Coolant Crossover Pipe Repair 5.0 V8

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RoverTide

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After driving for a little while, its leaking again. Looks like a pressure test is in order. Hoping I can do that while the intake manifold is raised up enough with all the coolant lines still connected so I can see what is going on. Can't really get the endoscope far enough in there to see everything. Patience is waning...
 

txfromwi

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I did not re-read the entire string, perhaps this is mentioned.

Did you do the water pump??

If so, are you aware that the original water pump in the 2013 and the water pump you will be purchasing now are different?
And because of that difference, you ALSO need to replace the oil cooler tube - the bit from the water pump to the oil cooler.
And you also need to replace the "o-ring / gasket" between the new plastic oil cooler tube and where it slides over the oil cooler pipe.

The new water pump and old oil cooler tube are not going to be compatible, yes, they will fit together, but that combination will leak.
That particular leak will be apparent down the front of the block.
 

RoverTide

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I did not re-read the entire string, perhaps this is mentioned.

Did you do the water pump??

If so, are you aware that the original water pump in the 2013 and the water pump you will be purchasing now are different?
And because of that difference, you ALSO need to replace the oil cooler tube - the bit from the water pump to the oil cooler.
And you also need to replace the "o-ring / gasket" between the new plastic oil cooler tube and where it slides over the oil cooler pipe.

The new water pump and old oil cooler tube are not going to be compatible, yes, they will fit together, but that combination will leak.
That particular leak will be apparent down the front of the block.
Not mentioned previously, but I purchased the new version of the water pump, oil cooler pipe and o-ring... all genuine LR parts.
 

ktm525

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Got a cat stamped on it. Then you know you have OE

Screenshot 2023-10-20 201148.png
 

RoverTide

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I would get some new coolant pipes. Probably a manufacturing defect on yours.
Well, we are about to find out. Just installed a new front pipe I bought from the dealership last night. Currently in the bleed process, and driving short distances to make sure it is not leaking.

Before replacing the pipe, I did a pressure test on it, and my endoscope showed coolant slowly leaking from where the pipe fits into the block. So, I am hoping that the new OEM pipe will provide a better fit/seal. The top mounting hole certainly lined up better than the last one... no washers needed. Cautiously optimistic this saga is over.

Lesson learned: Double check that you are purchasing oem parts.
 

gsxr

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Lesson learned: Double check that you are purchasing oem parts.
Was the previous pipe from Atlantic British visibly different, i.e. lacking JLR or FoMoCo markings on it?

When buying parts from aftermarket vendors you must be VERY careful that they aren't selling aftermarket copies when you think you are receiving OE/Genuine JLR parts.

Also keep in mind that OEM is not the same as OE... some vendors have misleading marketing copy. The OE part is Genuine JLR, with a JLR package/box/label, what the dealer sells. OEM is aftermarket that should be manufactured by the same company as the OE part. OEM is sometimes the same as OE but without the Genuine box/label, but not alway; in some cases the OEM part may be different/inferior.

I detest vendors that don't make this explicitly clear on their websites. If the price seems too good to be true, it probably is.

:motz:
 

txfromwi

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Please pardon if you already know this, but for those that may find this thread in the future...

See video below. Watch from 53:50 to 57:00.
Note exactly where that the thicker bit on the semi circle on the oil cooler tube engages in the block,there is a small "channel" in the block and the tube must be rotated to the correct rotation to engage properly.
And this shows the re-design.

For those with the V6, this is exactly the same (not the entire video.. just this bit...)

 

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