Thanks, my latest front setup is OEM rotors and pads. I will be more diligent and intentional about the bedding process next time. I have to admit that I was so overjoyed by the lack of noise that nothing else seemed important, lol. Of course who knows, by skipping the bedding process I may have just invited early-onset squeaking.
ktm525, i've seen many times these factory maximum spec limits hard to measure due to loose wheel bearings due to normal wear, not cleaned, inspected, repacked or replaced and properly adjusted. Properly adjusted another JMO mouthful of differnt answers be it slightly detectable play, zero play, slight preload to rather high prloaded bearings. Another issue to consider, cone bearing ID to stub axle tube or spindle clearance do to wear depending on mileage how bad as cone bearings creep on an axle tubes or spindles. This issue happens on high mileage vehicles having 95% of the wear on the load side of spindles or axle tubes with no amount of bearing preload removing this issue hence loose wheel bearing feeling. Having replacement stub axle tubes available with new bearings correcting this issue if your lucky. Old NLA replacement parts can be corrected as example on 400 to over 600,000 and higher mileage vehicles. Nickel plating buildup then machining. Talking masking off around but not the worn cone bearing contact areas with lacquer paint making ther rest of the part nonconductive then nickel plate buildup the worn areas then machining down for a snug finger press fit new inner cone bearings onto stub axle tubes or regular spindles. Nickel also a hard bearing surface with high wear resistance. Been doing this type of repair process for over 40 years keeping old iron on the road and steering sharp like new with bearing adjustments maintaining their adjustments on personal and other vehicles of 400 to over a million miles useage. At 53 years and counting the 68 F250 as example like new considering spindles are NLA with used worn. Finding brake pads with material having a lot of grip or grab without eating rotors is an issue with the 95 D1, it doesn't stop worth a damn as if braking with a failed brake booster which has not failed. Pad suggestions anyone????.....~~=o&o>.......
Ceramic pads? Thanks good to know making a note. Didn't the D2's have vented fronts and solid rears? D1'a were solid both ends. Rotors were repaced by PO with plans on keeping the D1 at end of 5/60K lease in 1-2000. Purchased it 1-2000 and had his 7/100K warranty that paid for the 4.6 shortblock. Still running the same rotors having minumum amount of wear with three pad changes. One set squealed so bad you heard me coming 200 yards away, they lasted 1,500 miles the noise issue unless the brakes were good and hot then silent with no stopping improvement. Sonora Pass of 9,600' elevation with 45 to 5 mph twisties for several miles hit the brakes 5-6 times total. With 5 speed downhill braking a lot isn't an issue. Followed a mini Toyota PU with two adults, truck empty smoking the brakes stinking like hell. I'm following without hitting the brakes. On average 45K a set of pads, this in city and local highway mixed driving unless up in the mountains, street only. One thread members installing D90 or D110 rotors and caliphers with original master now pedal down to the floor issues.. They stop better but the pedal issue, no thanks, increased caliper fluid displacement go figure. Something had to give unless there's a master swap that is available?.....~~=o&o>......
I have the same setup. I like them a lot but when off-roading they'll squeal pretty good when exposed to water crossings and mud. More so than the stock setup. I ended up cleaning them real good and smothered that blue anti noise paste from liquimoli on the pads before my latest trip to the mountains and seemed much better...but then again I started to notice the squeak of a bad sway bar bushing. Always something, hahaha
Above posting GreenStuff 6000 making more noise plus they can squeal convinced me to get Akebono pads. Had "organic" pads once that squealed crazy loud attracting attention pissing off wifey ending up her parking the LR. Yup that bad and embarrassing. Lightly sanding rotor surfaces lasted two days at best then squealing again. Not knowing your sway bar mounting material I bet it's rubber. Several people mentioned Poly bushings causing squeaking issues. I switched 100% Poly anyway for the handling plus sharper steering improvements. Before installing anti-sway bars (oversize) at both ends took the bushing straps and added zerk fittings and drilled the bushings allowing silicone grease to get where its needed. Never had squeaking issues others mentioned running Poly vs mushy OEM rubber. No increase in noise, harshness detected plus longer lasting than rubber......~~=o&o>......
