Battery Issue? AGM Lifetime?

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avslash

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I did much the same but only installed connectors (Delphi Weather Pack https://theelectricaldepot.com/weather-pack-delphi-connectors?zenid=afaad1bd8a5f7d715509337017d83253 ) and a switching box to toggle between the cranking and aux battery of my Traxide system.

The jpg's below show the switching box, the Weather Pack connector that can hang thru the grill and the CTEK US3300 maintainer. I usually connect up the batteries about twice a year. It takes a week of charging overnight for each battery to bring them back to where the maintainer just sits on float.

I do have a cigarette lighter connector type solar panel that I have used as a battery maintainer for my plane but do not use any longer as the plane is now hangared and is hooked to a power cart.

I could set the panel on the dash for when parked all day outside and plug it into the aux socket that is now connected full time to the battery independent of the ignition.

View attachment 12462

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I think we discussed this at some point.

I just rely on Traxide's affirmation that both batteries will be fully charged regardless of which one is connected to a charger. I have my underhood charger connected to the cranking battery, but my volt meter tells me that both are, indeed, charged after the charger has kicked into float mode and I disconnect it.

As to the earlier post about a Group 31 battery, if one is willing to ditch the battery covers, I think there is a reasonable chance that would fit. Just judging from the random things I have left lying around the engine compartment when working a still managing to close the hood. As to whether the cable would fit; I would think some modification would be necessary there.
 

ktm525

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Has anyone tried a group 31? 31’s have a reputation of being built better than standard auto batteries and will have more CCA and Res capacity than a H8/49 battery. A 31 will be more of the size of a H7 LxW but is about 2inches taller than a H8 or H7. Just not sure if the cables will reach and if there is room under the hood for the extra height.


Hey if you are going to paraphrase someone...lol
 

bbyer

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I think we discussed this at some point.

I just rely on Traxide's affirmation that both batteries will be fully charged regardless of which one is connected to a charger. I have my underhood charger connected to the cranking battery, but my volt meter tells me that both are, indeed, charged after the charger has kicked into float mode and I disconnect it.
I would agree that you are correct that connecting just to the cranking battery will then charge the aux as well.

I do not think it works the other way around and hence the reason for my switching box - to charge just the aux battery.

I am thinking that next time around for new batteries, I should try to find the older "maintenance free" battery design. I will still install the H7 size as for me, getting older, it is tough enough to get the H7 in and out with out struggling with something an 1-5/8" inches longer and 5 pounds (49 vs 54) heavier.

In fact my deal with Interstate is that I will do the hookup etc but one of the young guys will have to lift out the old one and set the new one. Stay young!

I might note that I do not like the look of a battery with a green plastic top cover - something is just not right and hence the factory battery covers remain very much in place - no Group 31 for me.

Interstate MTP-H7 Group 94R battery.jpg


Covers installed on both.jpg
 

avslash

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Here is what Traxide says, in case anyone is following the discussion:

From their website:

SOLAR and BATTERY CHARGER Connections.

Again, with the unique way the USI-160 operates in the SHARED Mode, you can connect solar panels ( via a solar regulator ) or a battery charger to either battery in a USI-160 dual battery set up and all batteries will recharged.

If you have an Anderson plug mounted at the back of your vehicle, you can make your solar or battery charger connection through the Anderson plug and again, all batteries in a USI-160 dual battery set up will be charged.

But if you have a specific need to only charge your Auxiliary Battery, then by selecting IGNITION Mode and connecting the solar panels or battery charger to the Auxiliary Battery, you will be able to charge it, while the Cranking battery remains isolated.



http://www.traxide.com.au/diy-dual-battery-kits/land-rover-dbs-kits/discovery-3-dbs-kits/d3-du.html
 

bbyer

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I have the older SC80-LR controller which does not have any sort of interior mounted control box.

I have thought of upgrading my SC-80 to the SC-160 with the control box but have yet to do so.

