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Never done this, but it should work.
How To Gain Legroom - Non-power Seat Modification
by Jonathan Hensel
I am sure anyone with an inseam longer than, say, a foot and a half, has noticed that the legroom in a Disco is severely lacking, and disproportionate to it's vast amount of headroom. I am 6'-6" and have had to modify seating in almost every vehicle I've owned.
This mod was done on a D1 with non-powered seats. Non-powered seats usually have more travel than powered seats anyway, and are generally easy to modify. But this was a dream in the Disco, I gained 6 inches of legroom without a single hole to be drilled, and completely reversible back to stock condition. All you need is a 5mm allen wrench (or Torx wrench). Use a ball end "L" type as opposed to a "T" handle allen wrench for accessibility.
I'd take pictures, but instead I whipped up a quick & dirty CAD model of the seat slider assembly, shown here in stock condition, in nominal "center" position. Note Blue slider rail overlaps Red frame rail completely:
When you pull up on the adjustment handle the seat has 13 "clicks" forward and 5 "clicks" back. All the way forward:
Now, all the way backward. Not fair! Only 5 clicks back?
So, we are going flip the rails around to give us 13 clicks backward and 5 clicks forward. Still plenty of room for short people because 13 clicks forward crams the seat so close to the dash you'd have to have 2" diameter legs to fit anyway. First move the seat to it's fully forward position, and remove the two screws holding the front of the seat to the blue slider rail:
Then move the seat all the way back and remove the 2 other screws holding the back of the seat to the slider. You'll have to hold the seat up with your shoulder as it will want to tip back on you:
Store the seat somewhere. Now remove the four screws holding the red track to the frame. Gain access to screws by sliding the top tracks to the opposite side. The handle in sprung outwardly against the tracks so it will want to spread them apart, so when you are on the last 2 screws just squeeze the handles free ends together and remove it:
With the handle put aside, take the track closest to you and rotate it 180° so the front is now the back, and put it on the other far frame rail. Take the far track flip it 180° and put it on the close frame rail. Now you should have 5 clicks forward and 13 clicks back. Although there are many holes in the track, there are only 2 slotted holes that will actually line up with the holes on the frame. Mount the 2 rear screws:
Now re-mount the handle so you can slide the tracks back. You have two choices to mount the hande;
A) Facing forward like it was before. If you do this you have to flip the handle around to have the angled section facing up instead of down or you will interfere with the frame crossmember. This is how I did it, You will now push down to adjust the seat instead of pulling up. You have to be a little careful not to pinch your fingers when adjusting the seat all the way back. You'll see.
B) Facing backwards. You have to reach around the back or access the handle from the rear door, but will be less prone to pinch your fingers. Only drawback is, someone sitting in the back seat could kick the handle and you would slide forward! I decided against this choice for that reason.
Now just reattach seat to top rail with the 4 screws and enjoy your extra six inches. I suggest you only adjust the seat when standing outside the vehicle, because you really can pinch your fingers in there. If you have your weight in the seat when adjusting and pinch your fingers you might be called "Nubby" from then on.
How To Gain Legroom - Non-power Seat Modification
by Jonathan Hensel
I am sure anyone with an inseam longer than, say, a foot and a half, has noticed that the legroom in a Disco is severely lacking, and disproportionate to it's vast amount of headroom. I am 6'-6" and have had to modify seating in almost every vehicle I've owned.
This mod was done on a D1 with non-powered seats. Non-powered seats usually have more travel than powered seats anyway, and are generally easy to modify. But this was a dream in the Disco, I gained 6 inches of legroom without a single hole to be drilled, and completely reversible back to stock condition. All you need is a 5mm allen wrench (or Torx wrench). Use a ball end "L" type as opposed to a "T" handle allen wrench for accessibility.
I'd take pictures, but instead I whipped up a quick & dirty CAD model of the seat slider assembly, shown here in stock condition, in nominal "center" position. Note Blue slider rail overlaps Red frame rail completely:
When you pull up on the adjustment handle the seat has 13 "clicks" forward and 5 "clicks" back. All the way forward:
Now, all the way backward. Not fair! Only 5 clicks back?
So, we are going flip the rails around to give us 13 clicks backward and 5 clicks forward. Still plenty of room for short people because 13 clicks forward crams the seat so close to the dash you'd have to have 2" diameter legs to fit anyway. First move the seat to it's fully forward position, and remove the two screws holding the front of the seat to the blue slider rail:
Then move the seat all the way back and remove the 2 other screws holding the back of the seat to the slider. You'll have to hold the seat up with your shoulder as it will want to tip back on you:
Store the seat somewhere. Now remove the four screws holding the red track to the frame. Gain access to screws by sliding the top tracks to the opposite side. The handle in sprung outwardly against the tracks so it will want to spread them apart, so when you are on the last 2 screws just squeeze the handles free ends together and remove it:
With the handle put aside, take the track closest to you and rotate it 180° so the front is now the back, and put it on the other far frame rail. Take the far track flip it 180° and put it on the close frame rail. Now you should have 5 clicks forward and 13 clicks back. Although there are many holes in the track, there are only 2 slotted holes that will actually line up with the holes on the frame. Mount the 2 rear screws:
Now re-mount the handle so you can slide the tracks back. You have two choices to mount the hande;
A) Facing forward like it was before. If you do this you have to flip the handle around to have the angled section facing up instead of down or you will interfere with the frame crossmember. This is how I did it, You will now push down to adjust the seat instead of pulling up. You have to be a little careful not to pinch your fingers when adjusting the seat all the way back. You'll see.
B) Facing backwards. You have to reach around the back or access the handle from the rear door, but will be less prone to pinch your fingers. Only drawback is, someone sitting in the back seat could kick the handle and you would slide forward! I decided against this choice for that reason.
Now just reattach seat to top rail with the 4 screws and enjoy your extra six inches. I suggest you only adjust the seat when standing outside the vehicle, because you really can pinch your fingers in there. If you have your weight in the seat when adjusting and pinch your fingers you might be called "Nubby" from then on.
