cperez
Full Access Member
How much heartache and apprehension could this tip help avoid??!!
Diy timing chain
- Thread starter djkaosone
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
How much heartache and apprehension could this tip help avoid??!!
Checking if your timing chain is loose through the oil filler cap is the easiest way to find out if there is a problem with the tensioner. If the chain has tension on it, it doesn't rule it out as the problem. I also had my wife rev the engine while I was up front and heard the chain slapping against something. So I knew, there was a timing chain issue. With all that said, I'm glad that I was able to quickly troubleshoot the root cause of the issue. I would hate to tear things apart and replace without fixing the actual issue.
Thanks for posting all of this information. Its a great help to all of us! I'm sure I will need to get this done at some point.
Just an FYI folks, you can verify whether or not your vehicle is effected by the TSB LTB00474NAS3: You can call Land Rover directly @ 1-800-637-6837 and speak with a representative. Explain the situation and reference the TSB, then provide the rep with the last eight numbers of your VIN. If this TSB or other TSB's including recalls are associated with your vechicle VIN #, then the representative would see it in their LR computer system and they would tell you so. If not, then you are OK. You can also verify TSB's and recalls by speaking with one of the service reps at your local LR dealer. They have access to the same LR corporate system... However, if you do hear or notice problems/issues with your LR vehicle, then you should just take it directly to the LR service dept or a LR mechanic. Just trying to help. Cheers-
2012 Land Rover LR4 HSE LUX 5.0L V8
Just an FYI folks, you can verify whether or not your vehicle is effected by the TSB LTB00474NAS3: You can call Land Rover directly @ 1-800-637-6837 and speak with a representative. Explain the situation and reference the TSB, then provide the rep with the last eight numbers of your VIN. If this TSB or other TSB's including recalls are associated with your vechicle VIN #, then the representative would see it in their LR computer system and they would tell you so. If not, then you are OK. You can also verify TSB's and recalls by speaking with one of the service reps at your local LR dealer. They have access to the same LR corporate system... However, if you do hear or notice problems/issues with your LR vehicle, then you should just take it directly to the LR service dept or a LR mechanic. Just trying to help. Cheers-
2012 Land Rover LR4 HSE LUX 5.0L V8
avslash
Full Access Member
I have done this, but I have nothing to compare against. Should a properly functioning chain system be drum tight, have some give when depressed, etc?
I get it and it's highly recommended if you have never worked on a vehicle or have any mechanical skills, but I'm sure not everyone has $5000 to change out their timing chains. While I'm doing this on a budget, I'm replacing my fuel injectors with new ones, timing guides, timing tensioners, belts, etc... and it's still costing me $2000+. I'm also working on other things to get it back to spec for better fuel economy. I found lots of other things that needed work. I'm pretty sure LR dealership would just leave the sand in my pistons and send me on my way. Just saying, I'm looking out for #1 and I'm taking my time on it. Going by the book is very vague at best.
The tension should be similar to your accessory belt, where it's tight, but loose enough to press and depress. My chain was LOOSE, I was able to lift it up and push it down like the bottom of a bike chain.
avslash
Full Access Member
[QUOTE="djkaosone, post: 191166, member: 30006"
The tension should be similar to your accessory belt, where it's tight, but loose enough to press and depress. My chain was LOOSE, I was able to lift it up and push it down like the bottom of a bike chain.[/QUOTE]
I might still have some life left yet, then. I had convinced myself that I could hear them for a few seconds on a cold start, but my chain is definitely not as loose as you describe, and I cannot lift it through the oil filler, just depress it a bit.
The ones I have heard that were farther along and had a definite problem (at my indy LR guy's shop) were unmistakable. It was a very apparent knock, knock, knock.
I'm going to continue to acquire the tools and parts, as at some point I'm going to change them so I can stop worrying about it. Mine has 87K on it, for reference.
Thanks again for taking the time to document all of this.
The tension should be similar to your accessory belt, where it's tight, but loose enough to press and depress. My chain was LOOSE, I was able to lift it up and push it down like the bottom of a bike chain.[/QUOTE]
I might still have some life left yet, then. I had convinced myself that I could hear them for a few seconds on a cold start, but my chain is definitely not as loose as you describe, and I cannot lift it through the oil filler, just depress it a bit.
The ones I have heard that were farther along and had a definite problem (at my indy LR guy's shop) were unmistakable. It was a very apparent knock, knock, knock.
I'm going to continue to acquire the tools and parts, as at some point I'm going to change them so I can stop worrying about it. Mine has 87K on it, for reference.
Thanks again for taking the time to document all of this.
avslash
Full Access Member
One more question I had.
Did you use the "crankshaft locating tool" that bolts in place of the crankshaft position sensor "CKP". The service manual seems to imply that you can locate TDC by using this tool. Through inference, it seems like you should only be able to seat this tool and bolt it in place with the crank keyway located at 6:00, and thus #1 at TDC.
It looks like some of the timing tool kits I am looking at include this, and others don't.
Just curious.
Did you use the "crankshaft locating tool" that bolts in place of the crankshaft position sensor "CKP". The service manual seems to imply that you can locate TDC by using this tool. Through inference, it seems like you should only be able to seat this tool and bolt it in place with the crank keyway located at 6:00, and thus #1 at TDC.
It looks like some of the timing tool kits I am looking at include this, and others don't.
Just curious.
Thanks for the write up as it has been great. My 2010 is on original tensioners and at 105k miles is silent, even at a -20 start up the other day. Knock on wood. Frankly at it's age (value) the first hint of chain rattle and she is probably getting traded in or sold (full disclosure of the chains) to a new owner who perhaps want to tackle this very job.
A dealer or garage job is going to cost at least 1/3 of the total vehicles value.
A dealer or garage job is going to cost at least 1/3 of the total vehicles value.
Funny that you mentioned it, because I actually had the tool in my toolset. I just didn't know what it was until after I removed the crank pulley. Again the workshop manual is vague at best. There's no "Timing chain guide". It's all how to remove and install parts, you have to have an understanding of what parts need to be removed, such as cooling, belts, and the actual parts. Oh by the way, if you're renting the pulley puller from Autozone its called, "harmonic balancer puller for GMs".
avslash
Full Access Member
Thanks for the info.
I think I am pretty well sorted to do this, whenever I decide it's time.
My last worry is the passage in the service manual that states something along the lines of, if the crank keyway is located at 9:00 when at TDC, then replace the flexplate.... That would completely be my luck.