The truth is I am not certain just how or what the limitations of the older unit is, however it does work for me.

I have yet to be stopped just because one the the AGM batteries did the instant fail thing - one of them seems to keep the 3 going. The more I think of it, I might just go back to the older maintenance free battery next time - at least the top of the battery will be black and maybe they will fail slowly as I was once used to.

Traxide SC80-LR-+-FPC full wiring diagram.jpg
 

Toran

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I am 5yrs into my Optima Yellowtop battery.
When the truck isnt being used it is plugged into a CTEK charger
 

f1racer328

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I am 5yrs into my Optima Yellowtop battery.
When the truck isnt being used it is plugged into a CTEK charger
Which Yellowtop did you buy? When my battery was ******** the bed I couldn't find an Optima that would fit (H7 or H8)
 

Toran

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Which Yellowtop did you buy? When my battery was ******** the bed I couldn't find an Optima that would fit (H7 or H8)

Optima Battery 8012-021 D34 YellowTop Dual Purpose Battery.

I had to look at my records and I noticed I purchased this battery on Feb 6, 2015. It was installed right away. I use it with a CTEK Multi US 7002 Battery Charger with a quick connector so no need to pop the hood to charge the battery. It has a setting that is made for AGM batteries.
 

BendRover123

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One question I have, since LR3s are driving computers with about ~60 LRUs, what will those high frequency pulses do to these gentle and delicate Landrover LRUs and electronics over time?

I have a fancy charger that has a desulfurization mode and it explicitly states to disconnect your auto battery from the car electronics prior to using it. So just curious if you experienced any wonky Wes and electric Gremlins starting to breed in your Landrover since install?

For the people who routinely have batteries fail at 2-3 years... anyone try a full-time desulfator like the PulseTech PowerPulse? I use these on all my vehicles and batteries generally last 6-10 years, but I'm not in Arizona with 120°F ambients either. If the vehicle will be parked more than a few weeks, it must be connected to a trickle charger/maintainer, if using the PowerPulse.

https://www.pulsetech.net/pp-12-l-powerpulse-12-volt-battery-maintenance-system.html

https://www.amazon.com/PulseTech-PowerPulse-Battery-Maintenance-System/dp/B0176EZ3AO/

IMPROVE BATTERY PERFORMANCE AND EXTEND BATTERY LIFE

PowerPulse is not a charger. Charging doesn’t eliminate the main cause of battery failure – energy robbing lead sulfate deposits on battery plates. During this process, the plates gradually become more and more clogged with microscopic lead sulfate deposits. These deposits eventually limit the surface area available for energy transfer and cut back the battery’s ability to accept, store and release energy.

PowerPulse is a performance device designed to help batteries charge faster and provide maximum performance and power by generating an intermittent, optimized high frequency pulse that reduces existing sulfate deposits and keeps them from building up again. The patented Pulse Technology circuit has been scientifically proven by researchers at two major universities to improve battery performance and longevity.

This small weatherproof product can supplement your existing charging system and can be powered in two different ways. When the battery is being charged either by an onboard charger or a separate charging system, it will use the charging current as a power source. The rest of the time PowerPulse uses a small portion of the battery’s own energy so it is working 24-hours a day so you don’t need an electrical outlet. Accordingly, it should only be used on vehicles or equipment that is regularly used and frequently charged.

· Works on all lead-acid batteries including conventional flooded, sealed maintenance-free, Valve Regulated Lead-Acid (VRLA), Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM), hybrid, antimony, and calcium-plate designs
· Ensures peak battery performance by eliminating the main cause of lead-acid battery problems and failure – sulfation buildup on battery plates
· Increases battery life span up to three times longer
· Provides greater charge acceptance so batteries recharge faster
· Helps protect the environment by preventing premature battery disposal
· Includes an LED light that indicates the circuit is energized and the unit is working
· Safe, reliable and weather proof
· Five-Year Limited Warranty
 

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