Coolant Crossover Pipe Repair 5.0 V8

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RoverTide

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The saga continues... About a hundred miles after installing the new water pump, oil cooler coolant pipe, and crossovers, the damn thing puked up coolant all over the valley, and front of the engine again... I assumed the new Y-Pipe failed, so i took it apart again, and could not find anything broken. Took the y-pipe off and tested the seams by taping up the holes and blowing air into it, and determined the pipe itself doesn't leak... the only other things I did when I put it back together (besides inspecting everywhere I could think of for leaks) was... 1. I gave the oil cooler pipe a slight bit more of a turn into the "Locked" position... and 2. I added a few washers to the top mounting screw on the Y-pipe (near the hose that goes to the thermostat). Reason I did that, is because when I seated the Y-pipe and torqued it down to the block, there was about a 3/8 inch gap between the plastic pipe and the screw hole (this is where the washers went), so when I would tighten the top screw, it would slightly pull the pipe forward and, I assume, unseat the y-pipe on the block (opposite the mounting screws) just enough to let coolant get past the o-rings... strange, but so far, its holding coolant. :dontknow:

On to the next project... Windshield cowl and A-pillar clip replacement.
 

f1racer328

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How are you bleeding the cooling system? If you do the vacuum fill/bleed you can pressure test it before running the engine.
 

LB Bill

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Reason I did that, is because when I seated the Y-pipe and torqued it down to the block, there was about a 3/8 inch gap between the plastic pipe and the screw hole (this is where the washers went), so when I would tighten the top screw, it would slightly pull the pipe forward and, I assume, unseat the y-pipe on the block (opposite the mounting screws) just enough to let coolant get past the o-rings... strange, but so far, its holding coolant.
If I were you I would be wondering about that replacement pipe (fit) and if it's the correct spec., or maybe the quality. Which source?...dealer?
 

RoverTide

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How are you bleeding the cooling system? If you do the vacuum fill/bleed you can pressure test it before running the engine.
Opening bleeder valves, full heat front and rear, running engine at 3k rpm for a bit... Then driving it and checking tank levels often... Rinse repeat. Also checking tank and radiator hoses every morning when cold.

If I keep having issues, I will prob be looking at the vacuum fill/bleed tool.
 

RoverTide

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If I were you I would be wondering about that replacement pipe (fit) and if it's the correct spec., or maybe the quality. Which source?...dealer?
Agreed. I thought I purchased the genuine LR pipe from Atl British as part of a kit they sell, but apparently the water pump and oil cooler pipe were the only genuine LR parts in my order... I purchased over the phone, so maybe I wasn't clear, or the guy misinterpreted me. Will probably be purchasing a new one from the LR dealer in the near future.
 

ryanjl

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Heat can be harsh. I'm not brave enough yet to take my LR4 to Death Valley when it is 130F, but I've driven it in 120F heat. When I got the truck the weather was super hot and it looked like the rear crossover sprung a new leak and dripped down on the transmission. I'm curious if the radiator is another fail point or do they typically last longer than 150k? If I recall correctly, they are part plastic which is a new thing for me.

Not sure how common radiator problems are, but mine was replaced when I had my timing chains done as part of the last hurrah at the tail end of my CPO warranty. Just under 80k miles and just under 6 years old.
 

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