Crossover pipe work

[txfromwi]

In addition to 16FujiDisco comments about children - which are true btw...

The blue tab coolant line release on the passenger side (US) rear crossover is tight even with everything out.
And the hardest bolt on the rear crossover is on the passenger side (US), as I seem to recall it was the bottom one.
Can't imagine actually trying to properly torque that bolt without sufficient access. It was hard enough even with access because of that A/C bracket.

The windshield cowling is a piece of plastic, sure that's easy, but it covers sheet metal and won't get you anything - see attached photo.
If the cowling comes off just replace it with a new one because at 120K miles it has warped and the seal on the windshield has almost certainly failed. Based on owning 3 of these LR4's, that warp spot is repeatably worst on the passenger side (US) just above the scoop for the air intake. Leaks at that point will put water on the passenger floor boards.

Additionally, at 120K the coupling on the SC is shot and needs to be replaced. It is just possible to do that job without removing the SC but draining the oil is easier and more complete when SC is removed.

Hire whomever you want, it's your project. Good Luck!

But...

There is a reason, beyond being enthusiasts, that we do these projects ourselves - that's because there are a lot of mechanics out there that claim they know what they are doing - including at the dealerships - and their work is well, let's just say it's excremental...

 

[greiswig]

He must be using children with tiny arms to do this work . Even with the SC off you have blind access to the the screws for the rear pipe, so I can’t imagine trying with everything on.

^This.^ I don't see how it could be done, even knowing how to do it. Especially reassembly and getting the loom secured again.

And TBH, removing the supercharger is not that difficult, and gives you a chance to do more (likely necessary) work. There's a tube under the SC that might need replacing, there's the oil in the SC, there's the coupler in the SC...

 

[tj5693]

Unfortunately, I'm not feeling very good about this situation now. I spoke to him yesterday when he was adamant that he didn't need to pull the SC to do the rear crossover. He had already ordered it and is starting the work based on my prior approval. I did ask him for a quote on doing the front crossover, water pump, and thermostat. He said he couldn't do the work as he didn't have the proper tool to pull this specific SC (or something like that). Based on all the comments, I'm fearful I'm going to get a phone call saying "turns out I do need to remove the SC after all" (and he doesn't have the tool to do it).

I guess once this is complete (to address the immediate need of the coolant leak), I'll be going to a dealer for the front pipe, water pump, and thermostat. Reason I didn't go to a dealer in the first place was me looking to save $$$, and this mechanic being very reputable.

Thanks all!

 

[f1racer328]

Unfortunately, I'm not feeling very good about this situation now. I spoke to him yesterday when he was adamant that he didn't need to pull the SC to do the rear crossover. He had already ordered it and is starting the work based on my prior approval. I did ask him for a quote on doing the front crossover, water pump, and thermostat. He said he couldn't do the work as he didn't have the proper tool to pull this specific SC (or something like that). Based on all the comments, I'm fearful I'm going to get a phone call saying "turns out I do need to remove the SC after all" (and he doesn't have the tool to do it).

I guess once this is complete (to address the immediate need of the coolant leak), I'll be going to a dealer for the front pipe, water pump, and thermostat. Reason I didn't go to a dealer in the first place was me looking to save $$$, and this mechanic being very reputable.

Thanks all!

Does this guy specialize on European vehicles/Land Rovers? There are two shops around where I live that do, and this is all they work on so I've never had issues with them. But taking it to a normal "good" mechanic isn't necessarily a bad thing, but they might realize that they misquoted a job or don't have a specific tool to work on our rigs.

 

[Rover Range]

There are NO special tools required to remove the S/C.

Just these common tools: Torx T40, T30. !0mm and 7mm sockets. Belt tensioner tool.

