Considering a 2014 LR4 Lux Package.... Need Some Advice

[D_Walt]

I had an LR3 that I took from new to ~200K miles (I forget the exact amount now).
I bought my current 2013 LR4 at 50K miles, just out of warranty, with no regrets. It is a well built dependable car. It's not completely trouble free like a Toyota might be for you... but it's not a high maintenance car, just more costly when things go wrong. Find an independent land rover mechanic around you. Go to the dealer if you have an extended warranty work, go to your independent mechanic when you're paying.

Any nuances, like if the car is going to be a problem, would've popped up by now. I did get an extended warranty through 100K which paid for itself. If you can get one of those you should price that in. It'll give you peace of mind about things in your list you can't control.

You're doing the right research, if you don't turn up any concerns about this specific car... buy it. You'll love it. Parked outside daily driver is not an issue. You'll appreciate the heated seats, steering wheel and windshield in your PA winters.

@toddjb122 I appreciate your advice. I am going to drive/inspect the vehicle on saturday. It is private sale, or else I would go for the extended warranty (I wonder if LR would sell me a extended warranty? Probably not). I've checked the carfax so no surprises in the paperwork. Going to inspect the engine bay and undercarriage, suspension etc.. But from what I can tell it is a well maintained pavement-only Rover so I think everything will check out. I plan to keep it for a year as a daily driver and then if I can't part with it it will become my second vehicle. It still makes me a little nervous but I do take car of vehicles and do preventative maintenance so I think it will be dependable!

 

[D_Walt]

Another question for anyone... If the car sits overnight and is not started, does the suspension automatically sink or should it stay inflated over this period of 8-12 hours. I'm a noob and I don't know much about air suspension. What would the signs be if the system has issues?

 

[Troy A]

Another question for anyone... If the car sits overnight and is not started, does the suspension automatically sink or should it stay inflated over this period of 8-12 hours. I'm a noob and I don't know much about air suspension. What would the signs be if the system has issues?

It stays pressurized. It does not go up and down like an old Citroen.

A sign of an issue would be that it DID sink every night.


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[DirtyHal]

Another question for anyone... If the car sits overnight and is not started, does the suspension automatically sink or should it stay inflated over this period of 8-12 hours. I'm a noob and I don't know much about air suspension. What would the signs be if the system has issues?

When you park the car and lock it for the night the air suspension will self-level, you'll hear a hiss as you get out. It's not going to sink dramatically but it will adjust slightly.

The car tries to stay level so it will keep adjusting itself if there is a leak somewhere in the system. To combat the self-leveling you check for leaks by disconnecting the EAS relay or the battery and letting it sit overnight. If there is a leak it will only happen in the affected area as the car won't try to self-level. You can also tell if the system is low by how long the compressor runs after letting the car sit overnight. If it is for more than 3 minutes it may have an issue. I'd say 2 minutes or so is normal.

 

[Robin Parsons]

I have the same, now with 110k miles. I have loved it, and it is my daily driver, about 20k a year, also my service truck.

ABSOLUTELY change the crossover pipes, front and rear. Now. Dont wait for the usual 75k reccomendations, as you know it will have to be done. Just do it.

Water pump will usually leak slowly, but will need changing.

The control arm bushings go every 40 to 60k, forever, unless you operate to the harder poly. But you loose the smooth ride.

Timing chain will need replacement by 95 to 100k. But you should hear the rattle as warning.

Also the super charger coupler will start to rattle when it needs changing.

If you get a good price for it,I would do the pipes, pump, SC coupler, timing chain, etc...all at once. Most dealers are between 500. And 1000 to remove the super charger. So better to only do it once.

I also did plugs and injectors at 103087.4 miles. And added the trans kit with a trans flush at 65k miles.

They are ******* brakes also, so i upgraded to heavy duty drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads. 55k miles later, very little wear.

If it has a full clean maintenance history, and is very good condition, go for it. They do have their issues. But there is just nothing else that does what it does, as good as it does.

 

[RTV2 Rovers]

My LR3 experience. 170K on my 2006; 8K in the past 9 months. New Years drove State roads Chicago to Tuscon for rock crawling in the Arizona desert... 85MPH back to Chicago. Last month spent 3 weeks in CO climbing everything (pic at left top of Ajax), 2600 miles averaged 17MPG, yes roof rack and all. Daily driven by my wife and kids and the weekend hunting vehicle driving into the woods and muddy fields (my GSP loves it). Parked outside year round in Chicago's Northern suburbs. Returning from vacation at the end of the 2014 Polar Vortex, dug it out, pried open the door and it started right up. In full disclosure needed to replace the battery in mid summer but it happens. Post warranty, nothing very memorable outside general wear items many fixed myself with the help of this forum and carefully vetted on-line videos. For big items and general service great local independent shop, (find one and pay what they state it costs; shout out to Teddy and the Imports Unlimited crew, Highland Park, IL.) Key, keep up on the maintenance and very very regular oil changes... with Castrol. Major 2020 decision to invest back in - as a previous "007" referenced post in this thread alluded the vehicle has more than enough muscle for any gritty off-track adventure yet wash it up and drive it for a night out, the valet willingly jumps in parking it close. 2020 investment: front lower control arms, rear upper control arms, swaybar bushings, Full trans service w/updated pan, differentials serviced, three corroded rear A/C lines replaced (not a DYI, icy cold air now) and replaced corroded fuel tank support; Chicago winter salt is tough but the body and interior still immaculate. Costly, sure but not when amortized. Truly looked but not liking anything new by drive, toughness, looks... Have a 2011 RR Sport that is my daily driver, great "car" different drive... the LR3 though is family. No guarantees but our experience awesome.