Zone and take screen shots of the codes on their reader. Every known code can be found with a google search. That would be a good next step that would bring a methodical approach to the problem(s).

 

[stephen munion]

I would rather not say what dealer in Massachusetts im going to and yes when the upper and lower control arms were changed they had to do an ailment

 

[Quijote]

Have we not concluded by now that the first thing to look at in terms of faults is the battery?

OP, how old is your battery?

 

[cperez]

Have we not concluded by now that the first thing to look at in terms of faults is the battery?

Good application of Occam's Razor, but the symptoms didn't jump out as the ones we normally associate with dying batteries. Still, good suggestion and I hope for OP's sake that you are correct!

 

[jaamrode]

I’m going to say this sounds likes a ride height sensor fault. From my experience the suspension doesn’t lower for a brake error.

 

[scott schmerge]

Sorry guys .... I wasn’t explaining 100%.... When I 1st brought LR4 in they pulled codes ... I brought to Autozone and they pulled many codes also right before I brought to dealer... the next day the dealer pulled up many codes also but were completely different than Autozone codes.... now this was last year... They thought it was the brakes and rotors , front and back.... Had them replaced! No luck fault light still on.... Next step was front end ... meaning the upper and lower control arms replaced.... still no luck... also changed the brake switch under brake pedal... still no luck!!!.... next thing to go was the water pump because it was leaking.... nothing to do w the fault light.... I the meantime dealership changed the brakes again thinking I had possibly bad new rotors installed the 1st time... no charge.... still no luck!!! Fault lights again after they clear.... And last was the parking brake failing making an unbelievable loud noise and locking up.... had that repaired by itself for $1600 !!! Ridiculous!!! And guess what!! Still these effing fault lights coming on and LR4 lowers and drives terrible.... seems these fault lights clear over night ... next morning starts up w no fault lights..... then after a small drive or after a couple of starts faults come back on..... Absolute nightmare and before I change the main computer at probably $2000 I want to make sure that this is the problem finally.... I will never buy another Land Rover/Range Rover again.... Sorry first time on this site and didn’t explain exactly what’s going on

Have you tried a good throttle body clean?

I know it sounds crazy but I was having all kinds of crazy crap going on. Truck was going into restricted performance and all kinds of traction control, cruise control, etc issues were coming up. Ran fine and then would go crazy. Might be worth a shot and won’t cost you more than $5 (if you don’t already have a can of throttle body cleaner).

I’d also suggest if you have a gap tool, reflashing your pcm and recalibrating suspension and steering angle sensor.

 

[NASdiesel]

I'm sorry. You guys are throwing out some great thoughts. But the poster, needs to tell us what the codes are that were recorded on his receipt from the dealer. ANY dealer, even the shitiest, creates a receipt with the fault codes, notes and what they did. In lieu of the gap tool readouts, we will all keep guessing. Stephen, post the codes or receipt (blackout the dealer info), give this group something. Otherwise, don't bother.

 

[jlach993]

I would rather not say what dealer in Massachusetts im going to and yes when the upper and lower control arms were changed they had to do an ailment

Lol why not....

 

[scott schmerge]

I'm sorry. You guys are throwing out some great thoughts. But the poster, needs to tell us what the codes are that were recorded on his receipt from the dealer. ANY dealer, even the shitiest, creates a receipt with the fault codes, notes and what they did. In lieu of the gap tool readouts, we will all keep guessing. Stephen, post the codes or receipt (blackout the dealer info), give this group something. Otherwise, don't bother.

Agreed. But when the dealer is not solving it, doing some things that cost little to no money and probably need doing anyway are where I’d start.

Gap tool would be really helpful here...not just for reading codes, but for doing something about it.

 

[PaulLR3]

Your issues sound like a bad brake switch. I know they put a new one in but I would try one more. It's a cheap part. But as noted, pulling codes should solve the mystery.

I gave up on Land Rover Hanover service years ago and go to Land Rover Cape Cod for dealer service. They are both owned by Prime Motor Group but the shop foreman (Brandon) at LRCC is so knowledgeable and fixes issues correctly with one try. May be worth the trip for you.