 

[timc930]

Unfortunately, I'm not feeling very good about this situation now. I spoke to him yesterday when he was adamant that he didn't need to pull the SC to do the rear crossover. He had already ordered it and is starting the work based on my prior approval. I did ask him for a quote on doing the front crossover, water pump, and thermostat. He said he couldn't do the work as he didn't have the proper tool to pull this specific SC (or something like that). Based on all the comments, I'm fearful I'm going to get a phone call saying "turns out I do need to remove the SC after all" (and he doesn't have the tool to do it).

I guess once this is complete (to address the immediate need of the coolant leak), I'll be going to a dealer for the front pipe, water pump, and thermostat. Reason I didn't go to a dealer in the first place was me looking to save $$$, and this mechanic being very reputable.

Thanks all

Having done this, any competent mechanic can do front/rear pipes, WP, Therm etc etc, and I am sure there are good tech's that have never touched a LR that would do a better job then some of the dealer techs (from what I have personally experienced at a MB dealer when doing work on our E320 years ago). If he is good, attentive/has good attention to detail, I would not worry about it.

 

[tj5693]

In addition to 16FujiDisco comments about children - which are true btw...

The blue tab coolant line release on the passenger side (US) rear crossover is tight even with everything out.
And the hardest bolt on the rear crossover is on the passenger side (US), as I seem to recall it was the bottom one.
Can't imagine actually trying to properly torque that bolt without sufficient access. It was hard enough even with access because of that A/C bracket.

The windshield cowling is a piece of plastic, sure that's easy, but it covers sheet metal and won't get you anything - see attached photo.
If the cowling comes off just replace it with a new one because at 120K miles it has warped and the seal on the windshield has almost certainly failed. Based on owning 3 of these LR4's, that warp spot is repeatably worst on the passenger side (US) just above the scoop for the air intake. Leaks at that point will put water on the passenger floor boards.

Additionally, at 120K the coupling on the SC is shot and needs to be replaced. It is just possible to do that job without removing the SC but draining the oil is easier and more complete when SC is removed.

Hire whomever you want, it's your project. Good Luck!

But...

There is a reason, beyond being enthusiasts, that we do these projects ourselves - that's because there are a lot of mechanics out there that claim they know what they are doing - including at the dealerships - and their work is well, let's just say it's excremental...

Work is complete. No SC removal.

When I picked it up, I questioned him about the cowling removal, saying "isn't it all sheet metal under there"? He said yes, there is sheet metal, but it gives enough clearance to assist with the job.

I also asked about "what tool" he needed but didn't have in order to do the SC removal/front crossover work. He said the "tool" was the alignment pins, not just some torx and sockets.

Not sure why such conflicting opinions on here vs. mechanic about the need to remove the SC. Perhaps things like access under cowling, blind screw access, wiring looms, hard-to-reach release tabs, SC's, etc, are simpler for a professional mechanic with a lift vs. us shade tree mechanics?

Breakdown:

Rear Crossover part: $191.54
Rear Crossover labor: $650

Cooling flush parts: $69.95
Cooling flush labor: $50

 

[Nechaken]

Damn, that's a solid outcome. That said, I can't imagine the front pipe is in any better shape than the rear unless it has been changed recently. At 120K, if you're keeping the car, I'd think you'd want to pull supercharger, do the front crossover, change supercharger oil, and change supercharger coupling.

 

[tj5693]

Never been changed as far I as I know (I’m the second owner). I’ll probably look to a dealer to have that work done (or a different mechanic).

I believe the newer front crossover pipes are metal instead of plastic? Is that true? If so, does that eliminate the issue for good?

 

[16FujiDisco]

I guess where there’s a will, there’s a way. I don’t think I could have been able to do it this way, but good on him.

I don’t consider alignment pins a tool; there are alignment pins on the SC, no need for extras. There is only like 20 bolts holding the SC on; most of those are for the ‘lid’. It’s heavy put I’ve removed/replaced twice by myself.

I agree that you should get the other work done as well. You may check the Jag forums for results on the metal pipes, I’m not sure there has been enough real-world applications to determine if it’s a more permanent solution